2.3L of fun

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McShagger510
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby McShagger510 » 28 Jan 2017 13:15

Keeps birds out too!

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funwithmonkeys
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby funwithmonkeys » 28 Jan 2017 16:09

Nice. That guy really got stuck in there.
This is what I am using Steve.
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I have a 1/8 piece of rubber that sits behind the cover plate. The cover plate is actually a cover plate for a octagon box that is used in home lighting. The main reason I used to cover the drivers side was to keep as much air going through the radiator as possible. I am in the process of turning it into a proper air intake with all the air from it going directly into the motor instead of just into the engine bay. I should get a ram air effect from it also for an extra few my little ponies.
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RMS
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby RMS » 28 Jan 2017 17:07

if you like those wheels you can keep them..... Im running out of space. have you mounted the 70s markers ?
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby funwithmonkeys » 28 Jan 2017 19:32

Thanks, I will put them in the rack and put them on when I want to smoke. I haven't gotten to them yet. I am hoping to tomorrow.
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby funwithmonkeys » 06 Feb 2017 19:41

Well today I finished up with my ICBC claim. I went into this whole thing expecting the worst from all of the stories I have heard from people. As it turns out I had a really good experience. Don't get me wrong, if I could go back and not have my car hit I would but it turned out pretty good in the end. Tyson at Big Time Motors took really took great care of me. He really knows what he is doing with our old cars and was very helpful and enjoyable to deal with. My car is now better than it was when it went in with new front fenders and valence from Futofab. RMS supplied a core support that was solid and just needed a bit of love to get it into shape to put on my car. Byron supplied a hood that was in great shape and after a bunch of work from Tyson all the parts have a fantastic coat of paint on them.All the body lines and caps are straight and I couldn't be happier. Best of all ICBC covered all the costs of the damage. Thank you to everyone who helped get her back on the road and looking great.

I have now removed the struts and am dropping them off with Byron to be shortened.
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Having the struts out gave me a chance to do a good nut and bolt check. Everything is still tight and nothing is binding through the full range the suspension travels.
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I decided to check how much clearance I have between the roll bar and the T/C rods at full compression and it isn't much but you can see light there.

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The roll bar actually makes contact with the crossmember before it touches the T/C rod.
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I'm thinking I may need to go with a different roll bar mounted below the control arms like what Byron and Keith are using if I want to get the most out of my suspension.
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funwithmonkeys
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby funwithmonkeys » 24 Feb 2017 10:05

I have been playing with a few things on the car. I made myself a dead peddle. It get tiring having your foot dangling out there with nothing to rest on for a few hours at a time.
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I have also been playing with making a cold air intake. I don't know if it will be "Andy Approved" but it should do the job. I took my old ITG filter and removed all the foam, covered it in a couple of layers spandex blend material and applied resin. It turned out pretty good for a first try and still uses the ITG backing plate so I can change back and forth easily in about 15-20 min.
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I used 4" flexible hose to a K&N filter that fits in the core support perfectly where the inner headlight normally sits. There is a grove in the filter that holds it perfectly with no modification needed. I cut a bent headlight mount in half and shaped the edge so it prevents the filter from sliding to the side.

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The filter comes out from the front of the car about 2.5" in what should be a nice high pressure area forcing nice cold air into the carbs instead of sucking the hot air from the engine bay. I know there are some people that will not like what it looks like with the filter sticking out the front but hey it's my car.
There is another benefit to it, my car already has a great intake howl and with this fitted it projects all of that sound straight out the front of the car.
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SteveEdmonton
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby SteveEdmonton » 25 Feb 2017 11:02

Norm, that's neat to see your cold-air intake project. Looks like you've thought it through well and executed it cleanly.

I experimented with a similar system last spring on my SU-equipped L20B. I made a sheet-metal box that fed the air into the "top centre," between the two carbs, by means of a HVAC duct fitting. Flexible furnace ducting (4 inch) for the tube leading from the headlight socket. I thought it looked alright, though naturally opinions on such a matter could well vary.... :)
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I only ended up using this system for about a week though because I found that the "forced induction" aspect weakened the AF mixture drastically. It was fine at very low speeds but, if I recall, already at about 30 mph the mixture just weakened right out (according to my AF gauge). The faster I went the worse it got. I was pumping way, way too much air into the motor for the carbs to keep up with. And since I was already fighting against an over-lean mixture at highway speed, this was a further complication that I just didn't want (or know how) to deal with.

So I went back to my original pancake-type K&Ns and re-installed my fourth headlight. I've still got the airbox though and am thinking about trying again-- actually, with a setup more like what you had until now, I think. That is, I'd let air come in through the headlight opening-- but instead of forcing it all into the air box, I'd keep a gap between the two. The idea would be that the carbs would be able to suck all the cold(ish) air they want, because there's a good supply of it right there, coming right at them through the headlight inlet. But they wouldn't be forced to swallow the entirety of the supply. They could just suck what they want-- not a pressure feed, but an as-needed supply.

Anyway, I haven't tried this approach yet... and it sounds like you maybe haven't tried yours yet either. It'll be interesting to compare notes at both ends (though it will likely be at least a month yet before my car is back on the road, winter being what it is up here).
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bertvorgon
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby bertvorgon » 25 Feb 2017 11:08

I can tell you both that that will work just fine, as you will get TRUE ambient temperature going into the motor. Having monitored all my temperatures over the years, that is the best spot to pick up non-heated air, no brainer there. I know I pick up an additional 30F. from my rad wash down to my air cleaner, that is 3 HP. Most under hood temps will be 100 - 150+ over ambient depending on the day and how hard you have pushed the motor, so you lose density and HP.
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funwithmonkeys
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby funwithmonkeys » 25 Feb 2017 14:02

Interesting that you tried a similar solution Steve. I have been playing with this for a while and made quite a few CAD (cardboard aided design) and tape versions to test the fitment and clearances before I started to actually build something. I also tried one out of sheet-metal but it ended up being almost 10lb where this weighs just about 1lb. I wanted more clearance to the trumpets than the ITG filter had. I got another 1cm the way I have it. I know it works as I have taken it for 1 drive before I dismantled the front suspension but couldn't really get much above 90kph with all the traffic up here when I took it out. My car is normally pretty rich at highway cruising 11-13 on the wide-band and at full throttle it stays at 10 till very high RPM. I think I should have the headroom for all the extra air being jammed in there but I won't know till I get it up to some higher speeds. but at 90 it was not a noticeable change on the wide-band. It may need bigger jets but I will have to see what it does when I get her back in one piece and stretch her legs. At very least I should gain 2-3hp with just the cooler air which puts me into the 180's at the wheels.
I'm currently looking at next winter already and thinking of what to do to improve drive-ability and power. Looking at similarish setups a haltec ecu and injection could give me greatly improved mileage and 10-15hp more. That would also make it easier for adding a supercharger and getting her up into the Bertvorgon power range...that is unless he hits the 300hp this year as he is trying for.
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funwithmonkeys
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby funwithmonkeys » 26 Feb 2017 09:05

I have been working with my electrical system the last 2 days. I finally got around to getting the alternator to bootstrap properly. That was nice and easy to deal with. I noticed that my reverse lights weren't working while checking everything out. check the bulbs and fuse and they are ok so I start to poke around. There are no wires going to the reverse switch on the trans....hmmmmm I remember attaching them when I changed the trans so where could they have gone?? They should come off the wiper motor harness so I look there and can't find them. Hmmmmmmm so I pull out that section of harness and unwrap it thinking maybe they snagged on something and got broke off. Nope they should be red with black stripe but there is no such wire in that leg of the harness. I don't really want to pull out any more of the harness to hunt for wires that may or may not be there. I can't remember where thet came from when I hooked them to the trans as it was 3.5 years ago. Ideas anyone?
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Byron510
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby Byron510 » 26 Feb 2017 12:06

You are correct, the reverse wires are the colour code you mentioned and should come from the wiper motor harness branch as stated. Very interesting that they are missing.

My thoughts to you and Steve on your forced air induction boxes. On carburated applications, it is important to pressurize the whole carb - including the vents for the float bowels, an equal amount. Otherwise the pressure differential will lean out the mixture.
Steve on your SU's the float bowl is separated from the carb, and vented accordingly. Norm; on you car you have twin choke carbs. Some twin choke vent out the back, some into the air filter - some both as I found out when using Webbers at TB's on an IR EFI set up years ago. Often placing the carb in a box - much like Bert Vorgon has done with the turbo set up, is a way to make sure the entire carb is pressurized. This then includes the throttle shaft bearings, which were never designed to be "pressurized" in the first place.

I'm no expert in the field, but this is mention of designing these pressurized systems in the first How to Modify "bible". Just some thoughts to share.

Byron
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two_68_510s
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby two_68_510s » 26 Feb 2017 12:14

My solution, a bit more radical, at least in your work you could reverse it.
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SteveEdmonton
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby SteveEdmonton » 26 Feb 2017 20:09

Byron510 wrote:My thoughts to you and Steve on your forced air induction boxes. On carburated applications, it is important to pressurize the whole carb - including the vents for the float bowels, an equal amount. Otherwise the pressure differential will lean out the mixture.
Steve on your SU's the float bowl is separated from the carb, and vented accordingly. Norm; on you car you have twin choke carbs. Some twin choke vent out the back, some into the air filter - some both as I found out when using Webbers at TB's on an IR EFI set up years ago. Often placing the carb in a box - much like Bert Vorgon has done with the turbo set up, is a way to make sure the entire carb is pressurized. This then includes the throttle shaft bearings, which were never designed to be "pressurized" in the first place.
I'm no expert in the field, but this is mention of designing these pressurized systems in the first How to Modify "bible". Just some thoughts to share.
Byron


Thanks for mentioning this Byron. What you say makes perfect sense. And I know about the how-to-modify "bible" too but never thought of looking there for advice. (Sort of like the 'real' Bible too for most of us... but that's a different story for a different day.) Will have to check it out. I had given up on the force-feeding aspect, but if it's merely a challenge rather than impossible, well then let's see!
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby funwithmonkeys » 01 Mar 2017 19:11

Byron510 wrote:My thoughts to you and Steve on your forced air induction boxes. On carburated applications, it is important to pressurize the whole carb - including the vents for the float bowels, an equal amount. Otherwise the pressure differential will lean out the mixture.
Steve on your SU's the float bowl is separated from the carb, and vented accordingly. Norm; on you car you have twin choke carbs. Some twin choke vent out the back, some into the air filter - some both as I found out when using Webbers at TB's on an IR EFI set up years ago. Often placing the carb in a box - much like Bert Vorgon has done with the turbo set up, is a way to make sure the entire carb is pressurized. This then includes the throttle shaft bearings, which were never designed to be "pressurized" in the first place.

I'm no expert in the field, but this is mention of designing these pressurized systems in the first How to Modify "bible". Just some thoughts to share.

Byron

I have been looking into it and it looks like the only vent is on the filter side of the carb. I found a nice diagram of the whole carb here.
http://rmcarburetors.net/Tuning%20Tips.htm
Hopefully it works but if not the whole thing only cost me about $40 and some time.
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Re: 2.3L of fun

Postby funwithmonkeys » 09 Mar 2017 20:53

I have been putting my suspension back together after Byron shortened my struts for me. It ended up a bit lower than I wanted but that is an easy fix. T3 makes a spacer block for their camber plates that will give me another inch.
https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/510/ ... ber-plates
I should be right where I want to be. I can always add a spacer plate above the camber plate if I need a bit more. It would be easy to make a 1/2" aluminum ring the same dimensions as the top of the strut tower.

I decided to play around with my sway bar some more and see if there is a way I can make it work.
I turned it over and hung it by a bungee cord so I could move it around and try some things. I put the end link bolts in with the bar below the control arm.
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From this view it looks like the ends are a long way below the rim. The center section is in a pretty good spot though.
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As I was sitting on the floor wondering how I can make this work it came to me. I can just cut the end of the bar with the hole for the endlink off. I could take off about 1" or even 1.5" and it puts me about level with the rim.

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If I can find a machine shop to bend the last 5" of the bar up about 30 degrees I am set. Even without the ends bent up I would still be in good shape. I can use a off the shelf end link from something else in the nissan family like this.
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I just need some standoffs which could even be as simple as a couple of aluminum blocks if I can't get them made.
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