2.3L of fun

[Byron510]

You are going to love those gear my friend... except you'll likely need a pair of ear plugs or muffs for our next drive...

It's all good though.

BTW - who assembled your diff fro you?

Byron

[funwithmonkeys]

You are going to love those gear my friend... except you'll likely need a pair of ear plugs or muffs for our next drive...

It's all good though.

BTW - who assembled your diff fro you?

Byron

They are a lot of fun for sure going about 100 kph on the highway it was turning about 4200 rpm....I think I will need something if it's going to be a long drive. Maybe it will help a bit when I put the carpet in.
I got the diff put together at Bert's Automotive on Kingsway. They weren't cheap but they came well recommend. 2 Subaru dealers even recommend them. The guy I was dealing with has built a few 510's in the past. They did all the bearing and seals so I shouldn't have to worry about anything with it for quite a while.

[funwithmonkeys]

I went out for a real drive today. Up to the Sunshine Coast most of the way to the far end then back to Roberts Creek. Everything is working well but my temp gauge is off by a bit. It stays steady at about 7/8 and when I take the temp of the upper hose after a long pull it reads 165-175. I think it may be time to put in the autometer gauges I have in so I can tell what it's really at. Maybe I'll try to get to it in the next week or two along with the electric water pump.

[funwithmonkeys]

I've got a few more things done and found something else to fix.
I got my electric water pump installed. I ran around for over an hour yesterday doing a bunch of long pulls and the highest the temp went was 170F. The pump is a Davies Craig alloy bodied. I also got my mechanical temp gauge installed which works fantastic except for the fact that you need to tap it to get it to move.

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I had some noise coming from the back right side. A kind of clunky grindy sound. I pulled off my half shaft to check the U joints and found that it felt loose in the sliding center section (not sure what you should call that) so I decided to pull it apart and see what was up. It came apart surprisingly easy which I'm guessing it shouldn't. After I removed the clamp on the rubber boot it just slid apart. This is what I found inside.

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I'm assuming there should be an equal number of the plastic pieces.

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I'm also assuming they should be cylinders and not oval and with chunks out of them.

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I would also have to assume the retainer and clip should have been attached to the shaft and that there should not be a chunk out of the shaft.

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[Byron510]

Your assumptions would be correct.

You need another shaft? I'm sure there are some locally if I don't have one.

Byron

[okayfine]

There's also a comprehensive half-shaft rebuild thread here on The Realm.

Might also suggest that if you're beating on the engine and only getting it to 170°, you're overcooling it. I know we all are afraid of overheating, but there are issues with overcooling as well (loss of efficiency/mileage, oil contamination).

[funwithmonkeys]

Your assumptions would be correct.

You need another shaft? I'm sure there are some locally if I don't have one.

Byron

Thanks Byron, I sure could use another one. I do eventually plan on going to CV's but would rather not spend another $900 right now.
If you have one lemme know and I can come and get it.

There's also a comprehensive half-shaft rebuild thread here on The Realm.

Might also suggest that if you're beating on the engine and only getting it to 170°, you're overcooling it. I know we all are afraid of overheating, but there are issues with overcooling as well (loss of efficiency/mileage, oil contamination).

I can run it at a higher temp, I had it running at 175F with a high of 180F after a bunch of long pulls. I have the pump controller set at 165F with my fan coming on at just under 170F. This turns the pump to full power at 165F. Would it be better to run it at a bit higher temp?

[okayfine]

A blind call would say that you could run it a bit higher, but there are umpteen variables. If you wanted the real answer, you'd test with mileage over time at various set points and have your oil sent out for diagnosis at fixed intervals over changes. That's a lot of work and the answer will come at the end of many thousand of miles.

Again, we all err on the side of too cool, for fear of the overheat. More of an FYI than a OMG.

[funwithmonkeys]

A blind call would say that you could run it a bit higher, but there are umpteen variables. If you wanted the real answer, you'd test with mileage over time at various set points and have your oil sent out for diagnosis at fixed intervals over changes. That's a lot of work and the answer will come at the end of many thousand of miles.

Again, we all err on the side of too cool, for fear of the overheat. More of an FYI than a OMG.

I see, I did not know about the oil contamination problem. I am now concerned with mileage and from my understanding cooler makes more power so I went with cooler. Every extra 1/2 hp I get will make a difference running a 1.6.
I appreciate the input. There is always something new to learn.

[okayfine]

Perhaps my definition of low is not quite low enough:

http://www.le-international.com/pdf/068 ... dation.pdf

That paper suggests something like 120°F as being a particular danger point. It may also depend on what oil you use, but most modern oils may well be designed to run in modern engines, which routinely run higher temps for the efficiency and emissions gains.

[Bike papa]

When I had my first totally stock 510. I went from a 180 to a 165 degree t-stat. There was no increase in performance and I dropped about two miles per gallon in fuel efficiency. I put the 180 stat back in. I think the cooler temp has more to do with the air intake and fuel density than the engine temp. In regards to HP

[funwithmonkeys]

When I had my first totally stock 510. I went from a 180 to a 165 degree t-stat. There was no increase in performance and I dropped about two miles per gallon in fuel efficiency. I put the 180 stat back in. I think the cooler temp has more to do with the air intake and fuel density than the engine temp. In regards to HP

Thanks, That's good to know. I think I'm going to run it like this for a couple of tanks then turn it up to 175 and do the same. I'll see if there is any difference and move from there,

[RMS]

I got two shafts sitting here for ya norm and when you break those I have a stack of rear ends we can strip for more

[funwithmonkeys]

I got two shafts sitting here for ya norm and when you break those I have a stack of rear ends we can strip for more

Awesome. Henry and I will probably take a drive to see you tomorrow.

[funwithmonkeys]

I got the new/used shaft from Robyn installed and it is much better. After 30 min driving last night I made a few sharp turns in a parking lot and my diff sounds a bit like a bag of hammers. It only makes noise at very low speeds and only when warm. I did a bunch of reading in the Subaru forums and it looks like I need to add some friction modifier to my diff. I'm going to give that a try Sunday and see if that quiets it down. From what I have read I need to add about an ounce at a time as too much will turn my CLSD into an open diff.