1971 2 Door, L16 --> 2.1 Long Rod --> SR20VE

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Canadian510
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Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby Canadian510 » 30 Oct 2014 13:21

Well talked to TD today and they informed me that they do not insure even slightly modified cars. If i was to even swap out carbs thats grounds for a cancellation, kinda ridiculous if you ask me but it is what it is.

Tried calling around to a few more and it seems that my age is screwing me. One quote where they altered my age by 3 years just to show me what was going on had a $1400 difference in the two costs. Have one place locally that deals with a lot of classic cars that can apparently get me a good price but we'll see by tomorrow

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okayfine
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Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby okayfine » 30 Oct 2014 13:45

Canadian510 wrote:Well talked to TD today and they informed me that they do not insure even slightly modified cars.


Sure they don't :roll:

Had a similar conversation with a stateside insurance company for the DQ article I wrote up. They wouldn't insure my KA510, but then I asked 'em about a hypothetical 350 swap into an original I6 Camaro. Wouldn't you know, they didn't have a problem with that.

Best of luck! You might PM some of the Canada guys here that aren't yet chiming in. They all have insurance, so there are companies out there that'll do it.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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two_68_510s
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Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby two_68_510s » 30 Oct 2014 14:09

okayfine wrote:
Canadian510 wrote:Well talked to TD today and they informed me that they do not insure even slightly modified cars.


Sure they don't :roll:

Had a similar conversation with a stateside insurance company for the DQ article I wrote up. They wouldn't insure my KA510, but then I asked 'em about a hypothetical 350 swap into an original I6 Camaro. Wouldn't you know, they didn't have a problem with that.

Best of luck! You might PM some of the Canada guys here that aren't yet chiming in. They all have insurance, so there are companies out there that'll do it.


Grundy will insure a fully modified (they will do mine bored stroked efi and supercharged) Datsun 510 in California for around $250-300 a year, they won't do anything in Canada however.
Joel

2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
74 Jensen Healey

“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal

Canadian510
Posts: 257
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby Canadian510 » 06 Nov 2014 03:29

Seems I'm getting screwed because of the age of the car as well as myself. One company informed me that because of those two factors I'm put into a high risk category reserved for people with multiple accidents, dui's, and tons of tickets even though i have a totally clean driving record. Found one spot that will insure me for $800 a year which is the cheapest I've come across. Decided I'm not gonna spend that to drive the car for a few weeks before winter so the exhaust will have to wait till spring.

Strongly thinking about starting to prep for paint and take the winter to do the body work then paint it myself once the spring hits. I have everything to take it down to bare metal and start straightening it out so it's a definite possibility. I keep bouncing around for colors but at the moment I'm thinking about a very dark purple found on the r33 Nissan Skyline, but I'll probably change my mind a dozen more times before i actually have to paint it haha

Canadian510
Posts: 257
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby Canadian510 » 11 Nov 2014 11:11

Some more parts arrived today, a set of T3 camber plates that i got for a crazy discount! They have some chips in the powdercoating around the edges (which are hardly noticeable) so T3 was selling them cheap, shipped to my door for under 1/2 price couldn't pass them up!


Now i just need them to chip some coilovers so i can buy them at half price too haha
Last edited by Canadian510 on 15 Nov 2017 17:41, edited 1 time in total.

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okayfine
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Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby okayfine » 11 Nov 2014 13:21

:lol:
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

Canadian510
Posts: 257
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby Canadian510 » 22 Dec 2014 08:16

Haven't updated this for a bit as I've been pretty busy with work. I'm in the process of swapping the webers onto the engine and tuning them, welding up my return spring for the clutch pedal, looking at starting to install my LSD rear end, and have finally started sanding the car in prep for paint!
After a little bit of sanding it doesn't look all that different from my faded paint haha

Image

Also a good buddy offered to sell me his 74 260z which I'm really thinking about. Needs floors and brakes but has a good running engine and for $800 can't go too wrong. Only thing is it might be a 2+2 model which I'm not crazy about. Will wait and see what happens there!

Canadian510
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Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby Canadian510 » 23 Dec 2014 21:16

Got my hands dirty tonight! Decided i really wasn't happy with the front ride height which towered over my rears so i set to work cutting my springs. Before anyone freaks out its a far from permanent mod, just something to get me closer to the stance i want when i eventually get my coilovers so i can troubleshoot wheel and tire fitment. I ended up cutting two coils off and dropped the car a couple inches, a lot more level now!

First strut off and checking the bearings
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Spring off
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How much was taken off. Did one coil at first but wanted a little lower
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How it sits now!
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How it was
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okayfine
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Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby okayfine » 26 Dec 2014 17:21

Cutting coils isn't automatically bad. Easy enough to do the math to figure out how much cutting equals how much drop (and how much stiffness increase). You need a new alignment, but the main problem is punishing stock-length struts into an earlier death.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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bertvorgon
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Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby bertvorgon » 26 Dec 2014 18:15

You should trim the bump rubber a bit also, otherwise you will have lost some travel. I used to leave a 1/2" - 3/4" thick piece, so you never have metal to metal contact.

Just be careful where you drive the car had first, because if you blow through the travel and then hit the bump stop hard, you could have loss of control. You want to know how much of a bump you can hit, or, what sort of hard cornering body roll the car will take, before it tags the bumps stops.

You will feel a "thud" when you hit it.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

Canadian510
Posts: 257
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby Canadian510 » 26 Dec 2014 20:39

Thanks for the info, i removed the bump stops in the rear but haven't touched them up front yet. Decided to lower my rear tonight to see if i could squeeze the 215 60 14 tires on 240z slots (+5 offset if i read correctly) under the fenders and i was actually very surprised when they did. It's crazy close, less then a finger in some places so i still might go with a different tire or wheels just weighing my options.Also ordered some split collars from Fastenall so i can go about making my own "coilovers" by moving the spring perch to bring the front end down some more. Can't wait for them to get here!

A quick pic of the rear

Image

Canadian510
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Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby Canadian510 » 06 Jan 2015 06:25

Got to work cutting my spring perches and am just waiting for my collars to get here in the next few days. Will probably pick up some Mr2 strut inserts and use some spacers as well so i don't blow my stock ones from being lowered.

Image

And the more i look at mesh wheels the more i like them, if i could find a nice set in 14" for a good price I'd probably snap them up right away. They're really growing on me

Image

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okayfine
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Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby okayfine » 06 Jan 2015 08:07

Going to need bump stops front and rear. As Keith notes, metal-on-metal contact is bad. It breaks things, and your spring rate goes infinite which itself will result in a crash if the "breaking bits" isn't already doing it to you.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

Canadian510
Posts: 257
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby Canadian510 » 07 Jan 2015 04:29

okayfine wrote:Going to need bump stops front and rear. As Keith notes, metal-on-metal contact is bad. It breaks things, and your spring rate goes infinite which itself will result in a crash if the "breaking bits" isn't already doing it to you.


If that's the case I'll make sure to throw the rear ones back in when i finalize everything back there, thanks for the info. Also sold my diff yesterday so thinking about either grabbing some rear t3 coilovers and weld on fronts or some wheels. Going to see where i end up with my homemade ones first before making a decision

Canadian510
Posts: 257
Joined: 29 Sep 2013 14:02
Location: Fredericton, NB

Re: 1971 2 Door 70s build

Postby Canadian510 » 08 Jan 2015 07:30

Got my homemade coilovers finished up and put on the car yesterday. Ended up lowering the car a few inches up front but it's still not 100% where I'd like it and i have pretty much no travel now. To fix this I used some of the money from selling my diff to buy a set of rear inserts from a first gen mr2 and weld on coilovers from t3.

This is my first venture into the "custom" suspension world so doing a lot of research before i start cutting or welding anything. One question i do have, is shortening the strut tube as simple as cutting the difference between the stock vs mr2 inserts off of it and rethreading the tops? I know other people have cut the needed bit out of the middle and keep the stock threads but one of mine is pretty chewed up and will need to be rethreaded anyway.


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