Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

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2DoorJim
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby 2DoorJim » 30 Oct 2014 19:42

Jim, if you find you are able to buy some space above the cam sprocket like Julian suggests and you want to proceed, feel free to call me if you need it welded. we can likely blend and dress the welds so it looks stock.

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zKars
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby zKars » 01 Nov 2014 13:41

Thanks for the offer to help with the hair cut and welding. I know you have the most impressive array of sanding and grinding accessories I've ever seen. I think we'll try that for sure.

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zKars
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby zKars » 01 Nov 2014 13:45

Well, just hour before it started snowing here, the shell is home from the paint shop. On time and on budget.

I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.
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zKars
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby zKars » 01 Nov 2014 13:54

Few more pictures of pieces stored inside for now.

This is Valspar single stage polyurethane. No flake. Paint code is Ford U3, Grabber Orange or Valencia depending one which book you look at. The light in these pictures is halogen. Color in the post looks closer to what I see in the sunlight.
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510-Trevor
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby 510-Trevor » 01 Nov 2014 16:33

On time, on budget AND in your garage before the snow. It doesn't get much better.
The car is going to look good when you get it back together. I have a spare hood you can use to check your motor clearance with if you want to borrow it.
1972 Yellow 4dr - 1972 Red 2dr

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zKars
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby zKars » 04 Nov 2014 13:08

Trevor, thanks for the offer of the spare hood, It will make things easier for sure.

Well last night I rolled out that tall bean pole LZ24 and put it next to an L16 I have here, and started looking at differences, both in how the engine mount locations, oil pan, and of course the block height. Seems it came with

So I'm staring at the LZ24 front cover, lookin' at that extra bolt above the one by the dizzy mount, noting how much taller this block is than the L16. Suddenly I says to myself, "that's more than 3/4 of an inch! Hell, that extra bolt is nearly 1.5" above the dizzy bolt !!!! Holy hole in the hood batman! What are these characters talking about, 3/4" my pitoti!

Ok, who's spotted the flaw in my reasoning here? Yes, the LZ24 is a full 1.5" taller than an L16, but... only 3/4" taller than an L20B, which fits under the hood, so you only need 3/4" MORE for the LZ to fit.

While I'm on the topic of fitting, I measured the clearance between the top of the timing chain and the inside of the front cover. Laid a fat roll of modeling clay on the chain, then bolted the cover back on. took it back off and measured the thickness. Guess how much clearance there is? Not much, actually more than I thought. It's JUST under 1/4". The ol' monkey brain crainiotomy won't gain us
much...

Now due to the skew of the engine angle and level top of the valve cover, there MAY be a bit more to be had since the tallest point on the valve cover does not appear to be centered above the apex of the chain, but rather a bit to the drivers side giving a bit more room down to the chain, but still, with some room for oil to splash, can't get much more than 1/4" of gain from this idea I wouldn't think. I suppose I'll have to cut a big skull flap off of a spare valve cover and measure actually clearances if it comes down to that.

The engine mounts holes on the LZ are quite interesting, there are THREE bosses on each side. A pair that match the locations on L16/18/20 blocks and a second one above that. So in theory, I can use the upper holes, which position the mount higher, (and hence the engine lower), and fabricate or "adjust" the stock mount brackets to put the engine wherever I want it in relation to the hood and crossmember.

Then there is the oil dip stick on the driver side nicely hidden under the header, and no cast-in boss on the passenger side to move it to. I'm thinking just a nice long tube and handle extension that puts the top of the tube just up behind the header at valve cover height would do it. Could always put a side mounted dip stick on the pan on the passenger side I suppose.

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okayfine
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby okayfine » 04 Nov 2014 14:31

That's too bad there isn't enough room in the valve cover to bother with. I'd never measured the clearance...but it does make sense that Datsun didn't have a spare 3/4" just sitting there under the cover.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

2DoorJim
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby 2DoorJim » 04 Nov 2014 19:19

Jim, if you find you'd still like to give it a shot we could potentially fill the subject area on the inside of the cover with weld, then you could go to town on the outside, or crainiotomy... If you don't have an aluminum guy you're more than welcome to bring it to me.

I never realized those motors were so much taller. Personally I like the idea of tilting though it does create some other work with trans mount, shift lever etc etc.

First world problems man!

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zKars
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby zKars » 18 Nov 2014 06:38

Progress report

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zKars
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby zKars » 18 Nov 2014 06:42

Starting to modify the engine mounts to get the 3/4" drop.

There are three bosses on the drivers side to attach the mount, only the top two are drilled. The lower pair represent the stock location on a L16/18/20 but the lower one is not drilled and tapped.
Now all three are.

Ask me if there was any stress about how deep to drill....

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zKars
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby zKars » 18 Nov 2014 06:50

Not quite time for these lovely's yet, but have to share

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HudsonMC
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby HudsonMC » 05 Jan 2015 13:12

Did you ever get around to measuring your plywood rotisserie? I need to make one of those... Great idea.

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zKars
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby zKars » 05 Jan 2015 13:29

Aha! Well yes, I measured it to make it, and I still have them around, so I will measure it all and let you know.
I do remember that the 1/4 rotating plywood disks are 24x24 with a 24 inch radius. The only tricky part was exactly where to mount them to the 2x4's that bolt to the bumper brackets so that the side of the car clears the ground when it's on its side.

And I suppose I'm a bit behind in the progress report department. Much has been accomplished, but there is SO much to do. Everything seems like custom cut and fit and we all know how long that takes.

Quick list. Seats chosen, re-upholstered and installed (2002 Acura RSX), Drive line in (still not sure if valve cover will fit the hood, its dang close), A/C bracket and compressor mounted, rear doors on and re-assembled/cleaned/sound deadended, some wiring begun. Pictures pending....

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zKars
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby zKars » 09 Jan 2015 14:06

Alright, I have a few minutes, here are some recent project update photos

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okayfine
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Re: Restoring a '69 510 4 door.

Postby okayfine » 09 Jan 2015 14:20

I can't imagine you'd ever redo that 2-1 merge (so pretty), but if you extend the 2-1 collector (say, down around the tranny mount) you can bump torque up a bit.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson


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