The 510 Realm

Oh sure, NOW he tells me...

Next one I make for sure.....

Wow, looking good Jim. Looks like your pounding some hours into it.

that's beautiful

Thanks for the nice comments. I can't take credit for the TIG'ing on the actual central merge collector, that is a SS Vibrant piece, but the rest I created from scratch. Ok, that 45deg bend is a Vibrant pipe too, but I had to cut it just right and weld it....

Turns out you can use 1 3/4 pipes for the down pipes and only slightly enlarge the end of the manifold to have them fit. Then you use that 1.875 to 2.25 merge collector that fits the pipes, then add the turn, O2 bung and V-vand. Nothing that ~ 5 hours can't create...

And no I 'm not using the narrow band O2 sensor. It was just there for effect.

Nice part - a bit spendy by it sure works.

Did you think about going all SS? Or were there issues?

Byron

dat's da one. I got it for $79 ish from summitracing.

All SS would have been nice, but I got lazy.; and cheap;

The O2 bung is stainless!

Alright, I'm feeling pretty bad about not keeping you guys up to speed with what I've been doing, so....

Let's tell you about one modification I did the other day. I found an alternative to the stock fuel level sender that fits our tank that requires pretty simple modifications. The stock style of sender is well hated in the Z world (same item, just different arm and float config) for being un-reliable and I though I'm not putting up with it any more.

The sender I'm using is from Classic Instruments. They have several styles but this one is the "Best". They come in various common ohm ranges, including one that is very close to our stock sender specs, ie 10-90 ohm. They have a 0-90 that should be pretty darn close.

http://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn36t

The 9" variety is EXACTLY the right length to fit in the 510 tank. It sits exactly the 1/4" off the bottom of the tank that is speced by the manufacturer. The 510 tank has plenty of areas where it could go, but just about dead center on top is fine, or just down and to the right of the vent nipple (on my 69 tank).

I drilled at 1.5" hole, then layed the sender in the hole and used the 5 holes in the rim of it to guide a 3/16 bit to make 5 tiny center punches. Remove the sender, drill out the holes to 3/16 then tap for 10-32 that matches the five brass screws they supply. apply the gasket, then thread the screws in, tighten JUST so. Not much meat in those threads with the thin tank material.

Add some terminals and wire pigtails, and viola. A sender that works, is linear and hopefully STAYS working for a few years.

That's interesting. Couple things. 510 sender is 100-0, so 100E and 0F, which is why grounding the sender wire sends the fuel gauge to F. They seem to only offer the GM 0-90 and say to flip the float mechanism for the Nissan/Toyota ohm range. Did you flip it?

Also, you did the work and not me, but I'd have to think there's not really any threads in the gas tank sheetmetal. It's like 22-gauge. Might pressure-test the tank before installation to ensure the sender is sealing.

The stock sender I have in the tank measures 10-90, not 0-100, but I suppose given the age and wear factor, this may account for the difference.

In my case, I used the 240-33 ohm version, as I will have a Speedhut aftermarket gauge in the dash. I took apart the sender and see how it could reversed for the 90-0 as described. Easy stuff.

I too was concerned with the crappy threads in thin sheet metal problem, but I'm surprised how much torque I can apply to those 5 screws. I tightened them little by little in a nice pattern. I considered using nut-serts, but after the results with a careful tightening and their gasket design, I'm confident the seal is stable. It would be easy to add a ring of epoxy or gas tank sealant to the top if any issues arise.

And some other things that are now completed

HVAC. Vintage air Gen II Mini system install is getting close to completion, at least as far as hanging components and plumbing it. Still have to mount the evaporator in front of the rad and wire it.

Engine bay. Fuel rail in place, throttle cable setup, koyo rad and electric fans and shroud fab done. AC compressor mounted and plumbed.

Power brake booster mounted. Master nice and close to shock tower, lots of room for custom air cleaner assembly. Yet to be fabbed.

And every Datsun should have a silver lining.

Electrical progress.

I've decided to use 280Z column stalk switch gear. This puts wipers, lights, signals and ignition all on the column instead of on the scattered dash switches.

This required some mods the column, as although the 510 and Z columns are nearly identical, they are different in some very important ways, such as the key/ignition being on the other side, length and other minor problems. So I have a hybrid column that has the 280 upper end and the 510 lower end for the best of both worlds.

These mods also mean I can use the 280Z wiper motor and intermittent relay system along with stalk mounted control. Just happened to have a 280z wiring harness to borrow that stuff from

All this fits with the totally new wiring that will built from scratch with new fuse panel, relays (lights, fans etc) and wiring to all components, stock, hybrid from a Z components, and aftermarket like fuel pumps, HVAC, stereo, rear glass defrost etc

I also hung the steering wheel in this picture that I intend to use and show the upholstry on the driver seat. Everything will be light tan/cream in the interior to keep it all fresh and airy.

zKars wrote:And some other things that are now completed

HVAC. Vintage air Gen II Mini system install is getting close to completion, at least as far as hanging components and plumbing it. Still have to mount the evaporator in front of the rad and wire it.

Very neat! Mine has the fan assembly rotated 90 degrees, weird. Must a different model, but I did buy it quite a few years ago. (hate to think how long)

Your fitment is better, no metal cutting required!

Joel:

The Gen II Compaq has the fan 90deg from the Mini. I prefer this fan orientation to the compaq, but prefer the plumbing outet orientation on the Compaq. Had to do some copper line additions to this Mini for the heater lines to get them behind the box and tucked purdy.