The 510 Realm

okayfine wrote:$200 for an Innovate sensor and gauge, unless you want datalogging.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/inn-3845

Thanks for the link, guess you can't get a more classic/retro looking gauge? Once it's been built I'll get it setup on the dyno so it's correct and as I'll be changing plugs all the time I can read the AFRs from the plugs but it would be nice to have na early warning alarm if something goes wrong.

All kinda of gauges, that's just the one I've used most recently.

I too use the Innovate gauge (no data logging ). It uses the Bosch #17014 O2 sensor.

If you are running leaded fuel, the life of the sensor is not that long, depending on lead content. So, you do your testing and if everything is ok, remove sensor, till next modification.

I run 100LL aviation fuel which has quite low lead levels, so I change sensor after about 50 - 60 hours of running time. I could take it out but I like to know when I'm at full throttle, that everything is ok, as you never know if Murphy has decided to stop fuel flow or have a jet back out.....been there.

I don't think they sell leaded fuel in the UK anymore. We can get 100 octane unleaded fuel on tap easily though.

That's great. I see a lot of engines get done, with no real thought to octane requirements.

The success of a project long term is keeping the temps under control, oil and water, and making sure the engine never pings or detonates.

Happy Birthday to me!
Missus RW has given me some currency to buy more parts needed for the Coupe which was lovely.
And also, I was contacted by a guy in the UK who had an L18 out of his truck, he was going to scrap it as he's now running a CA18 and kindly offered to donate it to the project.



It was running when removed, lets hope it's not suffered since removal. Just need the block and cam but it's good to have spares.

Top bloke!

My engine builder has taken my L18 block and cam to be machined and he's told me some bits I should buy.
Agreed that I don't need a full race motor, as good as it'll sound talking on internet forums about XYZ modifications and XXXbhp the reality is, I'd need a more usable power band for my amateur driving and occasional road trips.
I've been told we're going with 86mm pistons and 37mm EX valves, the cam will be machined to a custom spec, everything else will stay the same. While he's doing that, I started stripping the engine bay of paint and removing the battery tray. Nothing worth showing in pictures really as the car is looking like junk at the moment.



And I re hung the body work after I'd finished cutting it up and pushed it back into hiding.



Hopefully, the next update will be something much cooler.

Randy,

These images might be of interest to you (FIA prepared Bluebird SSS Coupe):









Michael

Thanks Michael, I want that head and exhaust on mine!

Speaking of which, things have gone a bit quiet lately due to a house purchase, they're really expensive over here and the tax man is a robbing ****** too. Well, I say quiet, a lot of stuff in the background is happening, just no progress to speak of.

That L18 that I was given is sat in the garage still, I was offered an L18 block and cam from a 510 racer here in the UK so I'm going to use those in this build and keep the L18 as a spare (hope to never need it) as they're so rare over here.

I'm waiting for more parts from Japan, then it's time to get it all bolted together!

Engine will look something like this when done:

L18 block bored out to accept 86mm pistons
Kameari Engine Works 86mm forged pistons
New standard con rods
ARP con rod bolts
WPC main and con rod bushes
W53 head ported, flowed, CCed and other wizardry to make the most of what I have
ARP head studs
Kameari Engine Works light weight big valves (36.5mm exhaust - stock size intake)
Kameari Engine Works 10,000rpm valve springs (with associated hardware)
Kameari Engine Works L4 twin idler
Kameari Engine Works 1mm metal head gasket
Kent Cams custom cam profile to make the most of my setup
Kameari Engine Works L4 intake manifold
OER 45mm DCOE carbs
Kameari Engine Works light weight flywheel
Baffle plate in sump

The engine won't be a full on race engine, it will hopefully make good power and rev freely but also have power through the revs to make up for my lack of driving skills.

I may have gone a bit OTT with the KEW parts. It's an expensive addiction.

Once all that's bolted together I still have hours upon hours of body work to do. Engine bay will have the batty tray removed, I'm going to weld up all the holes and skim the whole engine bay for a clean look. Then I can re fit my engine, figure out a fuel pump, filter, regulator to work with my ATL cell and then see if it starts!

After that it'll be tons of fun finding out if the gearbox and diff are any good, see how the suspension and brakes work (both probably need replacing along with bushes) and eventually get around to the body work.

This time next year?

Just waiting for my last batch of parts to clear customs, my Kameari addiction is spiralling out of control. I'm hopefully going to fit my spare L18 in the engine bay this weekend in-between fixing the broken RX-4, watching football (soccer) and catching up with friends at a gig. Hopefully with the spare engine fitted I can get my custom 4-1 manifold made up ready for when my new engine is freshly built.

A few motivational images to put a rocket up me. Nice to have a classic/vintage race car with some proven history.

The last of the parts from Kameari Engine Works arrived today, they'll soon be delivered to my engine builder so he can finally get around to putting it all together.



Kameari forged pistons





WPC coated bearings, high strength timing chain and light weight, big valved



Metal head gasket and some stickers



L4 Twin Idler gear to remove the spring/plastic timing chain tensioner



This lot, along with my 2 previous deliveries should make a good powered, tractable motor.

My next order will be a new racing distributor, spindle gear, ignition coil, plugs and leads and then get it plugged in to an engine dyno and see what it can do.

Never seen the fancy speed parts that come from Japan, neat stuff!

That timing chain guide and tensioner are pretty cool - I'm going to guess that this is a fixed part, as in the oil pressure doesn't act upon the chain?

Byron

Thanks gooned, I've got a few more parts yet to come Kameari are excellent to deal with too.

Byron, it is fixed yes, you set the tension and forget about it. Weather or not it's worth the cost, I'm not sure. Probably not in my application, maybe more for an all out race engine that'll have the head removed on a regular basis.