Well I figure if I start a build page will try to keep me a little more motivated to do some actual work, beside staring at it and dream of what it will be like when its done.
To start off I picked up the car, a 1971 2 door in oct of 2011. Drove it home and parked it for the winter. I bought it off a kid that need a work truck asap, he had bought it off the owner who had done a very poor job of a restoration. pretty bad body work when you get up close. That guy had owned the car since the mid 80's and converted it form an auto to a dogleg 5 speed. All in all the car is rough around the edges but it ran and everything worked and was pretty well all complete.
I should note that this is my second 510, the first one I bought was when i was 15 in 1995, but it had some much rust that it was pretty well junk. kept a few parts off it that were good like grill, trim, doors, hood some other some parts that I still have today. I have had a love for 510's since i burnt my fingers on the exhaust pipe of my dads when i was just a toddler. I'll see if I can dig up some pics of his old cars.
Anyways back to mine, the guy had painted it mopar plum crazy, not a huge fan but its fun. I drove the car around the summer of 2012 when I was not out of town working and it was fun in stock form but scary as the ball joints and tie rods and stuff were worn out and had a lot of play. In the fall I replaced all of that. I also had picked up off a guy in ontario a full set of troy ermish front and rear coil overs that were brand new that he took off his car that he had just bought because he was going a different route. Installed those and made it look so much better. Then come to spring 2013 and go to get it going and start working on it as I had just spent all winter out of town working. The car wasn't too happy. It had some sort of miss fire going on and I couldn't find the problem. In the fall of 2012 I had picked up a ka24de and tranny out a 91 240sx that the kid had totalled off well attempting some fast and furious manoeuvre. So I knew I was going to do the swap but was planing on doing that in the winter of 13/14. I didn't want to sink a bunch of money into it to get it to run when I knew I was going to be gone all summer again for work. so there she sat. I can give all the usual excesses of work, kids, wife, lazy and I haven't done anything to it till now. to start the swap I first want to get the L16 pulled out and fix the rust on the front end. My plan is (on my dads advice) to not go crazy with some full stripped down resto all at once. pick one part and do that and slowly work on it parts at a time, so I can still drive it and not get burned out on a huge project. On to some pictures!
this is how she look when I first got it.
I picked up these rims off Kijiji, 2 are watanabe and the other 2 black racing wheels which are a knock off almost look the same, see if you can tell which side of the car has which on them
coil overs are in and looking good!
so here is how she sits right now and what I have to tackle.
nice resto work, angle iron welded on all getto like.
So I haven't done a lot of body work in my time but I have done some, I not to sure the best way to take this on. In the wheel wells there are 3 layers but from what it looks like the middle layer is just a small piece that goes from the cross member and up to the front, the outer layer is bulged around it. Has anyone done this same repair on their car before? should i just weld it a thicker piece on the outside to replace the middle section? or do it like it was from the factory. Also what gauge of sheet metal are most people using to do body repairs? I was going to get some 20gauge and maybe some 18 gauge. I have a pretty well all the tools and the time right now so I looking forward to getting some work done.
The Plum
Re: The Plum
Looks like you have a fun project on your hands, but a little dirty work dealing with rust and such. Sage advice from your Dad to bite off one small chunk at a time, keeps the project palatable and driving between keeps up the motivation.
I'm most certain I saw your Dad's 240 powered 510 here in Calgary at a slalom in the early 80s. Red, rear only flares, hood louvres. The guy driving it at the time had longish gold hair, your Dad perhaps? He took me for a spin in the car and I've never forgotten the ride!
I'm most certain I saw your Dad's 240 powered 510 here in Calgary at a slalom in the early 80s. Red, rear only flares, hood louvres. The guy driving it at the time had longish gold hair, your Dad perhaps? He took me for a spin in the car and I've never forgotten the ride!
Re: The Plum
He had sold it before the 80s I think, said it was pushing about 300hp, so I imagine it would pull pretty hard. I have to ask him where he thought it went after him.
Re: The Plum
work is coming along. started on the drivers side cut out the rust slowly.
rust is all gone and looks pretty good inside.
I decided to replicate it like the factory had done it originally, picked up some 16gauge and 18 gauge. made the middle section out of 16 gauge and spot welded it in.
then made a piece out of the 18 gauge to replace the inner wheel well, welding to the stock metal was getting some burn through so it seems like the stock metal is closer to 20gauge not 18. after I took the grinder to it it looks alright but since Ill spray some undercoating on it I not to worried about looking perfect .
Now I have to tackle the hole next to it and contour the metal to fit around the cross member bolt, this will be fun.
rust is all gone and looks pretty good inside.
I decided to replicate it like the factory had done it originally, picked up some 16gauge and 18 gauge. made the middle section out of 16 gauge and spot welded it in.
then made a piece out of the 18 gauge to replace the inner wheel well, welding to the stock metal was getting some burn through so it seems like the stock metal is closer to 20gauge not 18. after I took the grinder to it it looks alright but since Ill spray some undercoating on it I not to worried about looking perfect .
Now I have to tackle the hole next to it and contour the metal to fit around the cross member bolt, this will be fun.
Re: The Plum
I would get some weld 2 primer on those patches and in the frame rail or you could be redoing it in a few years.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
Re: The Plum
After a super busy summer of work, family, mountain biking and 4x4ing I've got back to working on the 510. Finished up the other side of the wheel well patch. Need to start now on the front cross member, but first I need to pull the L16 to get more space and prep for the KA.
Started to strip down my 280zx struts. One of them fell out of the vice as I was dicking around with it and bent in the top and jacked up all the threads I either have to take it to a machine shop and see if they can retap it or I'll just cut off the top part of my old set of struts and weld it on in place.
I also started to clean up the KA24de and did the erg delete, there was a lot of oil/dirt crud build up on it. looks like a new oilpan gasket and front crank seal need to replaced. I might just end up doing the timing chain since I'm pretty sure its never been done. I don't want to sink a bunch of money into rebuilding the whole motor right now. Just want to get it all up and running and have some fun with it.
Started to strip down my 280zx struts. One of them fell out of the vice as I was dicking around with it and bent in the top and jacked up all the threads I either have to take it to a machine shop and see if they can retap it or I'll just cut off the top part of my old set of struts and weld it on in place.
I also started to clean up the KA24de and did the erg delete, there was a lot of oil/dirt crud build up on it. looks like a new oilpan gasket and front crank seal need to replaced. I might just end up doing the timing chain since I'm pretty sure its never been done. I don't want to sink a bunch of money into rebuilding the whole motor right now. Just want to get it all up and running and have some fun with it.
- McShagger510
- Posts: 1821
- Joined: 26 Mar 2004 20:55
- Location: East Van, Canada
Re: The Plum
Go Man Go!
The person with the sun in their eyes has the right of way. - my brother
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
'72 2dr. 510 Turbo
'73 240Z all stock
'71 2dr. 510 stock......for now
'91 Nissan truck *SOLD*
'02 TOYOTA Tacoma
'78 Kawasaki Z1-R
'84 Kawasaki GPZ750 Turbo
'99 Kawasaki ZRX1100
Re: The Plum
Got a small bit of work done lately, finished to 280x coilovers. Cut to treads off an old 510 strut I had kicking around and cut and welded it onto the 280 strut to get rid of the damage threads. Finished welding up the rusty floor board on the driver side, its a pretty nasty hack job and needs some more grinding to clean it up and make me feel a little better about it. The new metal I got was a bit thicker than the original so I was having some trouble with it burning through. Its still miles better that what the previous owner had done, which as cut a piece of metal and used a bunch of self taping screws and some roofing tar to patch it up. Next on the list is the passengers side and make some proper seat mounts.
Untitled by jordan hynes, on Flickr
Untitled by jordan hynes, on Flickr
Untitled by jordan hynes, on Flickr
Untitled by jordan hynes, on Flickr
- two_68_510s
- Supporter
- Posts: 3894
- Joined: 18 Apr 2010 11:20
- Location: Ben Lomond California
Re: The Plum
Looks solid, I second it on the weld through coating on the raw metal on the parts that are hidden (the "back") after welding, the visible overspray of which should be cleaned up and primed before painting. They keep the hidden places from corroding but really aren't paintable primers.
Joel
2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal
2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal