On My Dime

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bertvorgon
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Re: On My Dime

Postby bertvorgon » 11 Jun 2014 15:48

That's why most of us wear ear plugs on our drives, just gets rid of all the buzzy, rattle, busy sounds, and just smooths everything out.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
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Three B's Racing
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Re: On My Dime

Postby Three B's Racing » 12 Jun 2014 07:23

bertvorgon wrote:That's why most of us wear ear plugs on our drives, just gets rid of all the buzzy, rattle, busy sounds, and just smooths everything out.


So true but found yearssss ago that properly installed door glass and weatherstripping plus properly adjusted doors make a hugh difference in that buzzing sound you're talking about. My doors close with a nice solid sound not that ting-ping of a pebble in a tin can sound. Still have a inner dash buzz and annoying exhaust low tone that battles with my stereos subwoofers lows. I should just put my bass amp in the back and play some bass low E and show the exhaust who goes low here.

Lou "If the amp could only fit back there"
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WxMan
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Re: On My Dime

Postby WxMan » 18 Jul 2014 16:09

I've been putting in an hour here and two there whenever possible and have made small progress. Right now I'm working on removing the oil pan to address a small oil leak. I'm going to put in a new gasket and also have a bung welded in for an oil temperature gauge. While I have the crossmember out I'm going to clean it up and repaint it too. Today I finally got the oil pan off and when I looked inside I found this sitting in the front half of the pan next to the baffle :

Image

Now, I'm no expert on the internal working of these engines, but I'm pretty sure that wasn't supposed to be there... :shock:
Russell

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two_68_510s
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Re: On My Dime

Postby two_68_510s » 18 Jul 2014 16:59

chain tensioner spring? You would know though, the chain would be slapping around..... :?
Joel

2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
74 Jensen Healey

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Mattndew76
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Re: On My Dime

Postby Mattndew76 » 18 Jul 2014 18:27

My A12 had the same spring in the oil pan too and when I checked my tension guide it had its spring still installed. It was a different gauge too.
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WxMan
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Re: On My Dime

Postby WxMan » 18 Jul 2014 18:35

I haven't had a chance to check the tensioner but last time it was running there was nothing to lead me to believe there was an issue with it.

Matt, that is really strange. I assume you never did find out where it came from.
Russell

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Mattndew76
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Re: On My Dime

Postby Mattndew76 » 18 Jul 2014 18:37

No sir I never did find out where the spring belongs. I just added it to a cup with ? drawn on the side.

I hope you have better luck :D
An Idea doesn't work unless you do.

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okayfine
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Re: On My Dime

Postby okayfine » 19 Jul 2014 08:20

Easy enough to check by shining a light down the timing chain and verify the tensioner is still in place.

The only other similar spring would be the oil pump pressure spring, but I don't think it's that small OD and there's absolutely no reason for it to be in the oil pan since the pump is external.

The L-series has that gaping front maw once you take the valve cover off, and I'm sure it's swallowed more odd bits over the years than just that spring.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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WxMan
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Re: On My Dime

Postby WxMan » 19 Jul 2014 16:03

After some searching around I'm pretty sure that is the tensioner spring. I had a look down the chain from the top and it is difficult to be sure what I'm seeing but I think the tensioner may not be there. I can see more chain below the guide than I think I should be able to. The side of the chain with the tensioner is quite tight but the opposite side (driver's side/vertical run of chain) seems to have a fair bit of slack. I guess I'm going to have to take the front cover off and find out for sure what is, or isn't going on in there. I was planning to remove the rad to clean it up anyway so I guess it could be worse.
Russell

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WxMan
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Re: On My Dime

Postby WxMan » 15 Jun 2015 12:42

It's been almost eleven months since my last update. Damn, where did the time go? Until recently I've had very little time to focus on my Datsun. I came to the conclusion last fall that the way forward for me was to take the long slow road to something I can be proud of rather than just get this thing back on the road, as much as I want to be driving it. As I plan to keep this car for the rest of my life it makes sense to learn as much as I can and try to do things correctly from the start. I've begun my in depth learning journey by removing the engine from the car. I have no doubt that for most of you this is child's play but it is something I have never done before so it was a proud moment when it came out.

Image

Image

As you can plainly see the engine needs some attention. At the very least I am planning to replace the oil and water pumps and thoroughly clean/refinish most of the rest of it. I'm very much open to suggestion from those in the know of other things I should consider at this point though.

While the engine is out are there any "must do" modifications that I should consider in the engine bay? I was thinking I should at least put in a steering box brace. I imagine that would be much easier now than later. As expected the deeper I go with this project the more I find to do.

For reference, because it has been so long, my goals for this car have not really changed. The plan has always been to build a fun, reliable, L-series 510 and retain as much of the "old school" charm as possible.

As always, thanks everyone for your constructive insights and for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
Russell

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okayfine
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Re: On My Dime

Postby okayfine » 15 Jun 2015 13:12

WxMan wrote:I have no doubt that for most of you this is child's play but it is something I have never done before so it was a proud moment when it came out.


We've all been at the point where we were about to do something we've never done before. That's just life, and the only way forward.

WxMan wrote:While the engine is out are there any "must do" modifications that I should consider in the engine bay? I was thinking I should at least put in a steering box brace. I imagine that would be much easier now than later. As expected the deeper I go with this project the more I find to do.


New front and rear crankshaft oil seals. New pilot bushing and all clutch parts (and make sure the replacements are the same sizes/heights as the parts coming off). Remove the battery tray if you're putting it in the trunk. Run a coat hanger up into the cowl drain above the transmission.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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WxMan
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Re: On My Dime

Postby WxMan » 15 Jun 2015 16:41

Thanks for the tips. I've already got a rear crankshaft seal in my box of new stuff for the car, but I'll be sure to do the front one as well. Regarding the clutch, when I bought the car the previous owner gave me a new roadster pressure plate, clutch disc, and a 200mm flywheel. I'm going to have to source the rest of the parts I'll need for the clutch replacement. I'll probably need some advice figuring out the right size throw out bearing sleeve, etc but I need to learn some more before I go there. Right now I suspect the 4 speed transmission in the car isn't original as the L20b obviously isn't. When I get a chance I'll dig up the DQ transmission ID article and try to figure out what exactly I'm dealing with.
Russell

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finn
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Re: On My Dime

Postby finn » 15 Jun 2015 16:42

Beautiful car, Russ!
'69 2dr KA24DET

okayfine wrote:You could turn the car into a Transformer. Just a matter of money and talent. Front-hinge hood would be easier, but you still need money. And talent.

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Byron510
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Re: On My Dime

Postby Byron510 » 15 Jun 2015 18:35

H(Honestly, the old L20B mill is a perfectly good motor - very tough and reliable. Typically overbuilt for its day and more than up to it's task of putting out 110HP [daily :-) ].

If you’re green to engines, you sure picked the right car. Seriously, the Datsun motor is as simple as it gets for SOHC architecture. Since you are looking at the motor out of the car, and if you don’t know it’s history – I’d re-gasket the whole motor. Head, pan, intake, both crank seals – the works. No better time than now to do it. The two best books to arm yourself with are How to Rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine by Tom Monroe or How to Keep your Nissan/Datsun Alive by Colin Messer. Both are simply great books and they both take the time to not only show you how, but explain why which makes the whole program that much more desirable.

That oil pump looks cast iron – which makes it aftermarket. Certainly deep -ix it. Your replacement should be a high volume 280ZX/KA PU truck pump as they are the same part number and the same cost as the original. The output pressure is identical, but you’ll have more volume at low revs which can only have benefits. Don’t be too quick to write off the water pump in case you were thinking of it. Some of the OE ones will outlast their aftermarket replacements, and the OE cast vanes will flow, and aerate less, than the stamped met teal aftermarket pump blades – identify it, give it a good look while it's right in front of you.

The 4 speed likely is original if someone went to the effort to find a 200 flywheel for your L20B – the 225mm flywheel won’t clear the original L16 4 speed. A 5 spd upgrade is really a matter of personal choice – there is no performance advantage. In fact quite the opposite, the 5 speeds mostly have taller 1st and 2nd gears. But the 5th gear over drive is nice for cruising.
A chage to an internally regulated alternator could be an upgrade worth considering. It eliminates one more box off the inner fender well and puts out a more reasonable 60 amps from the 30-35 amp original unit. However if you are not taxing the original one, maybe this is a non issue.

Having the coolant system and rad well flushed at this point sure goes a long way to making both systems work more efficiently. But I have found recently that radiator shops are a thing of the past. A couple years ago I wanted the heater core boiled out and found that most of the radiator shops are gone. Not too many rad repairs anymore as everything is aluminum and replacement only.

Some thought to get you on your way. We’re really only here to get you further into trouble, but we’ll happily help you along in your long term automotive class  Nice looking car, keep us posted.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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okayfine
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Re: On My Dime

Postby okayfine » 15 Jun 2015 20:05

And when the mech fuel pump goes back on, make sure you have the black plastic spacer between it and the head.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson


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