Noob build

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Tank510
Posts: 34
Joined: 29 Apr 2016 05:16
Location: Vancouver, BC

Re: Noob build

Postby Tank510 » 13 Mar 2017 15:19

Who did the second diagram that's wrong? I've never seen that before.[/quote]

Page 17 of your how-to thread. I missed it when I initially compared the two.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/537-h ... ng/page-17

Tank510
Posts: 34
Joined: 29 Apr 2016 05:16
Location: Vancouver, BC

Re: Noob build

Postby Tank510 » 13 Mar 2017 15:23

icehouse wrote:
Tank510 wrote:So after a week of painful head scratching it FINALLY RUNS! Only for five seconds, then it dies, but that'll be dealt with later. A couple of problems I had:

1. Engine came without Ignition module - didn't realize it and when I sourced one I had spark.
2. Wiring diagram I used had the ECU BUP and ECU LSS ports backwards.
3. Forgot to terminate the starter wire to the ECU

Everything else went well. I bought a fuel pressure gauge to put in permanently and depending on what is causing it to die after 5 seconds I'll just get to spend more money. I'm thinking bad idle air control or fuel pressure.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2Ldtkr ... e=youtu.be

Below are the two reference diagrams for the KA24 CanAm Box, you can see the mixup.

Correct:

CANAM box wiring diagram.jpg


Incorrect (ECU BUP and ECU LSS are switched):

KA simplified.jpg


Next up is to fix the idle, then do an exhaust which will be a huge job, finish the last brake line, bolt up drive and half shafts until I can finally get onto permanent wiring and interior work :)



Who did the second diagram that's wrong? I've never seen that before.


See above

Tank510
Posts: 34
Joined: 29 Apr 2016 05:16
Location: Vancouver, BC

Re: Noob build

Postby Tank510 » 04 Apr 2017 15:14

As luck would have it the new ECU didn't show up till the day I left on vacation. It was probably better that way since the engine still only runs for 5 sec unless the MAF is disconnected or I rev the piss out of it. Made the decision to keep going, just rewire the mess at the front of the motor and then see if it does it once I've done that.

Also, was doing some research on the headers. It's clear that the 4-2-1 is much better for midrange so I'll bite the bullet and spend some time cutting it again and tucking it closer to the body.

On the bright side I found an alternative to replacing the stock heater valve. Not only was my valve push rod broken but the chord was also done. So, the best alternative was to find a 5/8" electric solenoid valve and put it in its place. I'll mount a switch behind the heater controls such that when Heat is selected the switch is pushed in. Similar to a door switch. Cost of the solenoid was $12. Cost of a 620 Valve was $120, new chord unavailable. All it took was two small welds to make it mount in the correct spot, one has to be careful not to make it too hot or the plastic on the solenoid starts to melt.

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Next up was the battery mount. This will go in the trunk next to the sub box. I didn't want to spend the $300 on an optima battery plus the mount, so I bought this one instead for $190 and a $50 uncoated mount. The top was just too tight and didn't have the right step, a bit of work and now it's good. Will powder coat it eventually. To put it in the trunk I'm going to get some square tube, weld square washers to it and weld the tube to the trunk floor in order to elevate the tray. Otherwise it would sit all cockeyed in the back...

Unfortunately I am gone from the shop for two weeks so that'll be it for now.

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