'71 4 Door - Mikuni'd KA24DE

[demo243]

Did some more fab work to fab up brackets and what not.

Had to drill and tap the manifold for the linkage set up from Pierce

IMG_0326 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

TPS sensor bracket -

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Made a throttle cable bracket for the Mikunis -

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And started to Assemble the KA

Realized for some reason I had one set of rings that were the wrong size... not sure how that happened.. but came with the take all deal so whatever... ordered a replacement set.

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Crank In -

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Pistons In -

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Head on -

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All Bolted together

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Oil Pan was done --

Last photo from Ray -

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Showed up packed quite nicely !

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Pick Up -

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Long Block Done!

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More Fab Work for a couple block offs

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Somewhere along the line there was a miscalculation on my part I think and the trigger wheel was slightly off of where I wanted it... got pretty nervous I wasnt going to be able to sensor to line up... but eventually came up with this that should work just fine... and is nice clean and simple.

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Clutch and flywheel on -

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Bolted the trans on and in she went -

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She didnt go easily though.... there are a ton of photos on my Flickr of how off things were... couldnt get the pan to clear with the 510 soft mounts on the lower hole... really didnt like the Mckinney mounts either... also I felt like the engine could have been moved much further back in the bay. I was trying to figure out how I could make a plate or something to adapt it and push it further back.... eventually had Tim one of the NorCal guys cut and reweld the KA hardmounts... He did great work making them away from the engine... you can kinda see them here.

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

[demo243]

Let me take a step back here and say... while the last post makes it seem like dropping the KA in was easy... let me tell you it was not.... Maybe I have a wonky crossmember or I dont know what... but I could not get the 510 mounts to line up on the x-member... I wrestled with it for hours before having Tim make the set back mounts. The other big issue I had, was I really did not like the way to 510 soft mounts were binding up... I ended up going with the Mckinney mounts as they were easier to fit, and I actually ended up having to lift the engine up to clear the pan and the steering bar.

In the future I would like to have some custom engine mounts fab'ed up

It also seems like the trans sat really low with the T3 xmember and then 240/260/280 isolator so I ended up using a energy suspension universal one... although I may go back and try the nissan one again sometime soon.

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Overall was pretty unimpressed with the McKinney Mounts as well as the T3 trans crossmember... Oh well they will work for now...

I ended up doing alot of cutting for the shifter... more then I needed to unfortunately... eventually I will fab or have fab'ed a trans tunnel cover and have it all cleaned up and welded...

I also had exhaust issues... At somepoint I had picked up a used OBX 4-2-1 header based on other peoples reviews... I was able to us a BFH and clearance it for the steering box... but could get the exit to clear the floor board... after some more research I picked up the Megan Racing 2 Piece header. This clears the steering box with out an modifications on my set up as the engine is set back a bit.

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Right now the exhaust is really hacked together and it desperately needs to go to an exhaust shop. The lower portion of the Megan racing header actually fits quite nicely with the catch be that it needs to be rotated about 5-10 degrees... not having the ability to cut and weld it I managed to find a 2" extension that allowed me to rotate it. Then I hacked of the tail end of the OBX header to steel the flange from it, bolted that to the megan lower and then used a bunch of clamps to mate that to the existing exhaust... its HACKED... I know... but I was on a tight deadline to make it work and get it running...

... as Surprise! I was moving back east to Boston and needed to have the car running to be shipped back.

IMG_2203 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

With the motor in the car I was able to take measurements and order a drive shaft. Went custom Aluminum from driveshaftshop.com The guys there were super easy to work with and quick!

IMG_1719 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Also with the engine in I was able to fab up/figure out the mounts for the radiator.

IMG_1546 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Went down to the local O'Reilly and they were nice enough to let me just browse through the radiator hoses. I found two that looked like they could be trimmed and make work. They actually work almost perfectly! Just need a couple adaptors to space down the diameter on the KA side of the hoses.

IMG_1537 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

IMG_1538 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

For those looking for part numbers they are Gates 20380 and Gates 22280.

Also mounted up the Oddessy PC680 on a plate behind the passenger seat. Put a 200 amp circuit breaker on the positive lead under the seat on its way to the starter.

IMG_1140 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

[demo243]

Then I got to wiring... boy was this fun... thanks again for the help from Tim via text tech support he helped me get a few things sorted out (ignition wires and what not...)

I think I said the Highway 13 kit before... but I actually used the Highway 15 kit. Fuse board is nice, the wires seem pretty decent, and plenty long. Most of the connectors however were not used since they are GM connectors. I also got myself a nice stripper and crimper and a whole bunch of the nice 3M heatshrink connectors.

Wiring harness -

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Running wires -

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

IMG_1936 (1) by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Not quite as clean as I was hoping for... but it looks messier then it is. Ended up mounting the fan relay between the megajolt and fuse box. All though need to check on that as I think its buzzing.

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Got most the wiring done, and mounted the coil for the EDIS system on the fire wall in the middle. If I were to do it again (which I would- so much nicer with all the wires being labeled and the same color) I might consider doing one of the fuse boxes with the preconnected wires... doing it that way would force you to bundle the wires first before running them and I think would help keep things cleaner. The other thing I would do would be to just try harder on forcusing on one section of the car at a time. With this kit i bounced around a bit and thats why things got a bit messy.

Also during this time I ran a new fuel line and rear brake line since they got a bit buggered up when putting the engine/trans in. Soft line goes from the tank to a low pressure electric pump in the trunk and then soft line from the pump down through the floor. There it meets up with a hard line that runs from the rear x-member up along the top of the trans tunnel and up along the firewall. There it becomes a short soft line into the low pressure regulator and then out as a soft line to the gauge and carbs - this can be seen in the back corner of this picture

IMG_1912 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Also to be noted there is a oil pressure safety switch on the power to the electric fuel pump - No oil pressure... No Fuel

Also mounted the fan somewhere in there too.. Mishimoto pusher... cant find the photos of it right now though...

Filled the engine with oil, coolant, installed the plugs, loaded a map onto the megajolt, calibrated the TPS, cranked for oil pressure and we were ready to fire!

Went to fire it... nothing... just cranked over... chased a ton of stuff down with no answers... then I finally realised that the Megajolt/Edis was loosing power while cranking... a few texts/calls with Tim and some reworked wiring and we were good.

She fired! Oh yea ... had to swap the plug wires first... Thanks to Duke I had the jets set pretty well for the initial fire on the carbs... but I was having issues with the TPS sensor (still am) it will calibrate and show the full range when the engine is off... but once running it doesnt show any signal anymore...still have to work this out...

Anyway... loaded a flat 10 degree map let it get to temp and everything seemed fine... or so I thought...

Took it for a quick spin around the block - maybe a half mile... maybe... - first turn all was good, second turn all was good, 3rd turn all was good, 4th turn all was good. Went to pull into the driveway, and got stuck cause of the stiff suspension and couldnt make it up. backed out looked down... all was NOT good...

[demo243]

Temp gauge was pegged- I shut her down and opened the hood... but my worst fears happened... you could hear it hissing and see cooling pissing out of the back... but hard to see exactly where as the engine was so close to the firewall... but at this point I figured the HG was blown...

I let it cool for a few hours, went inside... had a beer... had dinner and then went back out. I had to fire it to get back into the garage, but figured if I was quick I would be ok.

Fired it up, back up watching traffic and swung wide to go straight up the driveway... as I was pulling in I could see a look of horror on my wife's face... shut it down and got out to see what was wrong... what I saw was devastating... it had puked all of its oil out on the road and up the driveway... I didnt see it cause I was so focused on the traffic and getting it in the garage...

IMG_1938 (1) by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

IMG_1939 (1) by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

I grabbed a bunch of old shop t-shirts/rags and mopped up as much oil as I could and cleaned off the driveway... called it a night and went to drink some beer...

the next day I went out to find out where it leaked. Engine was fine, pan was fine... all was fine. From the oil splatter I narrowed it down to the filter area... pulled the filter and found this...

IMG_1947 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

I dont think it was the heat... but it could have been... either way the nissan Filters have pretty shitty gasket ... put another filter on (I had lubed both of them before install) and took it off and it did the same thing... did some research and found the Bosche filters have a much bigger and thicker rubber gasket so I will be running those from now on.

Did my best to clean up the oil and got to work pulling the head thinking I had blown the HG.

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Pulled the head and looked at the HG, but all looked fine... couldnt find a break in it... cleaned the head and block got a straight edge and checked for warpness... all was good... thankfully!got a new gasket and put everything back together. I dont think the head itself actually got that hot since all the heat tabs were still completely intact.

Fired it up...

[demo243]

... and it still leaked... only this time I was able to see that it was leaking from the core plug at the back of the head...

So out it came -

IMG_2025 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Pulled the whole engine, but left the trans in... PITA to get the bolts all loose and tight... yada yada yada... but maneuvering the whole engine and trans is also really tough...

Made myself a plug puller with a big bolt and some spare metal I have around

IMG_2024 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Pulled the plug, cleaned the hole, put a new plug in with the aviation gasket maker. Put it all back.

Fired it up... still leaked...

Pulled the motor again, pulled the plug again... cleaned it, installed another one... put it all back together... again... fired it... still leaked...

Pulled the head this time and took it down to the local machine shop. They said they could make a big aluminum plug... but it could be $150+ as it would be custom lathed and would never come out of the head again. He recommended I just epoxy a new plug in and be done with it, cheap and simple.

So thats what I did - I dont think that plug is ever coming out...

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And put it back together... again...

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Luckily for me I had done a favor for a buddy and built a couple of bicycles for him, so he thanked me with a nice bottle of whiskey... really good stuff... it was too late that night to take the car for a drive even if I did get it all back together, so a nice little taste made the pain of putting it all back together a little more bearable... good whiskey... and cheap beer hahahaha

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Back together again!

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Side note here - The stock KA thermostat is in my opinion in a terrible spot... it is before the engine on the rad out/engine in area. Meaning the coolant in the engine needs to heat up and then back track to the thermostat before it opens. If you are running a heater core this isnt really an issue since there is a back flow that allows the coolant to flow to thermostat from the back... but I pulled my heater core and pluged this not realizing the consequences... I think this had alot to do with my original overheating problem, as during the few different core plug replacements I let the engine warm up to temp and it would fluctuate great as the thermostat opened and closed almost randomly.

To counter act this issue I went to an inline thermostat in the upper rad hose ( engine out) - this can be seen in the photo above. This solved all temp issues...

[demo243]

I finished getting everything back together that night and crashed, letting the epoxy cure over night on the core plug.

Got up in the morning added coolant, cranked for oil pressure, and fired it...

NO LEAKS!!!!

Let it get to temp, double checked everything and hauled ass to the DMV to get it VIN verified on the last day of my temp reg.

No issues with the VIN verification, the officer even commented on how nice the engine looked an how I must have put alot of time into it... I chuckled and said you have no idea.... hahahah having pulled the motor/head 3-4 in the last week...

Waited in line to try and get my plates, hoping that I would atleast get in the door before they closed so they could make me an appointment for the next day... unfortunately at this point someone came out and said the system was down and they could not process registrations... said screw it and went home. I wasnt working the next day so I would just got back and sit in line for however long it took to get plates.

Went back the next day... waited in line for over 2 hours (maybe 3?) got in the door, got my number, was served in within 10 minutes and was out the door within 15 minutes of getting my number with plates!

Went home , put the cali plates on and gave the car a much needed bath

FCYU0058 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

And then a wax

IMG_2228 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

IMG_2232 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Then tucked it away and left for three weeks as I went to my wedding and then honeymoon.

Returned to Cali with only 3 days before they picked it up to ship it across the country.

Got a moldable heat shield and cut that out to make a temp closing for the massive hole in the trans tunnel - it works, but I do want to finish it eventually with sheet metal.

IMG_2272 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Then loaded it up... and said good bye... for now...

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Loaded up my truck... and left Cali... Boston Bound! The car was headed to my mom's in CT as she has a garage and space for me to store it there, until we find a place in Boston with a garage or I rent one.

[demo243]

Two weeks later the truck showed up in CT -

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Once again the driver didnt seem to enthused to drive it off... so I took the honors... this one was pretty scary since it was up on the top rack!

IMG_2789 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Safely made it to CT -

IMG_2782 by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

And that is where its stand now. This thread is now current.

There are still a lot of things I need to work out on the car unfortunately...

Currently there is still some electrical work that needs to be done - Battery is not holding a charge, so I need to find the drain, the speedo needs to get connected (connector in the mail), reverse light need to get wired up (connector in the mail), and I need to get the hazards connected (turn signals work, just need to figure out the wiring for the switch).

i also need to determine the TPS sensor issue I am having with it reading when the engine is off but not when the engine is running. Once thats figured out I need to create/upload an ignition map... I have Dukes map but his is for a MAP system and I am running a TPS. I did transfer it to a TPS map, but need to have someone look at it to make sure its still "good"

The wiper motor works, but its not ideal... since the blades stop when switch is thrown (the switch acts as the ground- on or off) but they work.

Then it desperately needs exhaust work, and will likely need a new set of tires as these are getting old.

I also need to drop the oil pan and reseal since I guess my gasket job wasnt good enough... should have done it when I had the engine out of the car all those times for the head... but didnt have the time to spare.

After that I need to start figuring out what else needs to be done to get it to pass the MA safety inspection.... I thought Cali was bad... MA's laws are definitely worse....

Future plans include -
-Redo all the steering components - delrim idler arm, T3 tie rods?, T3 GTX2 LCA and TC rods?, or maybe FutoFabs stuff... not sure yet.
-New custom motor mounts/isolators
-New trans mount?
-Rear crossmember - open up exhaust hole and add adjustment brackets
-Spare tire well delete - I dont carry a spare and it will make it soooo much easier to swap diffs (I currently have a 3.7 open, 3.9 LSD, 4.11 LSD (in the car) and a 4.44 LSD (needs to be tightened up))
-Rear coilovers - possibly QA1s and reinforced upper mount
-New adjustable shocks in the front struts
-13" race wheels (likely the new Rotas) with R compound tires
-Fixed back race seats
-Trans tunnel fabrication to close up the hole
-Rebuild or replace steering box... this one could be tough from what I am reading....
-I would like to bump up to a more aggressive cam... wanted to do PDM.. but seems they may be out of business???


Dont have the money for it right now either... but I would like to eventually pick up a second 510 as well... unfortunately the prices seem to be skyrocketting right now... so well see if that ever happens...

[Byron510]

Wow, what a story. I fully enjoyed it. Thanks so much for taking the time to put all those years into a couple pages for us to read. Not sure about the other board members, but reading about your head freeze plug issue was enough to have me going for my decent bottle of rum!

I’m still running the old school L series motor, with an EFI set up that I built and running an SDS controller. I even went as far as making a pattern for an IR EFI manifold, had them cast and I machined them. If you were closer I’d have been able to help you with your problematic plug, but it sounds like you have it solved now.
Looking forward, I can help you out with the rear IRS adjustable brackets, or contact Dave at Futofab, he’s selling more of my brackets today that I do He’s a great guy, and now closer to you as I’m located on the west coast.
Keep us tuned up on the car, trust we here on the Realm will be able to assist.
Just one thought on the thermostat location. You hit the nail on the head when you mentioned how the removal of the heat core circuit effects the warm up cycle. It was the same on my LZ22. The temps would spike crazy (over 220) and drop back to 160 is a matter of seconds following the thermostat opening. And of course it would close again and start the cycle once more. I can’t imagine what it was doing to the cylinder bores and I was shocked that the head gaskets survived with the different expansion rates of the iron and aluminium. In the end, the fix for me was drilling a by-pass hole in the thermostat itself. This took a lot of playing around, and a lot of thermostats, before I got it right. The hole had to be as big as possible to allow circulation, but not interfere with getting the motor up to temp on cold days. The final solution I feel will be running a bypass to simulate the block circulation that the heater core circuit gave, this would at least let the water run around the motor and not just dead head at the thermostat and go knowwhere untill the thing is just cooking.
Anyways, glad to have you onboard- here’s to keeping these machines going.

Cheers.

Byron

[demo243]

Wow, what a story. I fully enjoyed it. Thanks so much for taking the time to put all those years into a couple pages for us to read. Not sure about the other board members, but reading about your head freeze plug issue was enough to have me going for my decent bottle of rum!
.......
Anyways, glad to have you onboard- here’s to keeping these machines going.

Cheers.

Byron

Thanks!

Its been quite the adventure- but that why I bought a 510! Something easy enough I could go from minimal mechanical experience to building engines and who knows whats next (definitely welding.....) , the whole project has been a learning experience. And the technical knowledge that is available here on the Realm is amazing, if its been done to one of these cars, it more then likely posted here somewhere

My plan is to use your brackets, Ill probably get them from Dave given how close he is. I have a spare crossmember I have been meaning to clean off and work on making for a "quick" swap with minimal down time.

The stock KA Thermostat (I replaced it with the proper nissan one) had a bypass valve built into it, but yea obviously didn't work. I had read of people opening up the hole to allow more coolant to flow, but I was still worried about it not working. As you said the temps were all over the board... intake manifold temps (coolant output) would get super high, then it would open and drop a bit, and then shut with the cold coolant coming it... was such a pain. Probably a good idea to but a bypass hole in the current set up to keep a small amount of coolant flowing - thats a good point.

Progress will likely be pretty slow for a bit... no job since the move so funds are limited, and the car is in a none heated garage so winter work is pretty tough... plus the car is in CT and my tools are in MA... but I am hoping to get the small stuff figured out soon so the car is ready for spring to atleast be able to cruise and hopefully get back into so AutoX with the FCSCC crew.

[TheHeretic]

I also found that the tranny mount (280zx) made mt KA tranny sit lower than I wanted. Have the chevy poly mount that you are using on the shelf but really don't want the extra NVH. How are you finding your mount is in terms of vibration and/or noise?

[demo243]

I also found that the tranny mount (280zx) made mt KA tranny sit lower than I wanted. Have the chevy poly mount that you are using on the shelf but really don't want the extra NVH. How are you finding your mount is in terms of vibration and/or noise?

Very rough... Really haven't driven it much yet, but everything shakes and rattles at idle. Smooths out when driving. Keep in mind I am also running a flat 10 degree map, whether that would effect it or not I dont know.

Ive got a pretty loud whine in 4 and 5th under decel too... which I think is being amplified by them.

I think Im gonna try the Z mount next time the car is up in the air.

Ive got some 1/2" ? maybe thicker ? aluminum bar stock (same metal I used to make my trigger wheel sensor bracket) I might figure out a way to put some longer bolts on it and space down the Nissan trans mount.

[Three B's Racing]

Thanks for sharing that's awesome. I'm in Southern, NH Danville and live about 45 minutes from Futofab Dave in Dunbarton, NH. When your ready to go pick up parts let me know, maybe we can go up together or I can meet you there. It'll be nice meeting another 510er though there are others in Ma, Maine and VT I've never met them.

So you know, the East Coast 510 meet at Summit Point Raceway known as SPEC510 (Summit Point East Coast) plus a lot more are heading to Road Atlanta this year April 27,28,29th for The Mitty, look it up here on the Events page. It would be a great first outing for the 510 and a great way to meet the East Coast gang.

Let me know
Lou

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[demo243]

Thanks for sharing that's awesome. I'm in Southern, NH Danville and live about 45 minutes from Futofab Dave in Dunbarton, NH. When your ready to go pick up parts let me know, maybe we can go up together or I can meet you there. It'll be nice meeting another 510er though there are others in Ma, Maine and VT I've never met them.

So you know, the East Coast 510 meet at Summit Point Raceway known as SPEC510 (Summit Point East Coast) plus a lot more are heading to Road Atlanta this year April 27,28,29th for The Mitty, look it up here on the Events page. It would be a great first outing for the 510 and a great way to meet the East Coast gang.

Let me know
Lou

Thanks!

Not sure I'll get it down to Atlanta with out a trailer... but Ill keep it open as a possibility!

We'll have to get a Northeast cruise together

[Three B's Racing]

Northeast cruse would be fun. Listen, use the Z trans isolator and just shim it until you get your desired trans height. Yeah that poly isolator combined with the engines poly isolators would create a buzz box fer-sure and is what I've always heard. I run the Z trans isolator and stock 510 rubber motor mounts on my SR and it's pretty smooth. I have all of Futofabs front suspension goodies and rear adjusters also, all good stuff and those rear adjusters are the best.

Grab some of these from Whiteline.

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I have no issues replacing the diff with tire well. I removed the diffs cover studs which increases easibility by 100%. Just grab that sucker and slid it up in there then attach moustache bar easy!!!

Diff 2.jpg (361.89 KiB) Viewed 5878 times

and when all finished...

Summit Point watering station.jpg (222.5 KiB) Viewed 5878 times

[demo243]

Northeast cruse would be fun. Listen, use the Z trans isolator and just shim it until you get your desired trans height. Yeah that poly isolator combined with the engines poly isolators would create a buzz box fer-sure and is what I've always heard. I run the Z trans isolator and stock 510 rubber motor mounts on my SR and it's pretty smooth. I have all of Futofabs front suspension goodies and rear adjusters also, all good stuff and those rear adjusters are the best.

Grab some of these from Whiteline.

I have no issues replacing the diff with tire well. I removed the diffs cover studs which increases easibility by 100%. Just grab that sucker and slid it up in there then attach moustache bar easy!!!

and when all finished...

Yea the plan is to try the Z isolator, should help a bunch. The car will always be a buzz box since its gutted... but it should help. I tried using the 510 isolators... but I couldnt get them to line up nicely, and even once I had some set back engine mounts, the angles cause the mounts to compress/stretch beyond what I liked.

Here are some photos - the aluminum plates where there to space the mount up a bit for more oil pan clearance and to help support the mount since it was only on the lower holes - I even tried using some cut axle shims. Unfortunately the angles of the hard motor mounts just dont match the crossmember... as I said before... I want to go with a custom mount eventually anyway. The McKinneys worked well enough and are just a temp isolator until then.

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

Untitled by Devon Mitchell, on Flickr

I do need to go through and replace the rear X-member bushings and mustache bar bushings. Plan is to do all those when I do Byrons brackets. Redo the whole spare rear crossmember and arms (picked up a whole rear subframe in cali), then swap it in.

From my experience swapping diffs (I have a few... 3.7 open, 3.9 LSD, 4.11 LSD, 4.44 LSD) if you use the stock 510 rectangular drive shaft flange it will go in and out pretty easy. But... if you have the circular Subaru one its tough and takes some wrestling... or if you have the newer larger circular Subaru one its impossible. I should probably go CV's at some point, which would make the swap even more painful, so at that point I probably wont be swapping diffs much...