Jeff's '70 2 Door

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slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 04 Oct 2019 17:33

Paddles...

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icehouse
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by icehouse » 05 Oct 2019 18:20

Sam tries to sell me on paddles. I'm like naw, gotta be a shifter. The more things to do the better!
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 06 Oct 2019 21:55

The outside of the shell is now in primer. After 4 years and 22 days rust repair on the shell is complete and the whole thing is sealed...still a ton to do but it feels good.

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Next up
a bit of filler work to touch up rear quarter joins and a few wavy spots on the quarters and roof
strip and repair the doors, hood and trunk and refit to the car to work out panel gaps and align
Finish blasting rear suspension, fit Byrons brackets, paint and re-install
Fuel and brake lines
Re-install front suspension
Roll rear fenders
Sealer
get it rolling to the paint booth for final base/ clear on the outside

Anything else I should be doing while it is on the rotisserie?

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Byron510
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by Byron510 » 06 Oct 2019 22:03

slowerthantime wrote:
06 Oct 2019 21:55

Anything else I should be doing while it is on the rotisserie?
My old frame tells me as much as possible!....

Good to hear another set of my brackets will soon be on the ground. Just sent another set of 5 to Dave at FutoFab. Sometimes I can't believe these are still being sold! How many 510's are left? :-)

Car looks great, and coming along well. Keep us posted.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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abisel
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by abisel » 07 Oct 2019 06:36

What is that black stuff on the underside? Rust proofing, or Rhino spray on tuck bed liner (tough stuff)? If you have already rust proofed the underside, ignore the following paragraph. Otherwise...

If the underside is not rust proofed, leave it on the rotisserie and take to Zeibart so they can apply the undercoating. It would be easier to get to everything if the car is rotated on it's side. With front fenders installed of course. Or you could get the front fenders done separately and the area where the fenders mount coated. And inside the rocker panels (may have to drill a few holes unless they are already there). Zeibart could also apply rust proofing to the back sides of the quarter panels since ii is open with easy access. Bring the doors along and Zeibart can apply rust proofing to the insides.

Then while still on the rotisserie, you could install fuel lines, brake lines, emergency brake cables or whatever you plan to install on the underside.

Good luck with the final assembly. That is where the fun really begins. New or refurbished parts. Bright and shiny fasteners. And take pictures especially if you do take it to Zeibart.

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 08 Oct 2019 12:16

Abisel, thanks for the tip, we don't have Zeibart in this part of the world. The black stuff is a rubberized rocker guard made by Dominion Sure Seal. It seems tough and has a fairly fine texture.

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 15 Nov 2019 17:49

Well, my daily has heated seats but my 510....

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About $25 on ebay and looks like it will work to upgrade my partially functional heater valve.

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JasonLee
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by JasonLee » 16 Nov 2019 09:17

Wow! If that works like the name on the box suggests, I simply have to get one of those also. :lol:
Jason

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 17 Nov 2019 17:28

Lucky for me I haven't run out of rust to fix just yet. Doors, hood and trunk are stripped and ready for repairs and primer. Thankfully nothing too bad.

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I have started putting the suspension back in the car. The click of the torque wrench is really satisfying after this long. I only ran into one small issue with the front suspension. The new ball joint that I had would only mount flat on the botton of the control arm. Because of the thickness of the Futofab arm, this didn't leave enough clearance for the strut bolts. Easy fix..get new ball joints. I will have to replace the smaller ball joint bolts with longer ones.

Front: 300lb Eibach springs, Koni 8611 adjustable struts. T3 Camber plates and RCAs. Futofab LCAs. Futofab swaybay (not installed yet). New balljoints and tie rod ends. Idler arm and steering box brace (not installed yet)

Let me know if you see anything that I have screwed up.

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In a stoke of brilliance I changed the oil in the steering box, installed it then remembered that I still want to tip the car on it's side to do brake/ fuel lines..

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The back end is coming together. Byrons brackets installed with monoball bushings on the trailing arms. Byron, if you see this...do you have recommended torque settings for the bracket hardware?

I also added a bigger exhaust hole for just in case...

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Rear brakes are 280zx calipers on Futofab brackets. The park brake cable mount just contacts the coilover spring. Is there any reason that I couldn't swap the caliper bodies left for right?

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The flagging tape is to remind me to get a bigger torque wrench to check the axel nut and to peen it when I'm done.

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Byron510
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by Byron510 » 21 Nov 2019 01:15

I like it when people are precise

55nm or 40 ft lbs or 486 inch lbs max for the M10’s, again backing off 5-10% here is fine.

100 Nm, 75 ft lbs max for the M12 pivot. Honestly 60 is fine, it’s not going anywhere.

Control arm bolt - M14 x 1.25 - torque time stock spec.

Good call on the exhaust hole, always do that step myself when installing brackets for anyone.

Great work, coming along.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 21 Nov 2019 11:24

Thanks Byron.

My son drew this for me yesterday...that's him under the car in the last frame :)
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icehouse
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by icehouse » 21 Nov 2019 12:26

slowerthantime wrote:
17 Nov 2019 17:28
The new ball joint that I had would only mount flat on the botton of the control arm. Because of the thickness of the Futofab arm, this didn't leave enough clearance for the strut bolts.
Why would you want the ball joint mounted from the bottom?
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 21 Nov 2019 13:13

icehouse wrote:
21 Nov 2019 12:26
slowerthantime wrote:
17 Nov 2019 17:28
The new ball joint that I had would only mount flat on the botton of the control arm. Because of the thickness of the Futofab arm, this didn't leave enough clearance for the strut bolts.
Why would you want the ball joint mounted from the bottom?
It wasn't that I wanted to mount them from the bottom, the ball joints that I had only had one flat mounting surface (really it is concave but allows for 4 even contact points at the bolt holes). The bottom surface of these ball joints are convex and don't sit flat on the top of the arm. I just thought I would give them a try from below before I bought new ones.
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There is a thread on here somewhere that discusses ball joints on top or bottom. The FSM shows them mounted on top but some original installations seem to be from below. I guess because the original pressed metal of the LCA was fairly thin, it didn't effect function. The aftermarket LCA is much thicker and leads to interference with the steering knuckle/ strut bolt heads if the ball joint is mounted below.

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icehouse
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by icehouse » 21 Nov 2019 17:01

HMM From the picture I wouls say the part that isn't touching the ruller doesn't touch the arm anyways. I've never seen any orginal 510 with them mounted from the bottom. I have worked on and parted out lots of old original 510's.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 05 Dec 2019 22:19

I picked up a set of Enkei Compe 15x7 +25 wheels. OK fit in the front with 3/4" spacers.

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Not much clearance to the tie rod end but I can see daylight. Is that enough? The boot on the tie rod just touches the rim...I think I saw Byron fix that with a cable tie.

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Rolled the rear fenders. Hard to tell how much clearance I have as I am still waiting for longer wheel nuts and camber isn't adjusted. I have room to do a bit more if needed.
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I have been messing around with the park brake. 240sx handle is fitted.

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Changed the fitting on the end of the cable so it can be used as a threaded adjuster. The only swage fitting that I could get for 3/16 cable was in stainless with M10 thread. The strainless was too much for my hand swaging tool, so I rigged something up in the shop press. The M10 thread is too big for the stock adjuster set up. I have a plan to make a piece to get me by until I can find a smaller diameter fitting.

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I have butchered a 280zx rear park brake cable to fit in the stock crossmember holes. The routing behind the crossmember will need some sort of retainers to keep the cable out of the way as the suspension moves.

Still waiting for locking plates locking plates for the 280zx cable from Nissan Parts Deal (the only place I could find them).

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I had to shorten the driver's side cable housing and extend the passenger side. When I can find a small enough double swage stub end turnbuckle, I will use it to re-connect the cable/ be an adjuster.

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