Jeff's '70 2 Door

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slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 27 Jan 2019 22:36

The bottom of the strut towers and the front bumper mounts had been patched and were rotting.
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the passenger side went better
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Fixed the internal sway bar brace
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I made a stamp to push out the recess for the cross member bolts. There is a female part but I forgot to get a shot of it. Anyway, with a bit of trial and error it did a reasonable job.
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greenthumb
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by greenthumb » 28 Jan 2019 06:39

nice fab work. Did you heat that before pressing out the recesses, or just big pressure alone? You have access to a large press?

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 28 Jan 2019 11:14

Hey Greenthumb,

I didn't heat it, just used my shop press. My best result was when I bent the base flange then made a relief cut in the bend at the base of the indent before I pressed it. This left a crescent shaped hole where I welded in a patch. See the second last pic.

Jeff

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Byron510
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by Byron510 » 28 Jan 2019 20:35

Great work! And nice detailed shots.
There was a lot of time spent on this repair, we can see that.
Glad to see your skills posted here on the Realm - good motivation for the rest of us!

Keep em coming!

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 29 Jan 2019 14:14

Thanks Byron.

I'm having trouble removing the outer trailing arm bolts.They are stuck in the bushing sleeve. The cross member is out of the car. I've tried force, heat, lube and profanity. Is there a magic technique for getting them out? Get a bigger hammer?

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RMS
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by RMS » 29 Jan 2019 15:30

sometimes the only way is to cut the bolt and replace the bushing. once that vulcanized inner sleeve starts to spin its game over man and you will need to use a hacksaw
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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66DUCE
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Joined: 02 Jun 2012 20:12
Location: Maple Ridge, B.C.

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by 66DUCE » 29 Jan 2019 17:15

You could try an air hammer to knock the bolts loose, but as RMS already mentioned sometimes the easiest way is to cut the bolts with a hack saw burn out the rubber with a torch (do this outside) then cut the outer metal sleeve or press it out if lucky.

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icehouse
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Location: Everett Wa

Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by icehouse » 29 Jan 2019 17:34

My favorite project thread. Not much to read but lots of pictures!
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 29 Jan 2019 19:36

Thanks for the input. I already tried the impact wrench so I will break out the hacksaw tomorrow.

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 01 Feb 2019 10:37

The tail light panel was rusted through at the base. Since I am doing new quarters, I thought I might as well add a new tail light panel to the list.
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Once I had the panel out, the edge of trunk floor didn't look too good, so I decided to replace the edge and a section of the left side for the floor drop.
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I think my mistake in this was using the existing floor as a template. The replacement panel has a different curve. I will wait and see how if fits with the new quarters. Might be have to re-do it.

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 01 Feb 2019 10:48

Thanks to somebody's recent post, I decided to pull the rear axles while the rear cross member was still on the car. They came out easily.
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The Dremel was perfect for cutting away the peened nut.
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slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 01 Feb 2019 11:00

Having the quarter panels off made dropping the cross member a little easier. The cross member seems to be in good shape but the moustache bar has seen better days. The bushing mounts seem to be ovalised. Did a quick test fit with the new Whiteline bushings. I think I need to coax the holes back in to round. Should I weld the opening in the circle when I get it back in to shape?
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I had to cut the inner trailing arm pivot bolts. Will post a WTB for a couple of replacements.

Burning out the old bushings was surprisingly quick.
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two_68_510s
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by two_68_510s » 01 Feb 2019 14:16

Very nice presentation, good work.
Joel

2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX


“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal

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JasonLee
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by JasonLee » 01 Feb 2019 15:54

Good work indeed. You made the axle removal look like it was no sweat.
Jason

slowerthantime
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Re: Jeff's '70 2 Door

Post by slowerthantime » 04 Feb 2019 11:19

I took out the step in the rear wheel house to gain a bit of clearance. Not sure if it will make a difference but it was easier to do it now.
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Started to fit up the back end this weekend. I've had the quarters off about 800 times and I'm not even close. I am fitting new wheel houses, quarter panels, trunk floor drops, trunk gutters, tail light panel and rear valence. These are all Muscle Car GT reproduction pieces as sold by Futofab. The quarters were sourced in Australia.

Hopefully I will never be this deep in the quarters again so I decided to seam seal and paint the inner section.
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So far everything needs to be worked to fit. With a bit of trimming, the quarters seem like they will be ok. In hindsight, I shouldn't have committed to the wheel house position until I had a mush closer fit with the quarter panels. The driver side wheelhouse is a bit too far forward and needs work to let the back of the quarter come up and forward....today's project.

The tail light panel is a bit long (as others have noted) and is also a lot straighter than the original. This might take some work to get it to sit right with the trunk lid and rear valance.

Between setting door gaps, trunk lid gaps, straight supersonic lines, correct width for bumper mounts, working the trunk gutters to fit and a achieving a decent profile on the tail light panel, I have my hands full this week.
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