KA-Z-L-2.1ET... or something.
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- Posts: 301
- Joined: 17 Jul 2005 22:31
- Location: San Diego
- jovial_cynic
- Supporter
- Posts: 628
- Joined: 23 Jun 2003 15:49
- Location: Central Valley, CA
Re: KA-Z-L-2.1ET... or something.
Man... I forgot that I started this thread and just noticed that some people asked about the build back in 2006 and I never got around to responding. I think that's because I jumped ship over to Ratsun for a while. But the engine did progress and actually move into completion. Here's a quick rundown (copied/pasted from my blog). There’s a lot of content, so I’ll break it down into sections.
FYI, I *did* complete this engine build. I think we left off with me not actually having fired it up yet:
11.04.2006: Purchased Roadster clutch kit. I had a spare 6-bolt flywheel that it needed, so I was able to hook it up and drop it into the car.
01.24.2007: Mounted exhaust header, but I had to cut/weld to clear the transmission. I also had to cut a half-inch off the passenger side engine mounting bracket because the valve cover prevented the hood from closing.
02.02.2007: Got tired of having to install and remove the engine over and over again, I build an out-of-car engine bay.
02.05.2007: Swapped starters, and then figured out that the problem wasn't the starter. I connected the ground strap to a spot on the starter that should not have been grounded. Genius.
02.08.2007: Recalculated my assumed compression ratio:
Bore size: 87.75mm (Z22 bored out .75mm)
Stroke: 86mm (L20b crank)
Headgasket bore: 88mm (that's a guess; I just figure it's gonna be 1mm over the stock bore)
Compressed gasket thickness: 1.2mm
Combustion chamber volume: 42.5cc (A87 head)
Piston dish volume: -9.32cc (stock Z22e pistons, but they are shaved down a bit...)
Deck clearance: .2mm over deck (shaved down from .4mm)
The calculator says I'm going to run 9.98:1 CR, which is a bit higher than I originally calculated.
02.13.2007: Discovered that the clutch fork was loose - the throwout bearing collar was too short. I'm glad I discovered this before I put the engine/tranny back in the bay.
02.14.2007: Engine back in the bay, but I found an electrical gremlin. Bad ground in the trunk where the battery lives. Also, hood still hits the valve cover. So I had to take it back out and cut/weld the driver-side mounting bracket as well.
03.04.2007: Diversion... http://www.papercars.net/510.html
03.08.2007: Decided to see if I can address the 15-degree bellhousing twist by swapping it out w/ another bellhousing. This turned out to be futile, so I left it. Ran a compression test:
1: 125
2: 140
3: 140
4: 145
Something is wrong w/ #1...
04.06.2007: Filled up all fluids and discovered a massive leak at the water pump. Turns out that when you take off the water pump, you need to put more liquid gasket on before putting it back on.
04.09.2007: SHE LIVES!!! VROOM VROOM VROOM!!! It took me a little while to figure out that the oil spindle was installed 180-degrees off... but between the rotor under the distributor cap being off and the 510 manual, I figured it out. Lots of tuning needed for the hitachi carb, but it breathed on its own. Actually, it idled like crap, but ran very well when revving the engine. No exhaust hooked up yet, so... very loud.
04.11.2007: First drive around the block. Still no exhaust. Time to make all of the wiring permanent.
04.15.2007: Began exhaust fabrication.
04.17.2007: Discovered vacuum leak at the intake. Fixed.
04.20.2007: SU carbs ordered.
05.14.2007: SU carbs received.
06.17.2007: SU carbs installed.
06.23.2007: FIRED UP! Very loud. Also, I discovered what happens when your coolant lines aren't properly clamped. Coolant everywhere. One unexpected problem: backfire, with flames shooting out of the carb throats. Bad timing?
06.30.2007: Achieved idle. Still backfiring. Also discovered a radiator leak and an overheating issue.
10.25.2007: Picked up an electronic matchbox distributor and installed it. Swapped out the radiator for one I had sitting in my garage in my corner of odds and ends.
11.16.2007: Figured out the wiring for the distributor; I had pos/neg backwards for some reason. Got the engine to run again and decided that I should probably get around to getting the exhaust buttoned up.
FYI, I *did* complete this engine build. I think we left off with me not actually having fired it up yet:
11.04.2006: Purchased Roadster clutch kit. I had a spare 6-bolt flywheel that it needed, so I was able to hook it up and drop it into the car.
01.24.2007: Mounted exhaust header, but I had to cut/weld to clear the transmission. I also had to cut a half-inch off the passenger side engine mounting bracket because the valve cover prevented the hood from closing.
02.02.2007: Got tired of having to install and remove the engine over and over again, I build an out-of-car engine bay.
02.05.2007: Swapped starters, and then figured out that the problem wasn't the starter. I connected the ground strap to a spot on the starter that should not have been grounded. Genius.
02.08.2007: Recalculated my assumed compression ratio:
Bore size: 87.75mm (Z22 bored out .75mm)
Stroke: 86mm (L20b crank)
Headgasket bore: 88mm (that's a guess; I just figure it's gonna be 1mm over the stock bore)
Compressed gasket thickness: 1.2mm
Combustion chamber volume: 42.5cc (A87 head)
Piston dish volume: -9.32cc (stock Z22e pistons, but they are shaved down a bit...)
Deck clearance: .2mm over deck (shaved down from .4mm)
The calculator says I'm going to run 9.98:1 CR, which is a bit higher than I originally calculated.
02.13.2007: Discovered that the clutch fork was loose - the throwout bearing collar was too short. I'm glad I discovered this before I put the engine/tranny back in the bay.
02.14.2007: Engine back in the bay, but I found an electrical gremlin. Bad ground in the trunk where the battery lives. Also, hood still hits the valve cover. So I had to take it back out and cut/weld the driver-side mounting bracket as well.
03.04.2007: Diversion... http://www.papercars.net/510.html
03.08.2007: Decided to see if I can address the 15-degree bellhousing twist by swapping it out w/ another bellhousing. This turned out to be futile, so I left it. Ran a compression test:
1: 125
2: 140
3: 140
4: 145
Something is wrong w/ #1...
04.06.2007: Filled up all fluids and discovered a massive leak at the water pump. Turns out that when you take off the water pump, you need to put more liquid gasket on before putting it back on.
04.09.2007: SHE LIVES!!! VROOM VROOM VROOM!!! It took me a little while to figure out that the oil spindle was installed 180-degrees off... but between the rotor under the distributor cap being off and the 510 manual, I figured it out. Lots of tuning needed for the hitachi carb, but it breathed on its own. Actually, it idled like crap, but ran very well when revving the engine. No exhaust hooked up yet, so... very loud.
04.11.2007: First drive around the block. Still no exhaust. Time to make all of the wiring permanent.
04.15.2007: Began exhaust fabrication.
04.17.2007: Discovered vacuum leak at the intake. Fixed.
04.20.2007: SU carbs ordered.
05.14.2007: SU carbs received.
06.17.2007: SU carbs installed.
06.23.2007: FIRED UP! Very loud. Also, I discovered what happens when your coolant lines aren't properly clamped. Coolant everywhere. One unexpected problem: backfire, with flames shooting out of the carb throats. Bad timing?
06.30.2007: Achieved idle. Still backfiring. Also discovered a radiator leak and an overheating issue.
10.25.2007: Picked up an electronic matchbox distributor and installed it. Swapped out the radiator for one I had sitting in my garage in my corner of odds and ends.
11.16.2007: Figured out the wiring for the distributor; I had pos/neg backwards for some reason. Got the engine to run again and decided that I should probably get around to getting the exhaust buttoned up.
71 510 2-door SR20DET (S13)
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
- jovial_cynic
- Supporter
- Posts: 628
- Joined: 23 Jun 2003 15:49
- Location: Central Valley, CA
Re: KA-Z-L-2.1ET... or something.
01.26.2008: VROOM VROOM again, but this time with the SU carbs. Got the timing sorted.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubYFJYRNWHI
Odd throttle cable hack I put together:
I took the cable wheel off of my old 200sx intake and simply welded it onto the stock primary throttle linkage.
01.27.2008: Tuned the carbs, bled the brakes (yay speed bleeders), and drove it around some more. It's actually pretty fast.
06.17.2008: Tore through the neighborhood a few times. Swapped out the alternator, and discovered a clutch master cylinder leak. Ordered a new one.
06.28.2008: Discovered that SU's need to vent; banjo bolts and what not. Fixed.
10.18.2008: Decided that safety is important. I put the battery into an actual box (instead of having it bungeed down... but now the box is bungeed down), and also put some air-cleaners on the SUs.
10.20.2008: Discovered that the reason my starter would periodically free-spin when trying to start the car was because of a bad ring-gear. I got a new one and swapped it out on the flywheel.
Old:
New:
10.23.2008: Installed the new alternator. No more random 18v voltage spikes!
11.21.2008: Installed the rear window. The car came without any glass other than the front windshield, so I've been getting the glass for it over time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubYFJYRNWHI
Odd throttle cable hack I put together:
I took the cable wheel off of my old 200sx intake and simply welded it onto the stock primary throttle linkage.
01.27.2008: Tuned the carbs, bled the brakes (yay speed bleeders), and drove it around some more. It's actually pretty fast.
06.17.2008: Tore through the neighborhood a few times. Swapped out the alternator, and discovered a clutch master cylinder leak. Ordered a new one.
06.28.2008: Discovered that SU's need to vent; banjo bolts and what not. Fixed.
10.18.2008: Decided that safety is important. I put the battery into an actual box (instead of having it bungeed down... but now the box is bungeed down), and also put some air-cleaners on the SUs.
10.20.2008: Discovered that the reason my starter would periodically free-spin when trying to start the car was because of a bad ring-gear. I got a new one and swapped it out on the flywheel.
Old:
New:
10.23.2008: Installed the new alternator. No more random 18v voltage spikes!
11.21.2008: Installed the rear window. The car came without any glass other than the front windshield, so I've been getting the glass for it over time.
71 510 2-door SR20DET (S13)
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
- jovial_cynic
- Supporter
- Posts: 628
- Joined: 23 Jun 2003 15:49
- Location: Central Valley, CA
Re: KA-Z-L-2.1ET... or something.
02.16.2009: Picked up an O2 sensor and gauge. Not a fancy wide-band one - just one that tells me if I'm lean or rich. I had to plasma cut a hole into the exhaust, weld in a bung, and then put together the wiring.
02.24.2009: Finally got around to fixing a pesky oil leak from the oil pan.
03.15.2009: The alternator fins got too close to my lower radiator hose so it took a bite out of it. Sigh.
I also began experiencing a "blown" slave cylinder. Turns out that the pushrod was adjusted too tightly. Fixed, and problem solved.
04.08.2009: Actually wired up the O2 sensor/gauge. Picked up an electric fan from a junkyard Geo Storm and wired up a circuit for it so that the radiator temp sensor triggers the relay that powers the fan up. Now I have one of those fancy cars, where the radiator fan stays on for a minute after the car turns off because the radiator is still hot. Woo!
Here's the circuit diagram:
05.09.2009: Picked up some Civic seats and new wheels. I had to fabricate up some mounts for the seat, but they're comfortable enough. The wheels are some kind of mesh; I dunno. They were cheap.
09.12.2009: Discovered a sudden weird problem after making some changes in the engine bay. Namely, unplugging sparkplug wires. I installed #2 & #3 backwards and had a heck of a time revving the engine. Spent the day chasing down the timing, the idle, the fuel, etc., for hours until I figured it out.
09.27.2009: Had a pinging issue related to the timing, so I did some research and modified the distributor vacuum advance canister.
09.29.2009: Discovered that a fuel pump spacer exists, but not on my car. I picked one up and installed it and learned that NOT having the spacer had a pretty negative impact on my fuel pump lever arm:
New fuel pump ordered and installed as well.
02.24.2009: Finally got around to fixing a pesky oil leak from the oil pan.
03.15.2009: The alternator fins got too close to my lower radiator hose so it took a bite out of it. Sigh.
I also began experiencing a "blown" slave cylinder. Turns out that the pushrod was adjusted too tightly. Fixed, and problem solved.
04.08.2009: Actually wired up the O2 sensor/gauge. Picked up an electric fan from a junkyard Geo Storm and wired up a circuit for it so that the radiator temp sensor triggers the relay that powers the fan up. Now I have one of those fancy cars, where the radiator fan stays on for a minute after the car turns off because the radiator is still hot. Woo!
Here's the circuit diagram:
05.09.2009: Picked up some Civic seats and new wheels. I had to fabricate up some mounts for the seat, but they're comfortable enough. The wheels are some kind of mesh; I dunno. They were cheap.
09.12.2009: Discovered a sudden weird problem after making some changes in the engine bay. Namely, unplugging sparkplug wires. I installed #2 & #3 backwards and had a heck of a time revving the engine. Spent the day chasing down the timing, the idle, the fuel, etc., for hours until I figured it out.
09.27.2009: Had a pinging issue related to the timing, so I did some research and modified the distributor vacuum advance canister.
09.29.2009: Discovered that a fuel pump spacer exists, but not on my car. I picked one up and installed it and learned that NOT having the spacer had a pretty negative impact on my fuel pump lever arm:
New fuel pump ordered and installed as well.
71 510 2-door SR20DET (S13)
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
- jovial_cynic
- Supporter
- Posts: 628
- Joined: 23 Jun 2003 15:49
- Location: Central Valley, CA
Re: KA-Z-L-2.1ET... or something.
10.12.2009: DYNO!
Decided to assemble an in-car dyno for my 510 so I can finally see what kind of horsepower I'm pulling, using an application that can process a signal coming off the negative terminal of the coil in the engine bay.
The software is an old application called Street Dyno, and from the looks of it, the last available version that can be found online is v0.6.0. I believe that v0.6.8 was the actual last free version available before it went commercial in a v1.0 version, but no trace of that program can be found on the internet at this time.
It looks like v0.6.0 is sufficient; I've been able to pull some consistent dyno runs, and I'm satisfied with the results.
The image shows the results of a couple of runs, one showing 107hp, and the other showing 111hp. I ran the 107hp run out to 5700rpms, but the 111hp was ran to 6500rpms.
10.14.2009: Adjusted the timing just a bit for big improvements. After setting it to 20-degrees, my engine managed to hit 115hp, but if you compare this run with the first set, you'll see that the peak torque occurs a little later in the RPMs. This is the case with all three runs today:
Decided to assemble an in-car dyno for my 510 so I can finally see what kind of horsepower I'm pulling, using an application that can process a signal coming off the negative terminal of the coil in the engine bay.
The software is an old application called Street Dyno, and from the looks of it, the last available version that can be found online is v0.6.0. I believe that v0.6.8 was the actual last free version available before it went commercial in a v1.0 version, but no trace of that program can be found on the internet at this time.
It looks like v0.6.0 is sufficient; I've been able to pull some consistent dyno runs, and I'm satisfied with the results.
The image shows the results of a couple of runs, one showing 107hp, and the other showing 111hp. I ran the 107hp run out to 5700rpms, but the 111hp was ran to 6500rpms.
10.14.2009: Adjusted the timing just a bit for big improvements. After setting it to 20-degrees, my engine managed to hit 115hp, but if you compare this run with the first set, you'll see that the peak torque occurs a little later in the RPMs. This is the case with all three runs today:
71 510 2-door SR20DET (S13)
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
- jovial_cynic
- Supporter
- Posts: 628
- Joined: 23 Jun 2003 15:49
- Location: Central Valley, CA
Re: KA-Z-L-2.1ET... or something.
That's really the last post with that motor. I've since sold that engine and installed an SR20DET that I'm banging on now, L/Z hybrid adventure has come to a close.
71 510 2-door SR20DET (S13)
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
Re: KA-Z-L-2.1ET... or something.
phew - closure after all of this time...
- jovial_cynic
- Supporter
- Posts: 628
- Joined: 23 Jun 2003 15:49
- Location: Central Valley, CA
Re: KA-Z-L-2.1ET... or something.
ha. It was a long journey.
71 510 2-door SR20DET (S13)
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510
------------------
http://www.myagentjosh.com
http://www.newprotest.org/510