woohoo! almost done!

Post by **Byron510** » 11 Dec 2003 07:03

Australia get anything that Japan has much more readily than we do - simply because, like Japan and England, they also have right hand drive. And Sylvia's are sold there (rear drive SR20's) as are some rear drive Nissan delivery vans which have trannies that will bolt to the SR20. All things we don't have. But like theRob mentioned a few weeks ago - we have the KA and it is a pretty dam good motor and they don't get that in Oz or Japan.....

Post by **5teN** » 11 Dec 2003 08:59

Yeah also a thing to throw in the SR vs KA...what about weight?
I guess with the turbo and manifold teh SR isn't all that much lighter??

Post by **jovial_cynic** » 12 Dec 2003 09:24

yeah - and weight is just the thing I want to avoid. don't get me wrong, though... i'd love to drive around a turbo SR, but if it throws off the weight balance too much, I'm not sure I'd want it in a 510. there's just something about light-weight stiff cars, you know?

I used to drive around in a 3rd gen Turbo Toyota Supra, and it was a really strong go-fast car, but it's a big, heavy car. Later, I got my hands on a Mazda Miata, and that thing was AWESOME to drive, just because you could toss it around corners and not feel like inertia might carry you off the road.

i'm still thinking about seeing what kind of numbers I could pull off a turbo napsz2.2, since i've got a turbo and i've got that engine. that'll keep the weight down, and maybe give me a modest push on the road without attracting too much attention.

stuffedbluebird · Post by **stuffedbluebird** » 12 Dec 2003 11:16

correct me if Im wrong, but how does it make any sense that you wouldnt want the weight of a turbo sr motor in a 510, but you have a heavy steel bloc napz2.2 and are thinking of throwing on some heavy turbo stuff??? wouldnt the napz 2.2 with turbo be way heavier than the sr20det? isnt the napz 2.2 heavier even without the turbo???

Boaty · Post by **Boaty** » 12 Dec 2003 12:38

The SR is aluminum ... the Napz isn't... meh...

Post by **5teN** » 12 Dec 2003 15:53

Yeah, what I meant was the KA24e(de) is probably heavier than the SR....but then with the added weight of the turbo etc it might not be as big a differance as initially thought. A turbo NapsZ/Lseries would surely be heavier than an SR20det. I assume they would be fairly close and probably make no noticable difference...

Post by **jovial_cynic** » 12 Dec 2003 17:23

hrm. i ran off the following logic:

1) ka *not* much heavier than SR turbo.
2) ka (which i've owned) is *much* heavier than napz 2.2 (which i own)
3) my turbo isn't too heavy.
4) therefore my turbo napsz 2.2 is lighter than SR turbo

But then again, "not much" to somebody might be "way too much" to somebody else.

Post by **jovial_cynic** » 13 Dec 2003 22:24

well, al davis came by today, and he pretty much wired up the entire car. i'm not so hot w/ the electrical side, since i haven't spent enough time looking at wiring diagrams. anyhow, here's what I've got left to do:

1. mount the fuel pump
2. run fuel lines to pump (from tank and to engine)
3. mount gas tank
4. connect drive shaft
5. put in tranny fluid
6. mount radiator and top off w/ fluid
7. mount battery (cables are already set up for rear battery setup)
8. repair a little bit of rust under the rear passenger side
9. seal up existing floor patch-work
10. drive.

Sure, it's still a lot of stuff, but it's all about breaking it down into bite-sized projects. I personally will have fun with step #10.

68Datsun510 · Post by **68Datsun510** » 26 Dec 2003 00:16

any pics yet???

Post by **jovial_cynic** » 26 Dec 2003 10:09

heh... soon. i'm on vacation right now, out of state. also, the floor-panel portion of the project became a bigger project. the previous owner really did a crappy job w/ the floors (like putting new sheet metal over the rusty area without cutting out the rust first, and then NOT painting the bottom of that new sheet.) i went and picked up an air compressor and a metal shear to cut through the existing metal, and i'm putting in new stuff. lame that i have to do this, but i guess we all have to deal with floor pans... there's no escaping it. heh...

68Datsun510 · Post by **68Datsun510** » 26 Dec 2003 10:36

ahhh who needs em, the eclipse in F&F didnt need em, you should cut em out, you will go faster, especially with NOS!

ajen68510 · Post by **ajen68510** » 30 Dec 2003 18:58

jovial_cynic wrote:I don't have pictures handy yet, but I just wanted to post that I'm inches away from getting my 510 on the road. This is that white 510 that came pretty much as a rolling shell. I've got the napsz 2.2L in it, and Al Davis (local Washington dime-dude) came by and helped me wire most of it up. He's gonna swing by again next Saturday to help with a few final things, and I should have it on the road!

I'm not terribly concerned with getting the interior up to spec yet - I just want to drive it around. Al let me drive around his napsz 510, and it was so much fun to throw it around the corners. By next weekend, I'll be driving around my own 510 after nearly a YEAR of tinkering.

woohoo.

Yea ! I know what ya mean, i drove on a milk crate for the first week mine was running........just watch the clutch snap, i found myself in back seat once or twice !

Boaty · Post by **Boaty** » 02 Jan 2004 15:23

Lmao, Milk crate... would that classify as front, mid, or rear seat driver? I wonder if you could be fined for it, if you actually have a seatbelt!... Hm... Maybe if you put a recarro sticker on that milk crate.. the decreased weight of the chair vs. milk crate... when combined with a tubocharger, ... and NoS, ... you could gain 1/20th foot lbs of torque. With that said, you'd be in competition with the next milk-crate guy.

Clutch snap on a milk crate... Haha, I would've had FUN with that... mehe.

As far as floorpans go, I think If I were to cut out the sides of a milk crate, use duct tape, and a NOS--->INSIDE! sticker, I'd have a bigger performance gain... BUT, only if I attatch a carbon fiber housed green neon ground effects kit.

Enjoy.

datsunfreak · Post by **datsunfreak** » 03 Jan 2004 07:19

The Z18ET inlet manifold is designed for a non-intercooled application (it faces the valve cover), so the Z22E intake should be a better fit. Also, since the Z18ET exhaust manifold is for a RHD car, there could be major problems with steering interference. Plus the OZ guys tell me they crack REALLY easy. Better to build your own.

As far as the CA engine goes, yes our CA18ET/CA20E is junk. But the OZ/Japan CA18DET is a good engine. It is DOHC (not SOHC like ours) and is basicallly a Skyline RB26 engine with two cylinders cut off. It's rumored to be alot stronger than the SR, due to the iron block. And it's smaller physical size makes it about the same weight.

datsunfreak · Post by **datsunfreak** » 03 Jan 2004 07:25

jovial_cynic wrote:lame that i have to do this, but i guess we all have to deal with floor pans... there's no escaping it. heh...

Move to Texas.

Never once had to repair a floorpan.

The 510 Realm

woohoo! almost done!

Re: woohoo! almost done!