My project

Post by **510rob** » 01 Mar 2007 10:49

Here are a couple of easy ignition options that give you control over boost retard to keep things safe.

Crane HI-6TRC (P/N 6000-6466) - click here
MSD 6BTM (P/N 6462) - click here

There are probably others out there, but this gives you something to think about.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... toview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch ... &N=700+115

HEATHEN · Post by **HEATHEN** » 01 Mar 2007 15:02

I have the waste gate found it in a box today. It is a Rayjay. Also the turbo is a Roto-Master. Thanks for the info. You guys have got me convinced to stay with this motor. I am sure my father in law will appreciate me sticking with it also. I took valve cover of everything looks very clean. The cam has an "A" stamped on the back of it. Anyway the waterheater exploded this morning and I need to finish installing the new one. C-Ya

Post by **510rob** » 01 Mar 2007 16:00

Those old Rajay wastegate units are the part that everyone else copied & made little improvements to. The TiAL 35mm & 38mm units, the Turbonetics Deltagate, Deltagate II and Evolution models, the Turbosmart Ultragate, and I would guess others as well...

When you mount that Rajay wastegate, make sure you have the parallel surface ground high nickel plate under the valve that acts like a seal. It is mandatory, and it is NOT a weld flange!!! When you order the install kit for that wastegate, you get THREE plates; two mild steel weld flanges, and one high nickel surface ground plate that acts like the valve seat, plus a pair of graphite/carbon gaskets. The Turbonetics deltagate gaskets are better because they have a fire ring, but that's getting ahead of things for the moment...

It's good to hear that you are going to give the turbo L-series a go...

Post by **defdes** » 01 Mar 2007 16:12

I can't wait for progress, get going already....is it done yet?

Post by **bertvorgon** » 01 Mar 2007 18:01

Yah, I think this is just great! My 1600 ran along just fine for years. Keep it cool, don't ask for more than it can give, learn to drive it, have fun. Having the forged pistons and "O' ringed block is just a major insurance policy, more than I had when I started.

Just take your time when you get it running, to sneak up on the boost. What octane gas can you get there, for your best pump premium? This will be the limiting factor. BUT, I can help you with a simple, easy to build methanol injection system, once you get the car running in it's basic form. I will check my log books and see what a basic timing settng would be a good starting point.

Post by **bertvorgon** » 04 Mar 2007 06:43

I checked back in my archives, but, i realized that we had 98 octane for premium back then, so any of my ignition settings would be out to lunch in this day and age. I ran 11 degrees initial then, with the stock distributor, points to boot.

Get it running, and start with factory type settings. Did your father-in-law say anything about the distributor, is it still points? Ultimately, for best performance, you will want the electronic "black box", and have the distributor re-curved.

HEATHEN · Post by **HEATHEN** » 04 Mar 2007 10:30

Distributer has points,think it is original. 91 octane fuel. I stripped the interior out of it this weekend need to still scrub it clean though. Thinking of removing the dash and pedal assy. Been awhile since I worked on a car. Sure brought back memories of high school. Big diffrence now though is it does not have to run for me to make it to work on Monday. Is there any market for stock front and rear seats?

Post by **rnorrish** » 04 Mar 2007 15:00

the lower picture is of a bumpsteer spacer, despite what T3 calls it.

no it doesn't lower your car - it corrects a bumpsteer problem with our lowered cars by dropping the lower control arm, and in turn the steering knuckle, helping return the steering geometry closer to original.

HEATHEN · Post by **HEATHEN** » 07 Jun 2007 19:36

Its been awhile since I have posted,but I have been working on the car. I recently purchased the wilwood calipers,EDP brackets,and Brembo rotors to add disc brakes in the rear. While removing the rear brakes the project ended up having the entire rear end removed and now I have purchased the R200 Lsd diff. I removed the motor and trans also. I got the rear part of the roll cage installed but need to get the Halo and the Legs bent for it and weld those in before I start reassembling the interior. Got a few questions for you all though.

Have the r200 diff but need to buy stub axles (go into diff) Anyone know a part # or any other ideas?
also need half shafts looking at the cv style,is there any other options?

when purchasing sr20 do I need driveshaft from sr20 too?

Any suggestions on where to buy Sr20det I live in San Diego. Anywhere close?

As allways thanks for your help..

mesojdm · Post by **mesojdm** » 07 Jun 2007 21:57

^ for CV axles for the r200 check out these guys
http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/classified.htm

Got my cv axles for my r200 there.

As far as sr's go I would try sr20store.com or venus motorsports.

-stew

HEATHEN · Post by **HEATHEN** » 08 Jun 2007 06:32

That CV axle kit, it does not come set up to slide into the diff right? Where did you get your stub shafts Stew?

What drive shaft are you using? I read the stock 510 shaft will work?

Has anyone completed the Rack and Pinion swap?

Post by **defdes** » 08 Jun 2007 06:58

HEATHEN wrote:That CV axle kit, it does not come set up to slide into the diff right? Where did you get your stub shafts Stew?
Has anyone completed the Rack and Pinion swap?

Yes, they bolt up to your stub axle flanges.
And someone here is doing an r&p swap, search "projects" I think.

icehouse · Post by **icehouse** » 12 Jun 2007 14:28

I did rack and pinion on my dime, it makes the turbo fit a lot better. It requires a welder though.

The stock driveline will work, it needs to be shortened a bit.

HEATHEN · Post by **HEATHEN** » 27 Jul 2007 20:11

I began this project with a SR motor in mind then spun back to the L16 and Now I am fully focused on doing the SR motor. I recently dropped of the crossmember at Mckinney to have it modified for the motor. Also ordered radiator,turbo cooler, and top mount manifold. Got my cv axles and stub shafts from wolf creek. Ordered the motor today decided to use an S14. I also ordered front coilovers,t/c rods,camber plates,and upper hat. The car had st springs all the way around which I decided to reuse in the rear. I installed the R200 in with the axles and the disc brakes. Still got alot to do but I am enjoying it.

sdterrible1 · Post by **sdterrible1** » 27 Jul 2007 22:24

wow. your car is looking good.
any pics of the new stuff?