New swap-4G63T

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jeffball610
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby jeffball610 » 15 Jun 2010 08:40

I'm starting to run into issues. Small issues being that I need to figure out what to do with things like the clutch slave cylinder. Right where the hydro line goes int, it nearly touches my steering cross link.

I also feel that the oil pan sits way too low. It is close to the front crossmember, but plenty of room for vibration etc. Most of this can be solved by using custom mounts instead of the stock MM mounts. I think I will choose to raise the motor up so I won't have to modify the oil pan. I have plenty of room to move up. The only sheet metal I will need to cut is for the top of the transmission. Right where the R154 shifter is at, the transmission touches the tunnel. Other than that, I have plenty of room all around. This will also give me more room to run the exhaust under the driveshaft for ground clearance.

My biggest issue, however, is the motor itself. I bought this motor about 4 years ago for $150 from a trusted member in Colorado. He told me the motor was being scrapped due to a broken timing belt. The pistons didn't look bad, so I took it. This weekend I pulled the oil pan and front case to do a balance shaft eliminator and noticed some gray material on the pickup screen. There was some in the pan, but mostly just a little coolant that likely seeped in when pulling the head.

I was pulling off the balance shafts, and it looks like the bearing surface is F*CKED! I'll need to dig in a little more and see what's up, but I may need to scrap the motor if the bearings are bad, or if the crank looks like the balance shafts. I know I can find another motor, but why do things like this happen? Things were going so well. :cry:

I'll take some pics for everyone to enjoy.
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons & rods, Garrett GT3076R, "Flipped" Stock Intake Manifold, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs

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okayfine
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby okayfine » 15 Jun 2010 09:11

jeffball610 wrote:but why do things like this happen?


People are idiots. It's either that, or they're malicious. It happens quite frequently, too frequently for it to be simple (bad) luck of the draw. If you didn't at least hear the engine run (or trans, or diff, or verify something electrical works) there's no telling what condition it is in. We all have those moments, since we all deal with used parts, some more than others.

As always, there is a bright side. At least you caught it now. Imagine the added layers of disappointment if everything was ready for that first turn of the key.

...sure, it's not much of a bright side, but hey...
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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jeffball610
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Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby jeffball610 » 17 Jun 2010 15:32

I stripped the block last night to find out what the damage is. Here you go:
(I know these pics are too large for this site. Just click the bottom link to find more pics)
#2 Rod Bearing
Image
#2 Rod Bearing Cap
Image
#2 Crank
Image

This one seemed the worst of all of them. I don't have enough experience to tell if the crank or rods are reusable. I'll get an opinion from Trevtec and see what he says. I will likely have to source another motor. Best case scenario is new bearings, rings and a cylinder hone. I doubt I'm that lucky.

More Pics here:
http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u71/ ... G%20block/
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons & rods, Garrett GT3076R, "Flipped" Stock Intake Manifold, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs

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defdes
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby defdes » 17 Jun 2010 16:26

That's galling, man.

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jeffball610
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Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby jeffball610 » 16 Mar 2011 15:27

So I have some renewed interest in the project. I have everything minus a crank to get this thing going again. I even got a free set of EVO pistons and rods to use. But the biggest news has been the past two days.

I finally got a clutch slave cylinder that should work. I had issues with the previous Toyota unit's hydraulic input source interfering with the stock 510 steering linkage. Now I have a Corolla unit that should work better.

But the best news was this:

Image

Wilwood distribution block with built in proportion valve. I never liked the stock unit setup and couldn't find a 2 into 3 distribution block I liked. This will work perfect as soon as I build a little bracket. Now I can get to building my brakes lines and hopefully get this thing on the road sometime this year. (I hope)
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons & rods, Garrett GT3076R, "Flipped" Stock Intake Manifold, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs

blkdackz1
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby blkdackz1 » 16 Mar 2011 18:09

It's been a while since you posted anything about the car, I was actually thinking about this project the other day and was wondering what was going on with it.

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jeffball610
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby jeffball610 » 28 Mar 2011 15:01

Finally got around to posting pics of my front brake lines. As soon as I finish some work on my Colt, I'll make room to get under the 510 and run the rear lines.

Image
Image

Not impressive, but not too bad for my first try. It needs some tweaking and I'm going to paint all the lines black for protection and to just not be silver.
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons & rods, Garrett GT3076R, "Flipped" Stock Intake Manifold, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs

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andrew.lori
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby andrew.lori » 28 Mar 2011 17:00

Looking good ... :)
1966 Sunbeam Tiger MK1A
1970 Datsun 510 CASC Road Racer ( to be restored )
1972 Datsun 510 SR Monster Sold it
1977 Datsun 200SX
1973 Toyota Celica
1972 Triumph GT6 SCCA Vintage Race Car / Money Pit
1972 Mazda 808 ... 39k original Miles

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jeffball610
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby jeffball610 » 08 Apr 2011 18:38

No pics or real updates, but wanted to let everyone know I'm into full gear now. I'm sitting down with a friend who owns a shop tomorrow to help plan out the last few stages.
I've also been hunting online for tires. Anyone have suggestions? I have 16x7 rims and was thinking maybe a 205/50/16. There's plenty of tires in that range for a decent price. I'm also staring to look at camber plates, but I'll need to price the machine work for custom bump steer spacers. I also have to factor in light machine work on a flywheel, head resurface, wheel spacers and a custom drive shaft. I'll try to map out an estimate of what else needs to be done to get it road worthy. It's a long way off, but with Spring Break in a week and some positive cash flow, I don't see a reason why I can't try to get it on the road by summer. It's been a long 5 years of just sitting, it's time to get it back on the road.
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons & rods, Garrett GT3076R, "Flipped" Stock Intake Manifold, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs

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jeffball610
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Location: Las Vegas, NV

Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby jeffball610 » 21 Apr 2011 16:16

Things are starting to come together. I just got some more parts ordered including a crank, so now I can assemble the motor. But most importantly (for now) I got me some tires! Finally got to mount the TSW Kyalami wheels that I've been lusting over since before I even had this car. I found a set about 8 months ago and now I have tires. These are 16x7 +38 (I think) wheels with 205/50/16 tires. I also have 10mm spacers on all four corners right now. The rear spacers are actually behind the rotors to space the rotor out for the calipers. I think I need the proper turbo calipers on the rear. But as it is, I think there is going to be room for some 225 width tires in the future. I'll need to do some more work on the front before I can decide if there is room for more tire. Enough talk. Here's some pics:

Image
You can see the positive camber here from the S12 V6 struts.
Image
Front is way too high, but I will wait until I get my camber plates to make adjustments to the spring perch. I have a set of springs from Specialty Engineering mounted on 510 perches to the stock location on the S12 V6 struts. They're just tack welded for now.
Image
The rear looks much better.
Image
I cut just a little out of the lip and folded it in. I will make it look much neater when things get closer to the body work stage. And fix that spot full of bondo that cracked For now, they are clear of the tires.
Image
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons & rods, Garrett GT3076R, "Flipped" Stock Intake Manifold, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs

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Byron510
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby Byron510 » 21 Apr 2011 22:12

jeffball610 wrote:Finally got around to posting pics of my front brake lines. As soon as I finish some work on my Colt, I'll make room to get under the 510 and run the rear lines.

Image
Image

Not impressive, but not too bad for my first try. It needs some tweaking and I'm going to paint all the lines black for protection and to just not be silver.


Hi Jeff - good to see progress.
But I have a question - Am I missing something here? Where is the rear brake circuit? It appears that you have the bias valve adjusting one side of the front against the other... or am I out to lunch here? :|
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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vgwagon
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby vgwagon » 21 Apr 2011 22:19

It's there, the two outputs you see are labeled FO and FO, there is an output RO right under the knob.
Denis Gagné
AKA VGwagon

69 510 VG30e swapped
73 240z VG30et swapped
86 300zx na2t VG30et converted

510rob
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby 510rob » 21 Apr 2011 22:22

From Wilwood Website Datasheet for P/N 260-11179

• Maintains full separation between the front and rear fluid circuits when used with tandem outlet or dual mount master cylinder
assemblies.
• Bias proportioning adjustment is provided in the rear fluid circuit.
• The front circuit has a single inlet and two outlets for optional line routing.
• A fluid port with a pressure switch responds instantly to pressure in the front fluid circuit for brake light activation. A wiring pigtail with
a protective boot is included with the switch.


1. The line from the master cylinder for the front brakes connects to the port marked “FI”, (front in), on the top of the combination
valve, refer to Figure 1.
2. The two ports on the bottom of the valve marked “FO”, (front out), will be the supply lines to the front calipers. These ports can be
used to run individual lines to each caliper. Or if preferred, one port can be blocked, and a single line run from either “FO” port to
a “T” plumbed downstream, splitting the lines to feed each front caliper. The function of the valve will not change.
3. The line from the master cylinder for the rear brakes connects to the port marked “RI”, (rear in), on the top of the proportioning
valve.
4. The single port marked “RO”, (rear out), connects to the line going to the back of the car to feed the rear calipers.
Attachments
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Byron510
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby Byron510 » 21 Apr 2011 23:47

OK, thanks Denis and Rob for setting me strait - I didn't think this would have been over looked. :D

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

510rob
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Re: New swap-4G63T

Postby 510rob » 22 Apr 2011 11:16

It's a pretty slick part - it's almost got a kitchen sink.

Byron, it's good that you are always looking for small details - astute eyes save lives!


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