New swap-4G63T

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rnorrish
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Postby rnorrish » 15 Jul 2007 21:29

this is confusing with two Jeffs, especially when one doesn't know that that "icehouse" if a Jeff too.

Jeff, the other Jeff wants a trigger wheel so he can run Mega Squirt (and MegaJolt?) on his Nissan motor.
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
----------------------------------------------------------------------
shardik wrote:My swap will be made of solid gold and it will run on puppy farts.

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jeffball610
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Postby jeffball610 » 16 Jul 2007 14:23

Maybe we should keep the Jeff stuff out and not post that on here. Those posts should be saved for private messages. (PM)

I'm not working with the SR20 either, so most of that info is irrelevant here. It is nice that the SR20 guys started putting engines in 510s though. I never would have thought to reverse the front crossmember for the front sump motors. It's also nice to know that the front sump design is not a drawback on these motors. The drawback to running the 4G63 as apposed to the SR20 is that the 4G63 is an iron block and probably weighs a few more pounds. I'm guessing more like 30+lbs. Fortunately the 4G63 is cheap and plentiful. :D I'm going to start another post on the Z31 R200 that I plan to run. If anyone has any input on that also, look for it in the technical section.

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Byron510
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Postby Byron510 » 16 Jul 2007 20:23

The iron blocks are necessarily that much heavier - The difference between the all Aluminum SR20 and the CA18 DET blocks is negligible The Aluminum blocks have steel liners anyways! - And it's said that the Iron block CA is much stiffer in comparison!

I'd be interesting to know what your short block weighs.

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icehouse
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Postby icehouse » 19 Jul 2007 23:44

wow... I missed alot of good stuff :D sorry about putting the sr stuff in your thread :( It does us mitsu parts though :D I will keep stuff PM's from now on :D
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam

stuffy236

Postby stuffy236 » 21 Jul 2007 12:53

I know you probably already have everything for this swap already, but for people in the future that want to do this swap, if you get the SOHC engine from the mighty max truck, you can use a FC T2 transmission. Swap over a DOHC head and you have a 2.4L 4G63. It's a lot of part collecting, but you dont need to get any adapter plates for the transmission or anything.

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510six
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Postby 510six » 21 Jul 2007 15:53

Image
Shot with 010101 at 2007-07-21

This a pic of the engine in a friends Bonneville land speed AWD Galant 4G63T with a GT40 and 598 whp that just went 198 mph.tHE Mitsu engine is very impressive.

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jeffball610
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Postby jeffball610 » 21 Jul 2007 16:16

What is the FC T2 transmission? (Ford Courier?)

Also, there is a small difference in the truck and car blocks. You need to measure the top two bellhousing bolt holes. There is a wide block and a narrow block. The turbo 4G63 is of the narrow type. However, other than that, the two are externally identical. The 2.4L (4G64, G54b) is only really different in that it has a 6mm taller deck height. There are some other external bolt holes and such, but engine mounts are the same and the DOHC head fits the same.

Also, the 1.8L and 1.6L DOHC engines are nearly the same as well. This is Mitsubishi's small block platform. Nearly every part can be interchanged between them. That's how we can run 2.1L and 2.3L swaps. Run the 1.8L or 1.6L head (smaller combustion chambers) and get higher compression. A stock 2.4L with the 2.0L DOHC head runs compression to about 11.5:1.

And I agree, the Mitsu engines are impressive. Check out Brent Rau, John Shepherd, and David Buschur.

stuffy236

Postby stuffy236 » 22 Jul 2007 06:24

gen II rx7

The mighty max is a "wide" block 4g63 which has a "Type-R" transmission. Check out this build thread for more info: http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-techni ... e-out.html

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jeffball610
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Postby jeffball610 » 22 Jul 2007 13:51

Pretty cool FC project. The Type R transmission did not come with the Mighty Max. However, the Mazda B2600 pickup truck came with the Mitsubishi 2.6L G54B. Mazda made a bolt on bellhousing for the Type R transmission (found in the B2600 and RX-7 turbo) that mates to the 2.6L and wide block 4G63 or 4G64. The only issue with this is that you must build a turbo motor from the wide block engine. Adding (at the very least) turbo pistons and piston oil squirters to make it a turbo block. Could be cheaper to do that than order a custom bellhousing like I'm using. Or if you were planning to build the motor up anyway, you could use the wide block. The Type R transmission is pretty nice. It was designed to shift at the higher RPMs that the 13B runs at.

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jeffball610
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Postby jeffball610 » 05 Jan 2008 18:27

I got my custom bellhousing a while back and haven't test fitted the tranny and block in the car yet. I also got my intake manifold today and it's going to be a very tight fit around the brake master cylinder if it fits at all. I measured about 13" from the middle of my engine to the outer edge of the intake. It should fit between the shock towers at least.

Also picked up a set of 200SX hubs and Toyota calipers. I'll see what kind of issues that might come up with this swap, but everything seems to go together so far. Hopefully I'll get the tranny test fit and see if I have to cut the tunnel. I'll also refit the motor and see if this intake will work or if I have to source another option. I really hope not cause this thing is B-E-A utiful.

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thisismatt
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Postby thisismatt » 05 Jan 2008 19:02

You could always do reverse mount pedals and have them completely inside the cabin. I think byron has them (tilton?) - check his project thread out.
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jeffball610
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Postby jeffball610 » 10 Jan 2008 11:21

I'm not sure if this strut/brake combo is going to work very well. I got the Toyota brake calipers mocked up on the strut and some minor fitting will be required. The calipers do not mount directly to the strut and are offset to the inside slightly. I'm sure I could fix the offset and mount them without much issue, but I can only fit the stock 200SX 10" (or slightly smaller) vented disk on the hub. 10" would be fine, but 11" would be better.

I thought the 280ZX (or other) could fit the larger disk size. I can definitely get my hands on some 4 lug Z31 struts and some other Z struts (not ZX). I'll start measuring these struts to see which ones will work best. I might just stick with the 200SX units I have, but figured I could explore other options. I'd really like to stick with these calipers for now based on price and how well they "should" perform. I also have a set of Maxima rear disks to match these front calipers.

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Postby 510rob » 10 Jan 2008 12:05

Jeffball,

I saw this the other day and it kind of floored me - Cosworth seems to have decided to make full-tilt 4G63 stuff, like CNC ported heads...

http://www.cosworth.com/shop_range.php?typeid=43

Its no wonder these motors are running so well if shops like Cossie are getting in on the action!

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jeffball610
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Postby jeffball610 » 14 Jan 2008 09:20

It's unfortunate that most of Cosworth's parts are made for the EVO and not the Eclipse/Talon that most of my parts come from. I do wonder what parts will still work with the older engines though. Mitsubishi's 4G63 is like the Chevy Small Block. It's parts are very interchangeable within the series and can be built to take on huge amounts of power. If you want more info on the motor and it's community, just do a google search and you won't run out of links for forums, tuning shops and projects. I've got no less then 12 bookmark tabs for 4G63 resources on my browser.

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jeffball610
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Postby jeffball610 » 24 Jan 2008 14:19

So I finally got my new brake master cylinder (280ZX 15/16") and mocked it up with the new JMF intake manifold. There's just enough room to fit a business card without them touching. I'm sure this will change once the intake manifold gasket is on. The clearance issue is caused by an unused port on the master cylinder. Can I just plug this and grind it off? It does have a bleeder valve like the one that's on the rear port in the pictures. I don't think I need these and I can gain about a 1/4" or more clearance from doing this. Should I attempt this, or make arrangements for custom motor mounts?

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u71/ ... CT0039.jpg


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