auto to stock 4 spd conversion

[tycot1]

i have done this swap many times only never back to a stock 4 spd set up. i have the trans, drive shaft (auto or manual works), trans crossmember, stick and pedal box. my question is does anyone have part numbers for a slave and clutch master? also what flywheels will work? 1600,1800,2000. what about a pilot bearing and release bearing. does the auto set up have a pilot bearing and if so it needs to be changed for a manual one, correct? what is the best release bearing to use? i have lots of this stuff in my pile but havent touched l-series stuff for along time so any help would be great. i am going to swap my 26,000 mile stocker over next week and i want to have my pile of parts ready. does anyone in the vancouver area have a clean leak free nice 4spd available as well? thanks tyson

[okayfine]

Clutch components need to come from the same vehicle application, but they don't necessarily have to come from the same application as the trans. You can run the U20 Roadster stuff in an L-series 4/5-speed, for example.

That said, if you're going to use a 4-speed, just use the stock 510 OE components. Easier to source. Just make sure it all (clutch disc, pressure plate, T/O bearing, T/O collar) are all for the 510.

Cranks from an auto will need to have the manual pilot bushing installed.

[Byron510]

Auto or Manual - all 510's had a pilot bushing installed in the crank from the factory - I've never seen an L16 without a pilot bushing already installed; likely it’s there Tyson.
The transmission had the throw out sleeve and T/O bearing attached with the clutch fork (and retaining spring) and boot in place - did it not arrive that way?
What you didn't get was the flywheel - do you have one? The one I have is for a 225mm clutch, so it won't work behind a stock 4 spd (clutch will hit 4spd trans bell housing). As for what clutch to use, if it's just going to be a nice daily driver, source a clutch through Lordco, T&T or Napa (who ever you like) as a clutch for the 510 - 1968-73 are all the same application. Same goes for the clutch master and slave cylinders. Jason got a slave through Lordco a couple weeks back for under $30 - that seems awfully cheap!
If the flex line doesn't come up in the parts books, it's the same fitting as the PL510 front brake line, but the brake hose will be about 3" longer but works fine. What you will need to source is the two clips that hold the female end of the flex hose from turning in the sheet metal bracket on the pass side “frame rail” and the U shaped lock tab to locate that body end of the brake line in place. These are the same two items used to locate and hold the front brake lines to the body. I had saved these for you, but didn't know you were coming by Jason’s to pick up the trans and bits...
The steel brake line is something you can buy pre-flared with nuts, I know Lordco carries a pretty good selection of lengths, but even their longest one is about 10" shy, last time I checked, so you may have to by two lines and install a union OR if you have a GOOD inverted flaring tool then make up a whole new line in one shot. If you need a photo of the routing to keep it looking stock, let me know.
On the Master Cylinder end, I don't think that the new clutch M/C will come with the pin that connects the M/C push rod to the clutch pedal. I was going to give you the one from the brake M/C...
Anyways, keep us posted on what you find in the parts that you buy, and I'll see if I can rustle up the rest of the bits for you to do the conversion in a nice way.
Byron

[datzenmike]

If you have the stock L16 then only the L16 or L18 flywheel will fit it as the crank mounting has 5 bolt holes. Both flywheels are threaded for a 200mm clutch/pressure plate. An exception may be the '74 620 L18 flywheel which may be for a 225mm clutch.

The automatic flex plate has a spacer between it and the crank. Be sure to remove it before installing the standard tranny flywheel.

Auto motors don't have a pilot bushing but can run with one in them, either way you should install a new one. Nissan # 32202 3000

The release bearing # is 30502 14601 for the stock 200mm clutch. Definitely get a new one.

[jason]

I have several stock 4 speed transmission both in wagon and sedan format Tyson. You're welcome to one if you want. I had just purchased a slave cylinder from Lordco the week before Octoberfast and I'm going to need a new clutch master also now ! I didn't remove anything from the parts Byron removed from the car so everything should be as Byron left it ....

[tycot1]

no complaints with the parts pile byron or jason. i have a clip from an old master to attach the clutch master to the rod. i have the small line clips for the flex line, slave and master from lordco are no problem, flaring a line is easy too. i may need a pic of the stock hard line though. so i want a 220mm disc, plate and flywheel. i wanted to put in a new release bearing, pilot bearing and then i started thinking if the trans needs new fluid i might as well look for one that is leak free. from what remember there is a difference between starters, manual to auto. can anyone confirm this. thanks for the replies guys. is there an aftermarket roadster clutch available or would i just ask for a performance pl510 clutch if i wanted it a little heavier.

[Byron510]

I don't know if that trans is leak free, but there wasn't a pile of oil under there - it's likely OK as is. But if you want to change the seals on both ends, they are cheap.
The starters are different in size, but are interchangeable. The 510 auto starter is a bit bigger physically, but will work just fine with the manual trans swap. It'd take a good eye for someone knowledgeable to notice the difference.
You need a 200mm clutch and flywheel. You could go with the roadster clutch, but it won't be much of an advantage with your stock motor and skinny’s, that's why I suggested you save your leg muscles and get an aftermarket unit (or kit which includes the clutch/pressure plate and T/O bearing) for 1/3 the price.
I'll look for a photo of the brake line, if I can't fine one I'll take one for you.
Byron

[Byron510]

I knew I had photos of ‘Ole Blue: Even through you’ll have a dual circuit master cylinder, the routing for the clutch line is the same.







Hope that helps,
Byron

[tycot1]

looks like the line has no real shape to it. does it get held down with any factory clips or does it just stay because it is so short. is the routing the same from 68-73?

[Byron510]

looks like the line has no real shape to it. does it get held down with any factory clips or does it just stay because it is so short. is the routing the same from 68-73?

I admit, you could probably do better than factory here in regards to bending the lines – I sure did in the Bronze when I changed all routing points and used stainless line.
The OEM steel lines are supported just to the RH side of the brake master by a sheet metal tab, and the clutch line is again supported by another sheet metal tap as it follows the firewall back to it's termination mount near the slave cylinder. It doesn’t look to neat, but it does work. I’ve not seen any problems with vibration in all the cars I’ve owned over the years. The routing is the same for all manual transmission PL510's.

Byron

[tycot1]

exactly what i wanted to know. thanks byron.