When it doesn't seem to matter

[Chadsinto510s]

So...do they still list that darned funky upper heater hose for the head to core? I'm tired of waiting for the one I cobbled together from brass L bends and a zillion hose clamps to leak.

READILY available. We stock them. B7021-A0800. NOT CLOTH BRAIDED. New style only.

[MtnGoat]

Nice! thank you.

Well the motor is settling in nicely. One click of the key and it leaps to a steady idle. Sounds great and very smooth. Not a lick of oil out the back even during hard shifts, as to be expected. It seems to be getting smoother every day and my mileage seems to be ticking upwards a touch as well.

I did a few plots of the M39 vs M43 needles to see what to give a shot while I sand me some M66's. If they're not too bad, I may order another set of M66s and one of the others. I used the profile measurements and did a plot of the difference between the two and the 66's, instead of the overall total width profiles as presented in one of the eariler links. After all, i'm interested in richer and leaner than the current 66's, and at which station, more than the actual " measurements per se.

[MtnGoat]

I thought I'd toss this out there for anyone in the future to have a look at. This chart uses the M66 thickness as a baseline. Each point is the M66 measurement minus the measurement at the same station for the comparison needle referenced. If it's thicker than the M66 you get a negative number there (leaner), if thinner you get a positive one (richer).

You can see where the complaints about lean condition on WOT for the other two needles come from when they are compared to the M66's.

m39 m43 vs m66.JPG (38.69 KiB) Viewed 2746 times

Here is a closeup of the total thicknesses of each of the three needles

needles.JPG (33.5 KiB) Viewed 2743 times

Thanks to Nestor Moya for measuring these needles and allowing the data to be used here.
http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/suneedles.html
and thanks to that site owner for posting it up.

All I've done is plot it a little differently.

[okayfine]

Where did you get the needle data from?

[MtnGoat]

I just added attributions to get that clarified

[okayfine]

http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/suneedles.html
and thanks to that site owner for posting it up.

Hmmm, I wonder who that could be...

[MtnGoat]

Got the Dime Quarterly issue. Very nice, very detailed. I may actually have a go at this.

[MtnGoat]

Got all the gauges on Monday. They're decent for the price. Plastic bodies etc about what you'd expect for $20 apiece, but if they work right I don't care about that. I haven't wired the temperature gauge to the sensor yet (real thermocouple, not capillary tube) but I did connect it to instrument power and light it up. here's what it looks like.

DRAGONSM.JPG (93.55 KiB) Viewed 2678 times

I'll need to add two more holes to the cluster for the pyrometer guages, and figure out where to put the thermocouples for those. I'm not sure exactly where I want them in terms of how close to the ports they should be, or where they'll clear the intake and stuff. That said I'm not sure it matters for my purposes since as long as I put them the same distance from the ports i'll be able to tell the relative mixture between the cylinders with the sensor in them. My plan is still #1 and #4, each most dependent on their respective carbs.

[okayfine]

My plan is still #1 and #4, each most dependent on their respective carbs.

I don't recall the L-series SU manifold to be offset, not like a single Weber DCOE, or even a stock downdraft.

[MtnGoat]

My thinking is that 2 & 3 are being influenced by the mixing tube between the pairs and 1 and 4 will show this the least. I want to get the most carb specific readings I can.

[okayfine]

I think the balance tube is more for wave balancing than anything to do with fuel balancing. But you gotta put 'em somewhere, and 1 and 4 are good spots, 'specially since #1 is what melted previously.

Looking forward to the comparisons of air/fuel and pyro temps.

[MtnGoat]

so, what should exhaust temp run?

[okayfine]

No idea, never have run a pyrometer. Keith (bertvorgon) would be the man to ask.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12993&start=855#p192885

[MtnGoat]

Great thread, thanks. Gave me another idea. I just picked up an hour meter for 11 bucks.

[MtnGoat]

Got the temp gauge hooked up properly today. Works fine. Now for the pyrometers..that will take some more planning since I'll need to add spaces in the gauge panel, and of course the intake and stuff will have to come off for drilling and tapping.