Near future manual swap in a ka24e

[andrewm]

I'm hastily posting this because soon I would like to convert my automatic 1970 wagon to a standard. I do not have the knowledge to complete this and most likely the tools or garage (lack there of). This is my first car that I've tried mechanics on and I'm learning slowly through reading forums etc. So my question remains, can someone facilitate this swap? I will help as much as possible, pay with cash and/or beer, and would cherish the knowledge passed down to a young datsun lover. Its overwhelming jumping into this task with not much mechanical background and some aspects of cars have me lost as I am a full time student with focus' elsewhere at the moment. If anyone could lend a hand or advice or anything let me know, as I don't even know what parts I need at the moment due to not knowing whats interchangeable in my car at the moment!


1970 510 wagon (was my daily, but bought another car so I can play around and fix up the car), 82 200sx rear end, the guy installed a pro-stick automatic shifter (which seemingly only gets slammed down and has 1 gear, no L) and I have the manual pedal box!

If this is a stupid request and I should not have jumped into a car like this with minimal knowledge let me know, feedback is crucial.

[okayfine]

If this is a stupid request and I should not have jumped into a car like this with minimal knowledge let me know, feedback is crucial.

I wouldn't say this at all. We all have to start somewhere. The auto-to-manual swap is not mechanically difficult, and a willing new-to-mechanics owner could do enough research to be confident in performing the swap after a fashion, especially with the local and Realm assistance. If this isn't a time-sensitive thing (i.e. you don't need it swapped next week due to a move across country), it is something you could do provided you had the space and tools to get it done.

This isn't to dissuade you from seeking help, as an experienced hand is a great teacher. But if you do, I'd steer toward someone that's going to teach you to fish, and not just give you a fish.

[JordanTr]

Meh, my KA 510 was/is my first car. You'll be fine. Just read things and listen to some advice here and there.

To start, try finding a 240sx 5 speed, S13 or 14. KA-e flywheel/clutch/pp. KA throwout bearing/fork/slave/flex line etc.

Order a 510 clutch master. You'll need to make/flare a hardline from master to slave or use a flex line the whole way

Get you pedal box sorted out. I think most (all?) 510s came with the clutch pedal bracket--check if yours has it.

Once the trans is in, you can measure and get a custom driveline made up.

BCRWD/craigslist is probably your best source for the KA bits. Good luck

[andrewm]

okay, I'll have to read up more! I'm sure I will have lots of questions so I am sorry ahead of time. I'll start collecting the parts now! I just need to find out all the components. Good thing you live in Langley eh?

[datzenmike]

Assume you have the S13KA?

You will need clutch and brake pedals or a complete pedal box set.
A clutch master and pushrod that connects to the pedal.
A hard line can be made from a Can Tire pre-made threaded brake line.
The flex line from the body to the slave can probably be a used brake flex line.

There are three ways to go with a transmission.
1/ The long Z series (engine) 5 speed transmission from a 720 truck or the S110 will fit a KA and is otherwise identical to a 280zx so any after market mount suitable for swapping a zx transmission into a 510 will work for it. Not as strong as the KA 5 speed.
2/ the S13/S14 KA 5 speed. Stronger but much longer than the zx. There is also a speed sensor for the speedometer so your speedometer cable won't work on it as it is. Needs custom trans mount.
3/ A D-21 Hardbody 5 speed. Identical to the S13/14 5 speed but shorter and closer to the zx 5 speed for length. Has provision for speedometer cable but gearing may be out*. Needs custom trans mount.


* I believe the 510 uses a 17 tooth drive for the speedometer and the Hardbody also has a 17 tooth pinion sleeve available too. Just remove the speed sensor ans slip the pinion sleeve in and connect your speedo cable.
In all cases the drive shaft will need shortening.
Be sure to get the shifter, knob and dust boot for it.
Replace the $5 rear seal. Lots easier now while it's out than this winter in the rain.

Any one of these transmissions may or may not come with a clutch slave and pushrod, clutch arm and dust boot. If not these will be needed.

Assume the KA has a car flywheel and so it has a 225mm clutch and PP. Get new set. Also new release collar and pilot bushing to replace the used ones. (always cheaper to replace now than tearing it all out in 4 months in the rain) If the KA comes with the matching transmission then the clutch release collar or housing is already properly matched to the PP so keep it. If other transmission, you need a 225mm clutch set that includes the correct release bearing collar that matches it.

GL-4 90W oil is recommended by Nissan but there are also good synthetics out there also, just be sure they are marked 'yellow metal safe' and never use GL-5 in them. I've had good luck with GM Delco Synchromesh oil, but not cheap. It is yellow metal safe to protect our copper alloy syncros. Two liters will do.

[andrewm]

God bless Datzenmike! I was told I have the D21 ka! and you are only located on the island, show me how to fish young master! I appreciate the knowledge! If there's a will there's a way

[datzenmike]

The S13 KA will look like this at the back...



and around the starter...




Some of my earlier information is now changed. The D21 used a 240mm flywheel with matching clutch and PP. If you have the D21 transmission keep everything and only replace the clutch and PP set, (well unless you know it already new) the release bearing (always) and put a new pilot bushing in the end of the crank. (always, it's cheap and easy)

The D21 oil pan won't work well in a car as it's more of a center or rear sump, meaning the deepest part is towards the rear and will likely interfere with the steering. An S13 KA pan would be closer but it's deeper to clear the 240sx crank girdle.

[andrewm]

For simplicity sake I'm going to try and go buy a nissan pick up that's on its last legs for bodywise etc but runs decent/well. then I wont be missing things necessarily. Hows that sound?

[okayfine]

So now I'm confused. Do you already have an automatic transmission behind your KA24e, or are you planning to do a KA swap and convert your car from auto to manual?

One's a LOT easier than the other. Your question on buying an entire truck brought on my question.

[andrewm]

the Wagon has a ka24e that is automatic and drive-able right now. I would like to retain the ka24e that is in the car and go manual

[funwithmonkeys]

I did a transmission swap in my carport and the hardest part was lifting the trans into place while lying on my back under the car. For swapping out the flex-plate with a flywheel and clutch just watch a few youtube videos. The basics are the exact same for almost every car. Also make sure you have a spare yoke to put into your transmission while you are taking it out and putting the new one in or you will have a big oily mess. I think I have one if you need it when the time comes.

[okayfine]

To me, buying a whole truck just for the trans and clutch gubbins seems like a lot of work. However, you do get to drive it and ensure the trans is okay, which can be a fair gamble when buying a loose trans.