Valve Springs with WebCam 91

[bertvorgon]

oh..oh...this thread is going sideways....

[Chickenman]

I love the smell of Nitromethane in the morning... it smells like... Victory

Even better.... Model airplanes. Castor oil and Nitromethane.... Yum!!

[510rob]

Facts:

• WebCam 91 new grind cam on my L20B U67 cylinder head.
  • Lift - .450/.450
  • Advertised Duration - 260°/260°
  • Duration @ .050" lift - 238°/238°
• I do not plan to run the engine on the strip, but only street and maybe autocross and limit max rpm to 6000.
• Head is fresh from the machine shop with
  • new stock springs
  • new SI stainless valves (43mm intake, 35mm exhaust)
  • new bronze guides
  • new valve seats and seals
  • new rockers and ported intake to match the gasket and Cannon intake manifold
  • I have some lash pads on order (15s, 16s and 17s)
  • I also have some alloy spring retainers for pads above 16.
• Dual 40DCOE Webers
• Ignition is a matchbox dizzy with an Accel Super Coil. No ballast.

Questions:

• Will stock [valve] springs work or should I get some performance springs?
• If performance springs are recommended, who and what?
• Will I have to machine the valve spring seat on the head? (I would rather not do any machining)
• Any suggestions on spark plugs? Specifically heat range.

Please advise.

[Three B's Racing]

Well at least I wasn't long winded about it right? Personally I use cat oil. Being cats have 9 lives I figure it'll out live Mobil 1 plus it make for great lip balm.

[Three B's Racing]

Please reign in the borderline-swearing-attacks and unnecessary hostility guys, it's only motor oil and there is no reason to get pissy about things.

Hostility what hostility? you from Vermont Rob? I just hate statements saying something is crap when said item has been used by many for many many years with no issues by people and a single statement is made. There is always a better choice of description. I ran Castrol in my carbed LZ22 for years with ZERO issues,,,zero.

Hey its Cool!!

[Three B's Racing]

bean oil is always a treat to smell around the pits at vintage racing.

Bean oil a treat to smell,,,,sounds like cowboys around the campfire scene from Blazing Saddles in a racing Pit.

[bertvorgon]

Back on track and speaking of my experience at Solo and Street, I would start with NGK BPR6ES and then do a classic plug check after an event, or, a wide open throttle test. At Solo you want to run as hot a plug as you can get away with, so you have no fouling and the engine picks up clean. One nice thing about NGK's is that they have a very wide range they can tolerate in my opinion. If the 6's start to look glazed, then pop some 7's in there. I used to run a hot plug TO the event, then just swap in the next range colder. That way any traffic driving is not mucking up your "race" plugs.

I run the same ignition set up as you, Dizzy, Accel Supper coil, NO ballast, has not missed a beat in over 30 years and can take my motor to 8,000 rpm no problem at 16 PSI boost.

I use NGK wires.

[Chickenman]

^ As Keith mentioned. We concur...

Question Post #5:

Also, any suggestions on spark plugs? Specifically heat range.

First answer. Post #6

Plugs. NGK Copper. BPR6ES should be fine. BPR7ES if you run track days.

Or use -11 if you prefer a wider gap.

[bertvorgon]

I'm going to start at 0.250" and go from there, really check out what sort of gap this sucker can jump....

[Chickenman]

Going sideways like Steve Kinser....

[James]

Its funny. This thread didn't go too far off - like some in the past. I do think its good that people are allowed to voice opinions. Especially opinions that are based on something real. I didn't think anything was presented in a nasty fashion…

Olive_Oyl.png (152.81 KiB) Viewed 3231 times

[bertvorgon]

For my two cents, I did not think it was that bad either.

I have known Richard for some 30+ years now, he knows of what he speaks, and has built some very fast cars. I wish you could have seen his Camaro run, I do have a video of it's early permutation, just need to maybe get it loaded onto my Vimeo account, video from the 80's.

You just watch how his 280z will morph into a monster.

[Doctor510]

I'm going to start at 0.250" and go from there, really check out what sort of gap this sucker can jump....

Really? A quarter of an inch gap !!! I hope you meant .025". Set them (the 11 series) at .040" and go for it

[bertvorgon]

No..no...I meant 0.250"...I'm going to cut bent portion of the plug off and see if it will jump to the shell of the plug...... if not, I'm going to hook up TWO Accel Super coils together and hit it with 90,000 VOLTS. Then it can double as a welder on our road trips.

Judging by your 9 posts on this site..I can see you are new to our twisted humour, Welcome to the site!

[Chickenman]

All joking aside. The " current " discussion ( get the pun ) about high voltage Ignition systems brings, up a valuable lesson.

My Dad was a TV technician and taught me at a very early about the dangers of High Voltage circuits stopping your heart. He taught me to only handle live circuits with your right hand and keep your left arm tucked behind your back. NEVER let your left arm be a conductor pathway to ground.

I was doing the old " screwdriver in a Spark Lead " test on my Camaro with a Crane H-6 CD Box and LX-92 coil. Serious voltage and current there.

Short story... pulled screwdriver back a bit too far.. and those electrons decided it was easier to jump through the insulated screwdriver handle, down my right arm and down both legs to the ground. I just saw a Blast of Stars.... and the next thing I knew I was flat on the ground, with a burn hole in my thumb and my right arm and both legs locked in spasm's. My thighs and right arm ached for two days after that.

If I had been holding that screwdriver in my left hand, or my left hand had been touching the car, I'm quite sure it would have stopped my heart.