L-series engine gaskets

Engine, Transmission and related drivetrain.
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510wizard
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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby 510wizard » 09 Apr 2016 17:05

As far as the head bolts, if you can't find any or priced out of your range, you might get the ARP stud kit for the L-series.

Chickenman
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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby Chickenman » 09 Apr 2016 17:13

If you are worried about electrolysis with the Copper spray, you can use Hi Tack Spray a Gasket. ( The Red stuff that always clogs the nozzles ). It's very effective for sealing water passages. I'd recommend only spraying around the water passage holes, as you'll never get the head off again if you spray the whole gasket.

Try and get a Cometic gasket. They are far better than Fel Pro IMHO. ITM and DNJ gaskets are good as well. DNJ seems to be able to get original Japanese manufactured components ( Rings, Bearings, Gaskets etc ).

I first saw DNJ parts in person back in 2014 when I had to get my 280Z engine rebuilt. I swear the inside packaging and product appearance is identical to Nissan products back in the 1970's. Piston ring sets looked identical to Nissan products, even down to the Pink, Blue and Yellow cellophane wrappings with Japanese script on the wrappings and the Japanese instructions. Same with the Rod and Main bearings. They appear to be the original Japanese parts from the original suppliers. Might be worth checking out...

For our local guys. B&J Parts in Poco can probably get Cometic. 604 464-6677. Ask for Kurt or Drew. ( Owners. Good guys ) . Andy at Specialty probably has a stockpile.

I've personally had, and heard of others, having issues with the Fel-Pro Perma Torque gaskets ( Blue color ) on SBC aluminium heads. Leaks around water passages. It's as if the head gasket material is too hard and doesn't compress enough. The Fel-Pro Printo-Seals seem to be fine.

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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby Chickenman » 09 Apr 2016 18:00

Rock Auto sells DNJ brand L20B Head gaskets and Beck Arnley L20B head gasket sets. Beck Arnley products are usually very good, as they are supplied from the OEM manufacturers.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1975,620+pickup,2.0l+l4,1210116,engine,cylinder+head+gasket+/+head+gasket+set,5412?a=Referer+www.google.ca+URL+%2F

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okayfine
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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby okayfine » 09 Apr 2016 18:03

While you're looking, take a peek at the coolant ports in the head and block to verify there's no cracking. Not probable, but possible.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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abisel
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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby abisel » 10 Apr 2016 04:06

2doorJim: The block had never been machined from what I can tell. In removing the layout blue by gently filing, the only groves are those from the original machining and in an area away from the water passages. I can't see any other problems either with the head or block.

Chickenman: I already ordered a couple DNJ and ITM head gaskets from RockAuto. Cheap enough to at least take a look at them. DNJ appears to have built-in silicon beads around the water passages. The Fel-Pro gasket that failed was the Printa-Seal and it was a couple Datsun shops that mentioned the Fel-Pro doesn't compress enough to seal properly.

So, with the new gasket, I will apply either copper coat or Hi Tack just as a safety measure along with new bolts.

BTW Chickenman, did you get your name from the Cheech and Chong movie Nice Dreams where they wake up on the porch of Casa De Wacko with "chickenman" clucking and screeching?
Last edited by abisel on 19 Apr 2016 18:33, edited 1 time in total.

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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby Chickenman » 10 Apr 2016 04:35

Nope. Google: Dick Orkin and " The adventures of Chickenman. "

In the early 80"s a local Radio Staion ( Larry and Willie ) starting replaying the complete catalog of " The adventures of Chickenman " . I listened to it often on the way to work. Wellll... throw in a nite of Partying with the " Greenwoods ", way too many Vodka shooters, an Early morning Slalom and a bang on impersonation of the " Most Fantastic Crime Fighter the World has ever known "... and a Legend ( or Fool ) is born. You had to be there.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDDoSb73rA8

Edit: A nite of " Partying with the Greenwoods " would be very similar to a nite of " Partying with Cheech and Chong "... and in fact I think we did call Dan's abode " Casa De Wacko "....or was that the closet at the Motel in Kelowna? It's all such a blur now... :mrgreen:
Last edited by Chickenman on 10 Apr 2016 04:55, edited 4 times in total.

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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby Chickenman » 10 Apr 2016 04:42

Don't forget to use a proper thread lubricant on the bolts. Putting them in dry yields a false Torque reading and the bolts will not have enough clamping force. Clevite and others make a proper bolt lubricant, but you can use Motor oil in a jiffy. Do not use Anti-Seize on the threads as this will also yield a false Torque reading, resulting in excessive stretch on the bolts.

Lubricate the threads before install and also under the heads of the bolts where they contact the head bolt washer.

Edit: I see that Abisel mentioned earlier on, that he did lightly oil the threads and under the bolt heads to washer interface.

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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby bertvorgon » 10 Apr 2016 04:54

Bawk, bawk bawk...BAWK...he's everywhere, he's everywhere.......CHICKEN MAN.....!

ChickenMan, Mr. Gadget (me)....and 10 others in CANNONBALL heaven on the Hope/Princeton.......
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1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
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abisel
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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby abisel » 10 Apr 2016 05:54

Chickenman: Are you sure of how you got your name? You say it is all a blur and you don't remember exactly. AND you said you were in Casa De Wacko?

https://youtu.be/Q4nzgZ_nezw

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abisel
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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby abisel » 10 Apr 2016 06:29

I found turbo head bolts on Nissan Parts Deal ( http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts-list/1983-nissan-280zx/cylinder-head-rocker-cover.html?Filter=(2%3dL28ET%3b3%3dJ) ) for $6.63 each for the long bolts and $5.79 each for the short bolts. Part numbers from this write-up in Dime Quarterly: http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2011/09/tech-how-to-headgasket-replacement.html

So once all the parts arrive, I can let the fun begin with the reassembly.

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bertvorgon
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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby bertvorgon » 10 Apr 2016 06:42

I was in the closet in Kelowna......
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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Byron510
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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby Byron510 » 10 Apr 2016 09:38

Chickenman wrote:Don't forget to use a proper thread lubricant on the bolts. Putting them in dry yields a false Torque reading and the bolts will not have enough clamping force. Clevite and others make a proper bolt lubricant, but you can use Motor oil in a jiffy. Do not use Anti-Seize on the threads as this will also yield a false Torque reading, resulting in excessive stretch on the bolts.

Lubricate the threads before install and also under the heads of the bolts where they contact the head bolt washer.

Edit: I see that Abisel mentioned earlier on, that he did lightly oil the threads and under the bolt heads to washer interface.


...and to add to Richards post, do tap the holes in the block. I have seen many motors assembled where the last couple threads showed some gauling of the threads due to debris in the holes. If you haven't done so already, run a #2 or #3 ( plug or bottom) tap down the holes. You might be surprised. If these is debris in the holes, this will definitely give you a false torque as well.

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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby datzenmike » 10 Apr 2016 10:54

Corrosion is likely not running a good antifreeze/coolant mix. You may have but someone else probably didn't.

If no imprint on the gasket, either the head or the block is not flat OR the gasket was not uniform thickness OR the bolts not torqued in proper sequence OR some bottomed out. Lot of ORs.

The L head bolts are totally reusable if not damaged. I see no reason to get the TURBO bolts as the recommended torque is easily and safely within the limits of the stock bolts. Aluminum expands twice that of iron ... you don't want to tear the threads out of the block. Aluminum heads require less torque than cast iron heads so just because you have bolts that can be torqued to 75 pounds does not mean you should. 60 pounds is 60 pounds.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby Three B's Racing » 11 Apr 2016 07:06

abisel wrote:To answer some questions:
The head had been rebuilt at the machine shop and the surfaces were decked. only .005 removed from the block side.
I did clean out the head bolt holes and chased the threads prior to installation.
Oil was applied to both the head bolt threads and under the washer during installation, and head bolts torqued from the middle outward in 3 stages. 40-50-60.
I checked the deck with a Starrett straight edge and could not get a .004 (max limit) feeler gauge under the straight edge anywhere.
.


I sure hope the timing cover was bolted to the block when it got decked.
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James
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Re: L-series engine gaskets

Postby James » 11 Apr 2016 08:24

I think he was referring to the block side of the head - not the block itself.

Interesting point with the front cover. I always leave the front cover loose until I get the head bolted down - so I know it has freedom to move when installing the head.

Its going to be hard to tell what the fix was/is with everything changing (dowels, bolts, gasket), but my gut is that there is/was something not working beyond the head gasket. Hope you get it fixed and onto something else!
Finished is better than perfect......


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