Buying Subaru R180 diff, should I buy the axles
Re: Buying Subaru R180 diff, should I buy the axles
Is your LSD R180 a Subaru unit? In other words will You require the custom stub axles?
Re: Buying Subaru R180 diff, should I buy the axles
The R180 LSD is from a Subaru STI.
F20C 510 in progress...
Re: Buying Subaru R180 diff, should I buy the axles
Torque kills diffs, not 240HP F20Cs, unless you're going to go around and clutch-drop all the time. From a durability standpoint, the STi diff and stock half-shafts should work fine. Vibration is more a question of ride height.
You're probably fine with an R160LSD, but I understand you already have the STi diff, so no harm in using it.
You're probably fine with an R160LSD, but I understand you already have the STi diff, so no harm in using it.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
Re: Buying Subaru R180 diff, should I buy the axles
Thanks for the honest opinion!
F20C 510 in progress...
Re: Buying Subaru R180 diff, should I buy the axles
I elected to go with the integrated stubs and cv axles because I bought a sube sti lsd diff, AND because I had driveline vibration which I presumed was due to excessive lowering.
I feel the cv axles did reduce vibration but only slightly, I've since discovered I have excessive play between the driveshaft yoke and trans tail.
The driveshaft shop combination stubs and cv axles are a good deal compared to buying the parts separately.
The driveshaft shop hardware uses 108 mm CVs and thick axle shafts, it's robust hardware that's not likely to deteriorate even under drag race applications, but it seems rather heavy. I feel the smaller 100mm cvs would suffice for our application. Not certain what size hardware wcr and Troy offer.
I feel the cv axles did reduce vibration but only slightly, I've since discovered I have excessive play between the driveshaft yoke and trans tail.
The driveshaft shop combination stubs and cv axles are a good deal compared to buying the parts separately.
The driveshaft shop hardware uses 108 mm CVs and thick axle shafts, it's robust hardware that's not likely to deteriorate even under drag race applications, but it seems rather heavy. I feel the smaller 100mm cvs would suffice for our application. Not certain what size hardware wcr and Troy offer.