Bushing project hasn't been started yet, but based on advice received I think I'll try using a socket as the "pusher" and freeze the bushing beforehand-- even though I'm a bit concerned about the cold temp making it more brittle and thus perhaps even more likely to fracture. (Am I over-thinking this, or what?)
The wrinkles in the project just keep coming though. After Ken installed the new rear seal (crank seal) the other day, I got a call a few hours later saying he realized he hadn't thought enough while doing it. Working mostly on British stuff, he wasn't prepared for the excessive room "behind" the seal and therefore had just kept tapping away, figuring it would bottom at about the right place. But it just kept going... and in hindsight he realized this was a problem. Here's a pic of the situation:
The seal is recessed about 6-7 mm-- it isn't quite "square" on the crank. Presumably it could be squared up with a little more tapping. However, both Ken and I assume it needs to be replaced with another new seal, if only because it's much too deeply recessed. The worry is that it'll leak-- we don't know why, but it just seems possible-- if it's this far out of place.
Anybody got experience with this issue? I'm assuming it wouldn't be super hard to R & R this seal again, now that I know how to do it.
My only worry is how to get a screwdriver "into" the seal when it's been driven this far in. The leverage and angle of attack are far from ideal.
OTOH, if the seal seems likely to work just fine as it is, I don't want to fix a non-existent problem.
Oh, and yes the paint will come off the crank before I got any farther. And if this seal does need to come out, I'll certainly use scotchbrite and 2000 grit to clean the crank boss too before re-assembly.