Questions to get my car running

Engine, Transmission and related drivetrain.
Button
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Questions to get my car running

Postby Button » 11 Oct 2016 01:34

Hey guys after having this car for over two years I am getting pretty close to having things back together enough that I can start the car. I figured I will have a few questions along the way so I thought I would put all those questions in one thread.

I am going to run a line from where the oil pressure switch is to a manifold that has both an oil pressure switch for a warning light, and an oil pressure sender for the gauge. My question is what is the PSI of the switch I should run for the warning light? I saw in one of Bert's posts on the subject that he said something about a Hobbs Switch but I couldn't find any info about that. Is that a specific oil pressure switch?

Thanks

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bertvorgon
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Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby bertvorgon » 11 Oct 2016 04:47

It is just a "HOBBS" switch that is adjustable up to XXX lbs, they do not care with it is being hit with...air, oil, fuel, etc..

That being said, I have mine set at 40 PSI for street driving, so the light does not come on until I am at a traffic light, or a situation where you KNOW there is no issue. You can run it lower if you like. When I was racing, I had it set at 50 PSI...so if it came on....You know you were heading to an issue and could get things shut down BEFORE a lot of expensive parts got ruined.

So, you want one of the switches that will give you the range you need:

http://docs-europe.electrocomponents.co ... 3e74cc.pdf

You adjust it with a small screw driver in the top, obviously changing the pre-load on the spring.

Consider the factory sender comes on at something like 5 PSI.....

here are a couple of my "manifold" for oil distribution..to the cam oiler, to the turbo, and to the oil pressure gauge.

Also one of the stupidly bright lights in action. I put it in this location for all the reasons of racing..in your face....but for street driving.... One of Specialty's drivers had an issue with an un-watched gauge one race, so AFTER the catastrophic failure, we all put in BRIGHT low oil warning lights.

The small lower red light is just my fan light
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"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

Button
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA..

Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby Button » 11 Oct 2016 13:00

Thank you Bert for taking the time to write that up. That is pretty cool that the switches are adjustable. So based off that Honeywell chart you sent should I get the the 35 psi one - 76053 or the 60 psi one - 76054? I am assuming the two terminal and i'm not sure whether I need the NC or NO circuit. I have what I am assuming is a stock L20 at the moment (it cam in the non running car), but I have a 2.3L Robello built motor that I will be putting in eventually.

I love your dash, it looks like cockpit of the Millenium Falcon! I was thinking about mounting the light lower like your fan light, but perhaps I will try to find a location where I am sure not to miss it.

On a side note those square head screws that are holding your hose tie downs, are they just self tapping sheet metal screws? I am getting to a point where I need to start strapping stuff down.

510rob
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Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby 510rob » 11 Oct 2016 18:27

* the 35psi type Hobbs switches have a listed adjustment range of 25-50psi (*1)

* the 60psi type Hobbs switches have a listed adjustment range of 51-90psi (*1)

* the stock oil pressure light gets +12V through key on power coming from the hazard fuse into the cluster via the green/red wire connected to pin 12 of the cluster plug. Power goes through the bulb, then out through pin 8 of the cluster plug to the yellow/black wire, then to the oil pressure sensor/switch...

* if the switch sees insufficient oil pressure, you want the light on. Conversely, if the switch sees sufficient oil pressure, you want the light off.

* if the switch has less than 5psi (the switch point pressure), then it shorts the yellow/black wire to ground, which completes the electrical circuit, which lights the dash bulb to warn you that you have really really really insufficient oil pressure.

* this logic requires a normally closed switch

(*1 ref ---> https://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=49633)

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Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby 510rob » 11 Oct 2016 18:34


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bertvorgon
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Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby bertvorgon » 11 Oct 2016 19:28

Thanks Rob,

I was just going to sit down to answer this....at least there are no transistors involved....

yah, you do not want the light to be intrusive, but, you do not want to miss it either if you are in the heat of combat.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

Button
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA..

Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby Button » 11 Oct 2016 21:06

Thank you for the thoroughness Rob that is super helpful. So based on Bert running 40 psi for the car on the street and the circuit type it looks like I need the 35 psi NC version correct?

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bertvorgon
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Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby bertvorgon » 12 Oct 2016 12:45

Those screws are ROBERTSON sheet metal screws, designed by a CANADIAN!

http://www.mysteriesofcanada.com/ontari ... son-screw/

Philips and slotted screws have NO place in my screw collection.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

Button
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA..

Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby Button » 12 Oct 2016 13:14

Thanks for sharing Bert, that's a neat bit of history and its interesting how the superior product inst always the one that prevails. It's similar to the whole Betamax vs VHS format war. From my understanding the Betamax was a the better product. I agree phillips and slotted are terrible.

Are the ones you used self drilling screws or do you drill a pilot hole? Also are lock washers required with sheet metal screws?

Cheers

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bertvorgon
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Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby bertvorgon » 12 Oct 2016 17:57

I always drill a small pilot hole for those. I look at the diameter of the SOLID part of the screw and then drill a hair smaller than that.

I have never used lock washers, at least with the Adel clamps. It has just depended on what they are holding down I guess.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

Button
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA..

Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby Button » 12 Oct 2016 19:02

Again, thanks Bert.

510rob
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Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby 510rob » 12 Oct 2016 20:16

another option is to use threaded rivets (aka rivnuts or threadserts or whatever else they are called)

Button
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA..

Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby Button » 22 Oct 2016 11:11

So I pulled my intake and and old header to replace the header, and I am wondering if you guys recommend rebuilding the Weber 32/36 before I put it back on the car? I bought this car as a project and shortly after buying it two years ago I was able to get it running for a minute but I have never driven it so I'm not too sure about the condition of the engine and associated parts.

I guess the obvious answer is "yes of course you should rebuild it," and while it seems fairly straight forward to do its just one more thing to add o the list before I get the car going. I suppose I can bolt it on and it's not the end of the world to pull the carb off the intake later and rebuild it.

Anyways whats your guys thoughts? I'm not familiar with these Weber carbs, would I be better off just rebuilding it now?

Also you can see from the picture that there is some build up in the intake. There was some in the head as well, which I was able to mostly clean up with a shop vac. Fortunately, the valves appeared to be closed so hopefully nothing dropped past the valves. Do you know what causes the build up and should I be concerned?

Thanks.

Chris
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okayfine
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Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby okayfine » 22 Oct 2016 11:17

Hard to say without knowledge of the carb's previous life. Carb looks in good shape, you know, visually...from the outside. If it looks clean in the bores/at the throttle plates, bolt it on and try it. Probably end up going through the jetting and such once everything's running, anyway.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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bertvorgon
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Re: Questions to get my car running

Postby bertvorgon » 22 Oct 2016 13:51

As Ok said, you can only try...

Then, make sure the accelerator pump is working. Carbs that sit for a LONG time can have the pump diaphragm dry out and not give a good shot of fuel.

Make sure the throttle shafts have no play, there is a nice bearing kit available if you end up rebuilding it.

Just double check all the screws are tight along the top cover ( do not over tighten), and that the accelerator pump diaphragm mounts are tight (4 screws).

Put a small dollop of grease on the accelerator pump cam bearing surface, and on the secondary throttle mechanism, where it opens the secondary, just makes things in transition nice and smooth.

IF...you do end up rebuilding it..be aware that there are TWO types of top gaskets...you must get the right one..pop back on here to check.

Also.....make sure it has FRESH gasoline...old gas can screw up a lot of diagnosis!
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer


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