Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Engine, Transmission and related drivetrain.
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Byron510
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Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby Byron510 » 28 Oct 2016 07:17

Hi all,

I'm looking at changing the valve seals on the Bronze, and thought I'd try an old mechanics trick of simply compressing the cylinder with air, remove the valve spring and change the seals in place, one at a time. There is definite leakage on de-cell, making everyone eyes water who've been following me lately on our drives.

Alternately, I could use rope in the same fashion - even a combination of the two.

Have any of you completed either method of valve retention to change the seals on your L series engines in the past? I've always considered this a good time for overhaul, but it may not be necessary.

Look forward to hearing from you.

Byron
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RMS
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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby RMS » 28 Oct 2016 08:19

just completed that job on my radio flyer, easy job with the right tool, took about 40 min with learning's. Image

too frightened by the potential of dropping a valve, I used rope . one trick...remove the rocker before adding the rope or air.
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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby Byron510 » 28 Oct 2016 08:52

I'd certainly want the piston at TDC as a safety on each cylinder. The rope gives a good mechanical stop for sure.

I have two of those hook tools for pulling rockers - because one good tool is never enough....
Actually I let mine out and it didn't come back for a very long time. In the meantime I needed it again and had to buy another. It's a great tool. I'll try and locate a fresh set of seals. I have many gasket kits, but now question the age and quality of the rubber in them. I wonder of Nissan still carries these in stock. Worth a try at the local dealer.

Any other thoughts out there?

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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby JordanTr » 28 Oct 2016 19:45

KA24DE + T!

:D
Jordan | '72 2 door KA project | '94 240sx RB26DETT | '97 Silvia RB25DET | '90 Audi 90 Quattro 20V (DD)

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okayfine
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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby okayfine » 28 Oct 2016 19:50

Did it with rope and a DIY compressor tool. No problems.
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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby datzenmike » 28 Oct 2016 22:07

Tie a couple of knots in the end of a meter long 3/8 nylon rope so it can't fall in, and shove the rest in the cylinder. Turn towards TDC compression until tight and you're good. Change a broken valve spring on the side of the road, don't need compressor, hose or fitting and you can leave over night or all week without worry about the power going off. It's just too damn easy and simple and probably why people dismiss it.
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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby McShagger510 » 28 Oct 2016 22:55

JordanTr wrote:KA24DE + T! :D


That's probably gonna take another 40 minutes or so.....
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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby Byron510 » 29 Oct 2016 07:41

McShagger510 wrote:
JordanTr wrote:KA24DE + T! :D


That's probably gonna take another 40 minutes or so.....


You guys are awesome!

I've used the rope trick for years when removing front pulleys or flywheel bolts with a motor in an automatic or on an engine stand. If I'm at home I have a simple tool that uses the ring gear to lock the crank in place, but if the flywheel isn't on, or I'm not at home....

I think I'll do this rope method, seems simple enough. Keep you posted.

Thanks for all the input guys.

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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby Chickenman » 01 Nov 2016 13:53

Order A-14 series seals if you need a bit more clearance. They are shorter than the 510 seals and will give a bit more clearance to the retainer bottom. Part Number 13207-H7200 or 13207-H7210. Should still be available at dealerships, and if you can't get them from a car dealership, Nissan Forklift distributors still sell them. The A-series is used in Forklifts to this day.

Before using Valve Spring compressor, give all of the retainers a good solid " Bop" with a deep socket and ball peen hammer. This will " shock " the valve keepers loose from the retainer and make the retainer easier to move.

Note: Make sure you have the air hooked up to the cylinder or the Rope in the cylinder first. If you have stock or weakish springs the deep socket trick will actually remove the retainer with the right technique. Don't forget to stuff rags in the front cover drain area. If you really want to get tricky, place a small Neodymium magnet on the outside of the deep socket. Any keepers that jump loose will then stick to the inside of the deep socket.

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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby Byron510 » 01 Nov 2016 17:26

Sounds advice Richard - thanks.

Called the Nissan dealer today, they want $7 a seal...!!! So what's everyone take on say a Felpro valve seal in comparison to a genuine Nissan seal?

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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby Chickenman » 01 Nov 2016 18:20

E-Bay for OEM Nissan seals. Or give Glen a call at the Datsun Shoppe. I'm sure he has some factory seals there.
Felpro seals are probably OK... although I'd talk to the experts.

What Part number were you quoted on? $7.00 CDN each for OEM Nissan 13207-H7210 is not bad. They are around $5.75 USD each from USA dealers such as Courtesy.

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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby Chickenman » 01 Nov 2016 18:35

Or Rock Auto. Complete set of Eight 13207-H7210 is only $7.05 USD. DNJ brand ( VSS604 ) which is an OEM Japan manufacturer to Nissan.

ITM is good as well. Part number SS140. $1.89 USD each. Expensive boogers!! That's $15.12 USD a set!! Deary me....

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1977,b210,1.4l+l4,1210813,engine,valve+stem+seal,5800

Original 510 seals are available as well. Rock Auto has DNJ ( excellant ) Mahle, Beck Arnley and other brands ridiculously cheap as well.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1971,510,1.6l+l4,1209978,engine,valve+stem+seal,5800

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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby RMS » 01 Nov 2016 19:12

having only bought or acquired complete felpro gasket kits I seem to be swimming in valve seals, pollution control gaskets, and round port exhaust gaskets.

your welcome to come by on the way to or from yvr and grab a set of seals.
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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby Chickenman » 01 Nov 2016 19:17

If you need it, I have the KD OHC VS compressor that you can borrow. Also a proper Valve Seal installation tool. You'll need to get some Condoms though... :mrgreen:

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Re: Changing valves seals with head in place L-series

Postby Byron510 » 02 Nov 2016 06:26

Usually the felpro sets come the with required condoms. I too am swimming in them as Robyn mentioned. My concern is that lord know how old they are. Maybe it's not a concern, it's not like they have been sitting out in the sunlight. But they are rubber and do have a shelf life. As the motor was supposed to be replaced by now, I have been holding back, but it really needs to be addressed. I'll try and reach Glenn today at the Z Shop, see if he can do better.

Thanks for the offer Richard, I do have 2 of these KD tools :-) They do work well.

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