CV Failure

Engine, Transmission and related drivetrain.
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duke
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Re: CV Failure

Postby duke » 21 Jul 2017 11:59

BillF wrote:In "How to Modify...", BRE had similar problems with U-joints, but they were being pushed to the extreme. Surprising CVs aren't working better.


This comes back to my point. Many of us are running the CV's at a pretty extreme angle, which I think is the reason for grease escaping/failures/etc.

BTW, the BRE pic shows CV joints and not U joints.
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Mattndew76
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Re: CV Failure

Postby Mattndew76 » 21 Jul 2017 12:22

An O-ring groove, or flat gasket along with a heat-sink outer diameter design change would help a ton on these adapters.
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BillF
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Re: CV Failure

Postby BillF » 21 Jul 2017 14:04

CVs indeed -- they went back and forth on this. Page 175 adds more relevant info.
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Three B's Racing
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Re: CV Failure

Postby Three B's Racing » 24 Jul 2017 06:27

Mattndew76 wrote:
Three B's Racing wrote:Actually I responded to Matt's "Looks like Troy needs to redesign the adapters for containing the grease" if this isn't saying "Blaming" Troy's adapters when my issue was grease escaping and ruining a Single CV, then I don't know what is. Not here to start arguments guys, I just don't want Troy thinking I'm blaming him when I'm pretty sure it's the boot ring seal against the CV not the adapters. Remember, only one of four leaked. If it were the adapters im pretty sure they all would have leaked and I wouldn't be the only one reporting such a thing.


Well I will assure you that my comment is not blaming Troy. As you have only used a portion of the comment, and assigned a pile of conjecture to it.

Conjecture = " if this isn't saying "Blaming" Troy's adapters when my issue was grease escaping and ruining a Single CV, then I don't know what is."

The remainder of my comment also spoke of me redesigning my own adapter design as well. So no, it isnt blaming anyone. It is a general comment of improvement to an existing product.

I take offense because of your assumption. You even bypass people who actually claim they would never buy his product again.....Yet use a partial quote to take a swipe at me as if I blame him?

Your original post and following few do enough to blame Troy rather than cherry picking my comment for whatever reason.


Just my opinion and how I interpret it that's all don't get all defensive it's nothing personal. I mean it did say "To Keep grease from escaping" when it didn't leak from the adapters, it leaked from between the boot and CV..geez
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Re: CV Failure

Postby Three B's Racing » 24 Jul 2017 06:29

funwithmonkeys wrote:Just to be clear on my comment that I would not buy it again. No grease escaped from my CV's. The problem I have with them were the tolerances in the splines and the rest of the machined parts. Having 5+ degrees of rotation in parts because of crappy tolerances is my problem. Mine show that they have had some heat also even with being fully packed with grease.


I totally understood why you wouldn't "spline clearances" as I remember some discussion about this.
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TheHeretic
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Re: CV Failure

Postby TheHeretic » 26 Jul 2017 14:30

While getting a transmission noise checked out, the well-known shop also looked at the rear end to see if that had anything to do with noise. Doesn't look like it was BUT the owner with 30+ years of experience did comment that the Ermish CV axle kit had a ton of play. When he showed me the car up on the rack we both pinpointed the loose tolerance to the inner CVs. The John Williams stub axles had no play and it didn't seem like the splines in the axles did either. You can feel the clunk when rolling off and on the throttle and the owner of the shop also noticed that when driving the car.

Not that happy after spending $900 on the kit. The Driveshaft Shop said that their kit would require no annual maintenance and that all the tolerances would be tight so that no clunking or meaningful play would be present. Might be moving on from the Ermish kit....
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funwithmonkeys
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Re: CV Failure

Postby funwithmonkeys » 26 Jul 2017 18:13

TheHeretic wrote:While getting a transmission noise checked out, the well-known shop also looked at the rear end to see if that had anything to do with noise. Doesn't look like it was BUT the owner with 30+ years of experience did comment that the Ermish CV axle kit had a ton of play. When he showed me the car up on the rack we both pinpointed the loose tolerance to the inner CVs. The John Williams stub axles had no play and it didn't seem like the splines in the axles did either. You can feel the clunk when rolling off and on the throttle and the owner of the shop also noticed that when driving the car.

Not that happy after spending $900 on the kit. The Driveshaft Shop said that their kit would require no annual maintenance and that all the tolerances would be tight so that no clunking or meaningful play would be present. Might be moving on from the Ermish kit....



That is the exact problem I had with the kit.
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Re: CV Failure

Postby Sleepys-14 » 28 Jul 2017 07:25

Same issue here with the ermish and futofab(wolf creek). Its all the same design. The amount of play in the parts is questionable at best. Although I have not broken a cv yet, it seems that it is only a matter of time. Grease is everywhere too. I think I just need to make my own axles to get the results im looking for...
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Re: CV Failure

Postby eastbaysolo_73 » 28 Jul 2017 21:39

Has anyone looked into the Maddat.com.au cv axle kit? Hard to tell from the photo but it looks like the stub axle's are built in like a true CV axle. Here's a photo. They run $2,250AUS They work with both R180 and R200.
R200 Billet Axles.jpg
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Nor Cal Meng !

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TheHeretic
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Re: CV Failure

Postby TheHeretic » 29 Jul 2017 06:46

I talked to Scott at Mad Dat and was tempted to purchase their kit. It's definitely very well made! Ultimately it came down to the fact that I will only be running 190hp-ish to the rear wheels and not racing the car much. The extra heat treatment and selection of metals in their kit would not be put to use by me. Plus you are talking almost $1000+ extra than the kit I think I might swap the Ermish Kit out for (The Driveshaft Shop kit). Also if you need any parts serviced or warranted, it's likely that they will need to be mailed back to Australia. That would get expensive.

I've only heard good things about the DSS kit. No leaking grease from the CV and no play in the axles or splines. Plus US-based service and warranty which hopefully won't be used.
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Re: CV Failure

Postby eastbaysolo_73 » 29 Jul 2017 21:43

TheHeretic wrote:I talked to Scott at Mad Dat and was tempted to purchase their kit. It's definitely very well made! Ultimately it came down to the fact that I will only be running 190hp-ish to the rear wheels and not racing the car much. The extra heat treatment and selection of metals in their kit would not be put to use by me. Plus you are talking almost $1000+ extra than the kit I think I might swap the Ermish Kit out for (The Driveshaft Shop kit). Also if you need any parts serviced or warranted, it's likely that they will need to be mailed back to Australia. That would get expensive.

I've only heard good things about the DSS kit. No leaking grease from the CV and no play in the axles or splines. Plus US-based service and warranty which hopefully won't be used.


I here you I was just putting it out there as another option. Im running Ermish first Gen set up and they are tired. I too had the same grease and clunking sound issue. I have them apart right now as I'm doing the Byron mod to my rear cross member. I wasn't aware of (The Driveshaft Shop kit). Im going to look into that as an option thanks for sharing.
Nor Cal Meng !

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Re: CV Failure

Postby okayfine » 31 Jul 2017 05:41

So...these kits are adapters/CVs/axles. If the CVs are poor and the rest of the bits are in good condition, why not just get some better CVs? They're cheap, compared to getting a whole new kit. Ran the Lobro parts (CVs and boots) with Matt's v1 adapters, no gaskets for the boots, never had grease escape, never developed play. Didn't have the miles on that some of you guys do, perhaps, but had 'em on for something like five years and haven't heard of any issues from the new owner.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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TheHeretic
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Re: CV Failure

Postby TheHeretic » 31 Jul 2017 10:30

I won't speak for everyone here but for me, there is a comfort level purchasing from the vendor who has researched all the necessary parts, purchased and assembled the components and will provide service support and a warranty. Otherwise, I am piecing something together, hoping there really isn't any issues (probably CVs but could be the axles?). The DSS kit is ready to go and has hundreds of customers who have used the kit and no major issues like leaking grease or loose tolerances. It's possible besides the CVs the rest of the Ermish kit is top-notch but I'm not confident enough to keep it long-term.
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Re: CV Failure

Postby broke » 31 Jul 2017 15:55

Just to throw some more fuel on the fire, what all of these big dollar conversions have in common that I really hate is those thick alloy adapters at each end. Adding those just exacerbates the angularity issue. The appeal for me (apart from having all the bits lying around anyway) with the R30/R31 style axles is you get the maximum length halfshaft by eliminating those - the inner CV actually plugs straight into the diff with no stub axle too.

I guess what I'm saying is if I was going to run a different setup I would be doing my best to eliminate adapter flanges or make them all as thin as they could possibly be.
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Byron510
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Re: CV Failure

Postby Byron510 » 31 Jul 2017 16:34

Broke - I'm glad you chimed in. I have heard that there is a generic type CV conversion common in Aus and NZ that utilizes all Nissan OEM joints and flanges.

I know that Jordan did something similar in his 510 locally, but it consisted of some quite hard to find parts.

Added to this, a friend of mine has bought a set up utilizing an R160 clsd locally with correct length CV shafts with nothing shortened. But we can't identify the parts aside from what are likely 280ZX turbo flanges on the control arms. It's very possible that the diff flanges are Subi as is the diff, but what shafts are these that are the correct length??? We are left wondering.

So what is this recipe of parts used on Oz and NZ 1600's using OEM parts that install CVs without the adapter flanges utilizing R160 and R180 diffs?

Byron
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