R160 Diff ID

Engine, Transmission and related drivetrain.
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KiKiIchiBan
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R160 Diff ID

Post by KiKiIchiBan » 16 Sep 2018 14:06

Evening Realm.

I managed to remove the rear subframe today and took the diff cover off to inspect it. I had a feeling the diff was welded up as both wheels were locked going both directions and pushing it about trying to steer it was almost impossible.

I was pleasantly surprised opening it up. Thinking it's a Subaru clutch type going on what I've seen on Google but anyone know for sure?

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Should I be worried about the less than perfect finish on the right hand side of the diff? Nothing is floating around in the oil, is this a bodge to get it to fit?

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Do the numbers mean anything? I've never swapped a diff in any of my cars so have no idea what I'm looking at.

Thank you :)
My Bluebird SSS Coupe #25
http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=26929

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defdes
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Re: R160 Diff ID

Post by defdes » 16 Sep 2018 17:27

It's been a while since I have had mine opened, but looks like a 3:9 clutch pack.

datzenmike
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Re: R160 Diff ID

Post by datzenmike » 17 Sep 2018 19:38

39/10=3.9
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

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KiKiIchiBan
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Re: R160 Diff ID

Post by KiKiIchiBan » 18 Sep 2018 04:45

Thanks both. Is that good? :lol:
My Bluebird SSS Coupe #25
http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=26929

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bertvorgon
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Re: R160 Diff ID

Post by bertvorgon » 18 Sep 2018 05:14

Depends.....That was stock gearing in our 510's.

From a pure performance standpoint, depending on HP and torque, it would be quite lame.

With what you are re-building I would be shooting for a much "shorter" gear to really help acceleration, 4:11, 4:3, etc.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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KiKiIchiBan
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Re: R160 Diff ID

Post by KiKiIchiBan » 18 Sep 2018 10:11

bertvorgon wrote:
18 Sep 2018 05:14
With what you are re-building I would be shooting for a much "shorter" gear to really help acceleration, 4:11, 4:3, etc.
I have no idea how much HP/Torque the L18 will make, it'll be interesting to eventually find out.

Enough broken old Subarus over this way, I'll have a look around. Thanks.
My Bluebird SSS Coupe #25
http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=26929

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defdes
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Re: R160 Diff ID

Post by defdes » 19 Sep 2018 17:03

If highway cruising is not your want, you'll be better off with a 4:11(or lower), I have the 3:9 in my FJ20 and I am passively looking for a 4:11.

yenpit
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Re: R160 Diff ID

Post by yenpit » 08 Oct 2018 12:58

Here in the States, the Subbie clutch pack LSD units were available as a factory OPTION on the 84-89 GL & RX series TURBO cars! That said, I walk right past the NON-turbo cars at the junkyards, cuz I have never seen an LSD in a NON-turbo car. I live in Colorado, which has always been one of the highest Subbie saturated States in the country, and these 84-89 LSD units are getting VERY hard to find! I buy every one I find, but again, fewer & far between these days.

FYI here in the States, you can grab an OPEN 4.11 unit out of any 84-91 Subbie (see the silver foil sticker for identification), and swap that LSD unit out of the 3.90 in to the 4.11 or swap the 4.11 ring & pinion in to the 3.90 case. If you swap the LSD unit in, you can often get away with NOT having to set up the backlash........if you swap the ring & pinion, you DO have to set up the backlash. These early 84-91 units had the bolt in inner stub axles, thus a bolt in for a 510. The later 1992-newer diffs had snap rings to hold the stub axles in place, thus you need the custom made inner stub axles to fit into a 510.

I had the silver foil stickers reproduced a few years ago, in the 3.70 & 3.90 & 4.11, both "SUBARU" & "NISSAN", otherwise identical to the OEM sticker. PM me if interested!

TJ
72 510 4dr
1965 Mustang GT Coupe
2003 Saturn LW300 - wow!
LOTS of 510 parts!

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