Rebuild, replace or swap moms 510 carb/engine?

[510wagon]

O shoot here is the attachment

[James]

The points are probably a major point of your troubles. Get that and the timing sorted and then mess with the carb.
While I agree with Mike on the NGK - I have run champions and they work well.
Where are you located exactly? You look like you are well on your way to getting this sorted. If you need additional tuning help - I'm in laguna beach - and occasionally head to Glendale.

[510wagon]

Thank you James! I’m in the city or Azusa, just off the 210 freeway and Azusa Ave. yeah I hope I get this running right. Whenever I’m running it and it’s running fine, and the bogging hits out of nowhere, man it’s such a bummer. I have to put flashers on and takes me forever to pull over to the side of the road. Cars going around and everything, sucks. My wife doesn’t even want to ride in it anymore because of the unreliability right now. Hopefully this will change for the summer!

The points are probably a major point of your troubles. Get that and the timing sorted and then mess with the carb.
While I agree with Mike on the NGK - I have run champions and they work well.
Where are you located exactly? You look like you are well on your way to getting this sorted. If you need additional tuning help - I'm in laguna beach - and occasionally head to Glendale.

[510wagon]

Update. Replaced points. Set points to 0.020 . Ordered new plugs, wires, rotor and cap, coming in the mail. Checked timing. Have confusion that I hope someone can help me with.

First two pics I’ll post are of the repair manual. It states in blue that the TDC is all the way to the left. But why is the second to the left on my crank pully cut the deepest and why does it have white paint in it?

Second the repair manual states in green that each grove indicates 5 degrees before TDC. But then the next page it states that the 10 degree requirement would be the 4th groove from the left. Would the 4th groove be 15 degrees? If the first groove is 0, second be 5, third be 10, fourth be 15? I’m confused here. Maybe i’m reading it wrong?

Third pic is a diagram of what i’m trying to explain. In yellow is the stationary pointer. The left side in green are the degrees, the right side is the number of grooves. So in the pic the timing is at 25 degrees before TDC am I wrong? If someone can help clarify it would be much appreciated. Thank you

[510wagon]

Here are the other two pics. I don’t use forums often, i’m still trying to learn the interface so please excuse my errors

[510wagon]

I selected all three pics the first two times idk what’s going on. I guess i have to upload one at a time

[510wagon]

Check out how strange this point wore

[510wagon]

I guess a way to check would be to take off the valve cover and line up the cam timing lines for tdc and see where the crank lines up at?

[RMS]

I have not seen a six grove pulley in any of my datsun books.... but the majority of L series I have are single pointer with a 6 grove pulley ?

5 tdc 5 10 15 20 set @ 12 to 14 on regular

[510wagon]

I have not seen a six grove pulley in any of my datsun books.... but the majority of L series I have are single pointer with a 6 grove pulley ?

5 tdc 5 10 15 20 set @ 12 to 14 on regular

Thank you for checking your books. I will set timing once I get home today. Then I’ll take it out for a spin and updat how it’s running now

[Byron510]

Those points are definitely done!
And do make sure you change the condenser at the same time - they fail and wear out just as frequently as the points. On my 68 which doesn't have a ballast resister, it sees to go through condensers quickly.

Checking TDC#1 - just pull the plug and use a screw driver to determine TDC while slowly rotating the puller clock-wise.
No need to pull the valve cover - it won't be that far out!
I just saw a stock pulley yesterday in the shop, I'll go count the marks on it, you have me curious now.

Byron

[James]

I would start with using the deepest cut, painted white as 0 - and then set the timing at 10 (2 marks over). If its 5 degrees advanced - you will know it with pinging, but I'm 99% that the last multi groove pulley was set up this way (both my current cars have single mark on the pulley and the sawtooth timing flag off to the side - later models).

[510wagon]

Alright I just set the timing. I started at the deepest cut with the white paint and went over two notches. See pics.
I just took the car out for a 20 minute spin and it ran fine. Hopefully the points and timing was the issue because like I said before, the problem is sporadic. I’ll let the car cool then keep running it and see if it hold up.

[510wagon]

Yes that is a ac lol. I had it blowing 38 degrees F at one point. I retrofitted it for R134a. But disconnect it because the clutch pully bearings were making noise. But to your point, I didn’t know the emissions were blocked off with the models with ACs. I will check all that as well thanks

is that a ac pump I see poking out ? if so most of the pollution control would have been deleted. evap system should be checked or just block off that vaccume port on the manifold.

[510wagon]

When you say condenser, may capacitor be another name for that?
My model does have a resistor mounted on the fender btw. This is a 72 wagon auto.

And do make sure you change the condenser at the same time - they fail and wear out just as frequently as the points.