New Clutch Slips

Engine, Transmission and related drivetrain.
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Beev
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Joined: 11 Apr 2018 13:49

New Clutch Slips

Post by Beev »

Hello

I am having some issues with my clutch and was hoping I could pick the collective mind about potential issues; I am also sent Baz an email about this but people here might also have a thought. Last year I converted my 510 to a 5 speed 280z non turbo transmission, the standard FS5C71B. For the clutch master and slave I purchased the HCK168G from datsport (http://www.datsport.com/hydraulic-clutc ... reddy.html), super easy install FYI. For the clutch I was tight on funds so I used a cheap M-PACT 06029 clutch from Rock Auto. It is paired with a lightened 225mm flywheel from California Datsun. Prior to installation to make sure I had the correct throwout bearing I followed the instructions on the realm and measured the stack up to be 92mm:
http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.ph ... es#p239666
The issue I am having is the clutch travel auto adjusts to about the first cm of pedal travel and in some cases the clutch will slip under full throttle even between gears. I was wondering if I have done something wrong, is the clutch too cheap and doesn’t provide enough spring back and travel? Is there something else in my setup? I might have to pull my engine and figure now is the time to sort this out.
Thanks for your help,
Bevan
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James
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Joined: 26 Nov 2007 19:58
Location: Laguna Beach, Ca

Re: New Clutch Slips

Post by James »

Do you have the correct fork for the transmission? Also - when you say auto adjust? Not sure what you mean by that. If you adjust it so there is more free play between fork and piston, the clutch should be fully engaged. That would be a first check - I don't remember what the manual says - but I would try between 1/8" and 1/4" of free play and see if it changes anything.
Finished is better than perfect......
Beev
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Re: New Clutch Slips

Post by Beev »

Fork was the only one that came with the transmission, I was told it came out of a running car. My understanding is that hydraulic masters and slaves can account for the wear of the friction plate. Perhaps this isn't correct but there isn't anything to adjust depending on the push rod. I have a adjustable push rod and have tried to move the friction point. The master and slave seems to account for that as it would move back to the previous point. This is why my comment on the clutch not having enough springback.
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bertvorgon
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Location: White Rock, B.C. Canada

Re: New Clutch Slips

Post by bertvorgon »

With engine running, car safely on jack stands, with one hand make sure the clutch lever is retracted as far as possible...with the other hand...can you "feel" if the clutch arm is maybe NOT fully retracting the throw out bearing away from the clutch disc. You will feel a vibration going through the arm as the bearing spins with the clutch.

There has to be something that is not letting the clutch FULLY press onto the disc....not letting go of the fingers on the clutch.

When EXACTLY does the clutch slip...do you have a ton of torque..just kidding...but.....

As James said, I shoot for about 1/8" clutch plate to throw out bearing clearance..I still use the spring type to fully retract the clutch arm.

Make sure you pedal adjustment is not too tight, maybe putting some pre-load on the whole thing.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
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James
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Joined: 26 Nov 2007 19:58
Location: Laguna Beach, Ca

Re: New Clutch Slips

Post by James »

Where did you end up with this?
Finished is better than perfect......
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