Muscle car oil study.

Engine, Transmission and related drivetrain.
Chickenman
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Muscle car oil study.

Post by Chickenman »

This is an interesting study. VOA of ten popular Muscle Car or Hot Rod Synthetic oils. Exactly what we would use. Some surprising results

https://onedrive.live.com/?authkey=%21A ... 07&o=OneUp

Considering that I just had a rocker arm failure and resulting Cam Damage using Drive HR6 10w-40... the results are very interesting.

Failure was probably my fault. Flooded the engine badly when I loaded an incorrect Haltech Tune. There was some fuel dilution. But not a huge amount. Disappointed in the Driven HR6 now. It's NOT a cheap oil at all. Should have handled some fuel dilution. Pretty sure I wouldn't have had this issue with Amsoil 10w-40.

Probably going to switch to Rotella T5 15w-40 or Valvoline VR1.
datzenmike
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by datzenmike »

I run Rotella T4 15w40 and sleep pretty well at night.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
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butters68
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by butters68 »

thats what i'm putting in the slimer, rotella 15 w40
ding ding dong dong all night long long.
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RMS
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by RMS »

been running rotella 15/40 on all my L series and flatheads for over 15 years. the L series also get a "premium" ford 302 oil filter like a Baldwin B2. I do also add 500ml of compcams break in additive to the 5gl pale of rotella T to bump the zddp that they lowered a few years ago........... I should check out the chevron equivalent see if it meets the need and if it can be had for less at the card lock.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
Chickenman
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by Chickenman »

In case anyone was not aware. Glenn at West Coast Nissan stocks the large Nissan Oil filter for L-series engines. Part Number: 15208-43G00 or A5208-43G0A01
Chickenman
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by Chickenman »

Rotella 15w-40 is available as T4 = conventional oil and T5 = Synthetic blend. Which ones are youze guys using??
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butters68
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by butters68 »

t4
ding ding dong dong all night long long.
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icehouse
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by icehouse »

I just poor whatever is cheap or on the free shelf at work. I've never noticed a difference. I rev the hell out of my car. Just change it often unlike most people. It's always gold when I check it. Every 2-3 autox's it gets new oil.
"People don't like it when shit doesn't match their rule of thumb." Sam
datzenmike
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by datzenmike »

Chickenman wrote: 20 Aug 2019 20:50 Rotella 15w-40 is available as T4 = conventional oil and T5 = Synthetic blend. Which ones are youze guys using??

I found that synthetic is so far over the top protection for an L series. It also tends to slip past old or worm seals. I tried it once years ago and a drip formed on the crank pulley. That shit is too expensive to spray all over your engine and it looked like hell. Returned to a conventional oil and the drip slowly disappeared. A newer engine or freshly broken in L series might work but again over priced over protection for the average driver.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
Chickenman
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by Chickenman »

I've used various synthetics since the early 80's. Mainly Amsoil in my Chebies and Rotella T6 or Motul in my Audi. Audi has 270,000 km on it. No leaks and engine is like new. Last year took a 3,000 mile round trip to California. Co-driver had a lead foot. Always running around 90mph on Freeways. Used less than a liter of oil on the whole trip.

My 280Z never used or leaked a drop of oil in the new engine. I think it was operator error that ultimately caused this issue. Not changing oil after fuel contamination. But still...

One thing I really like about synthetics is the ability to cling to surfaces after a long time of not running. This is where they really shine. And dry starts are where 90% of your wear occur. The 280Z can go a month in winter with out starting. I'll probably go back to Amsoil or Motul in my 280Z. But hard to beat Rotella T6 for the price point. Wish they made a 10w-30 CJ spec in T6. Disappointed in the Driven oil.
Last edited by Chickenman on 24 Aug 2019 09:45, edited 1 time in total.
Chickenman
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by Chickenman »

One thing you can do if you want the advantages of Synthetic over mineral and experience leaks. Use one liter of Dino oil during an oil change. That's enough to keep the seals pliable while offering the advantages of a Synthetic.
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by Chickenman »

I take back all the bad words I said about Driven. Oil. I finally got into pulling the Camshaft today and took a REAL hard look at things. The Rocker arms were starting to fatigue flake... but that was probably because this dumb ass hadn't adjusted the Valve clearance in 20,000 Miles!! Yes I'm a dumbass.

So the rocker clearance was really tight. Probably what caused the fatigue flaking. Add to that the Fuel dilution and bad things happened.

But what I thought was some damage to the Cam lobes... turned out to be just the Parkerizing coating wearing off. !!! That's about .001" to .002" max. I Scotch Brighted some of the surface rust off the spare stock E30 cam I had. It came up beautiful. Then I thought, well maybe I'll see how the Race Cam polishes up. Frack me It's perfect!!! It was just the parkerizing coating that was finally wearing through... took 20,000 miles to do that. So I guess the Driven oil is pretty frackin' good after all. !!!
datzenmike
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by datzenmike »

It isn't a matter of keeping the seals 'pliable' it's running synthetic on old gaskets and worn seals that can't squeegee the oil off surfaces to contain it. Look, L series engines last hundreds of thousands of miles with any oil with reasonable ZDDP levels if you change it and the filter when it's needed. The advantages of synthetic just aren't needed on a 50 year old engine.

I've taken rod and main caps off an engine sitting in a wrecking yard for 5 years and they were soaking wet. Cold starts are not that bad, there is almost zero stress on the bearings. Just how much power does it take to spin a crank and rods for 2 seconds till the pressure comes up. Don't go by an electric oil gauge. They have a 15 second or more delay just like your gas gauge, they don't instantly follow the pressure. These are not new car engines that can only exist because of special lubricants made today.

Image

One of these main bearings supports about 150 hp while the other about 70. If you think the 70 hp is on the right you'd be wrong. The right one is from a KA the left is a 4 cylinder L series main bearing. Less bearing equals less friction equals better mileage... and the need for exotic lubricants to handle more hp with less bearing. The advantages of synthetic oils simply does not justify the extra cost. You'll burn through it at the same rate and it will get dirty (diluted) and need changing at the same rate.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
Chickenman
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by Chickenman »

My Chevy Hill Climb engine cost me $12,000 in 2003. This engine would cost me $8 to 10 K CDN . in today's money. Keith knows how hard I run my engines and what parts are in them. I don't mind the extra $$S for the extra protection that Synthetics provide. And I do run this engine at Track days. Too each his own.
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RMS
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Re: Muscle car oil study.

Post by RMS »

I just like the extra detergents in diesel oil. keeps the top end sparkling clean for for when you have a 14mm and 17mm open end wrench in one hand and a set of feeler gauges in the other.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!
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