KA & 510 wiring & ignition questions

[oaklandsyd]

these are the connectors I think that last topic was talking about. they hook up to the "engine bay harness" or the "main harness". neither of which are used in the swap, correct??

so i can pull the wires i need for the relays out of here??

[okayfine]

IIRC, for the early KADEs you'll be pulling your wires from F8 and F9.

[oaklandsyd]

that's what it looks like to me, too.

what about F1 and F5 in those pics?? they go to the main harness and the engine bay harness. should these be pulled out of the efi harness? or will that cause trouble for the ECU??

[okayfine]

that's what it looks like to me, too.

what about F1 and F5 in those pics?? they go to the main harness and the engine bay harness. should these be pulled out of the efi harness? or will that cause trouble for the ECU??

If they don't end up connected to anything, the ECU won't know to care. They're the body harness plugs, they plug into the chassis harness and instrument panel harness, likely. Again, I wired a '95, in which you only use one of the body harness plugs to wire the entire engine.

[icehouse]

Does anyone have a real picture of the F5 plug? I've never seen it before... The F3 plug has the cold start wire (orange) and the temp (IIRC Blue with black) O yes and the tach signal which can also be pulled from the negative side of the coil.

[oaklandsyd]

SO... before i rip into this stuff, you think its ok to eradicate these extra plugs? and any of the wires that start at the ECU Plug that dead end at the F1,F3, or F5 should be pulled out of the CPU terminal??

I wont touch them if theres a chance it'll get messed up. I just don't want extra wires bundled under the dash for no reason.

IceHouse.. according to my diagrams (91 240sx KA24de) these are the f1, f3, and f5 plugs.
F1 - To Main Harness


F3 (just a diode in my harness)


F5 - To Engine Bay Harness

[icehouse]

HAHA O Yeah the fussy plug That's what it should be called F1 has the 3 wires I spoke of earlier (cold start orange, temp blue black IIRC and tach I forget negative side of the coil is where I normally get the signal from)

I don't think the fussy connector has anything good in it. I also always end up leaving the diode, I forget what it's for but I remember tracing it and needing it.... I need to take some better notes. On the S13 the 2 plugs in the engine bay are where all the magic happens

[oaklandsyd]

sweet. so i'll start cleaning it up i guess.

from the F1 plug I should avoid cutting out the Orange, Blue/Black, and the Tach Negative wire?

oh boy. this is gonna be fun.

also. i went to the junk yard and grabbed some relays from a 240. they're the ones that are supposed to be in the loop. will they work for your set up, Icehouse?

[oaklandsyd]

Ok. I've been digging through the wires, getting everything cleaned up and clarified. Just have a few questions about the extra wires from the White & Brown plugs..

Pink = PAIRC Solenoid. Tear it out?? I take it no one uses the PAIRC system, as it was eliminated from s14+ models.
Green/Orange = Neutral Position Switch. keep it? if so, where does it connect?
Blue/Green = AC Relay > EFI Sub Harness. Seems like it connects to the EGR Temp or one of the IACV sensors. Not sure what to do with this wire...
Green/Yellow = ECCS > AC Relay. Cut it huh??
Orange/Blue = ECCS > Condenser Fan Relay. Cut it out??
Green/Blue = Ambient switch.

I'm guessing none of these are important. but I just want to double check so I can write up a good diagram/explanation of what to do with them.

[icehouse]

I don't use any of those wires It gets kinda confusing when there are like 5 million that don't go anywhere. If I have any question about them I leave them long until it runs. I just wired my 3rd yes 3rd s14 SR20DE which I might add is impossible to find a wiring diagram for! I guessed on every wire again.... It worked, the only difference is this time I'm going to take notes. So when I wired it I had a big pile of wires that "might" be important, but I waited until it ran just to make sure You don't know how nice a diagram is until it's not there...

[oaklandsyd]

sounds good, Icehouse. It seems like everything I've done so far has worked. Just gotta finish the rebuild and get it tested out.

I hope to make a sound wiring diagram or 'how-to' once done. Your explanations were pretty great and now that i understand it, i just hope to elaborate and clean up a bit.

[spoolinitup33]

You sound about like I did when I was confused about relays and the wiring in my car. What I did, after asking a million questions, was sit down one night, the wiring harness beside me, and looked through the ECU pin out for the S13 ECU. I'm sure you could find one for a KA on here somewhere. I took most of the covering off of the wires, and traced each one out. If it was a plug I didn't need, like the power steering pressure switch plug, I just looked to see what color the wire was on the plug, looked on the ECU plug to see where that same color wire went in, then looked at the ECU pin out and made sure of what it was for and cut it off. The thing about the relays is that you have to realize the ECU actually provides the ground for the relay coil. You already have the power from the battery coming to the relay coil, then the ECU will ground it and let current pass through the relay contacts.

[oaklandsyd]

MORE WIRING SHIZZ.

I found this on a board somewhere. Ratsun probably.

How much of this is true? How much of this is speculation?
Can you really just remove these things and have the engine perform efficiently?

----------

Here is some more KA-DE info that might be handy to someone doing a swap.
These are things you can remove from the engine and wiring harness and still have the car function perfectly:
-Secondary (post cat) O2 sensor
-Crank angle sensor (located on transmission bell housing -S14 models)
-Intake air temp sensor -usually located in intake tube or air box, This is not used for operating the engine.
-Complete EGR system and associated sensors
-All transmission sensor/switches (except reverse switch, if you want your lights to work)
-All emissions control sensors and actuators

Here is the bare minimum for running the engine:
-Throttle position sensor
-Water temp sensor
-Knock sensor
-MAF sensor
-Injectors
-Distributor/coil
-Primary oxygen sensor
-Idle control motor
-fast idle valve
-Fuel pump

[spoolinitup33]

MORE WIRING SHIZZ.

I found this on a board somewhere. Ratsun probably.

How much of this is true? How much of this is speculation?
Can you really just remove these things and have the engine perform efficiently?

----------

Here is some more KA-DE info that might be handy to someone doing a swap.
These are things you can remove from the engine and wiring harness and still have the car function perfectly:
-Secondary (post cat) O2 sensor
-Crank angle sensor (located on transmission bell housing -S14 models)
-Intake air temp sensor -usually located in intake tube or air box, This is not used for operating the engine.
-Complete EGR system and associated sensors
-All transmission sensor/switches (except reverse switch, if you want your lights to work)
-All emissions control sensors and actuators

Here is the bare minimum for running the engine:
-Throttle position sensor
-Water temp sensor
-Knock sensor
-MAF sensor
-Injectors
-Distributor/coil
-Primary oxygen sensor
-Idle control motor
-fast idle valve
-Fuel pump

It would work fine without all of those sensors. I removed a ton of plugs from my SR harness that went to various sensors and it worked fine. All I have hooked up on mine is as far as the engine harness is: MAF, Cam angle sensor, 02 sensor, knock sensor, water temp sensor, TPS sensor, injectors, and spark plugs. I did away with the tranny sensors, emission stuff, A/C plugs, and the power steering plugs.

[oaklandsyd]

OK.....trouble time.

Just trying to knock out the last bit of wiring, and after reading few things I have about.... 3 questions left.

Will this Diagram for the simplified start with IR Alternator work for the KA swap??
http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/tech ... -ir-ai.jpg

I read IceHouse's post and found this...(http://forum.ratsun.net/showpost.php?p= ... tcount=141)
He says he hooks up the Orange ecu wire to the Yellow and Black wire, which is the Oil Pressure switch in my car. It doesn't run to an IGN source. The BLACK WITH YELLOW however... runs from the ignition to the Starter. is THAT the wire I should splice the Orange wire into??? (alternately, if the Y/B wire is the oil pressure switch, can that be wired to the KAs oil press sensor and will it work?)

lastly.. I picked up these relays from the junkyard. are they the correct ones. from everything i've researched they seem to be correct, but i don't want any mishaps.