Help getting an L16 started

[esimpson]

Hi,

So I swapped my L20 out to an L16, had the 5 speed rebuilt, put rebuilt SU's on it from Z Therapy and I can't get it started. It's probably really basic but I'm to the point of frustration with this that I'm not thinking clearly anymore.

I'm pretty sure this is a timing issue because I have fuel, spark and enough compression to backfire but I am stuck. Before I took the L20 out I took a few photos one of those is below. The others are where I'm at now with the distributor timing when its at top dead center. The L16 I have was out of another 510 and I was told it was running but never heard or saw it.

First pic is the wires as they were with the L20.


Second pic is the rotor in the L16. Is it facing the correct direction or should it be flipped 180º to point at what was plug 1 before?


Third image is the setup from above with 1 set to TDC


Thanks in advance for your help!
eric

[banzai510(hainz)]

crank at zero install dizzy. spindal at 11.28 position. rorotr fits down that will be # 1 then CCW fire order ck with cap on.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_aBTjhJM ... re=related

watch this naked with Cheetos, the whole vid.
http://vimeo.com/19077890

when you think its right ck center coil wire to ground ,sould spark.
ck valve lash. shoot starting fluid in carb since SU dont have Acell pump to squirt gas in there. should at least fire off a little.


using Pertronix make sure to use a POINT COIL and the ballast resisitor

put a tight wrap of elecltrical tape arount the Pertronix wire and I usually add extension and route it on rad core suppert then around the the coil(nice and clean)

[okayfine]

L20B EI distributor has plug wires 180° from where the L16/18 would want them. Simple first test, then you can play with the dizzy drive spindle as Hainz suggests to get everything back the way it should be.

[esimpson]

Thanks Julian! That's what I was looking for. I watched the video but got a little confused after Hainz get's confused. I'll give this a try.

[datzenmike]

If this is at TDC, set the cap on and see if the rotor is under one of the plug wires. If it is or close move the #1 wire to this spot and move all the others around to match it. adjust timing .... done.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Personally I never seen any dizzys point that way when locked down.
But you can put #1 plug wire there and set timming plate in its center position. Via the 10mm boltor adjusting the timming plate via the 8mm bolt underneath. it should work.

As for the confusing part of vid its 1 3 4 2 counter clock wise fire order
1 2 3 4 from front to back on the motor for the spark plugs

[Sealik]

Third image is the setup from above with 1 set to TDC

No 1 cam lobes at 10 and 2???
Hard to tell from pic....but....looks like exhaust (lobe) is pointing straight up?

Spindle at 11:28...notice how the top is offset?

[okayfine]

No 1 cam lobes at 10 and 2???
Hard to tell from pic....but....looks like exhaust (lobe) is pointing straight up?

Yeah, I couldn't really tell from the angle of the picture, but I assumed TDC meant TDC. If that was TDC then the rotor was pointed around the area of #4 plug, which would jive with my "180° out" theory.

[Sealik]

No 1 cam lobes at 10 and 2???
Hard to tell from pic....but....looks like exhaust (lobe) is pointing straight up?

Yeah, I couldn't really tell from the angle of the picture, but I assumed TDC meant TDC. If that was TDC then the rotor was pointed around the area of #4 plug, which would jive with my "180° out" theory.

It looks like the cam lobes are before TDC

[okayfine]

Still, the rotor is far away from #1.

[banzai510(hainz)]

going by the photo I bet is is not TDC on the crank. When he does the rotor will be in about the right spot. Loves will come out correct on the cam.
Just plug wires in the correct spot

[Sealik]

Not at TDC and spindle 180 out