Another headlight problem...

[shacks510]

Looking for some help. I'm having an issue that I haven't read about anyone else having. I'll list exactly what's happening.

I am using a 13v power inverter that put out 12amp constant, connect directly to the two fuse box power wires; main battery and headlight wire. White wire and red wire w/yellow stripe.

** Headlight relay has been soaked in vinegar with terminals cleaned with steel wool
** Fuse box has been soaked in vinegar with fuse clips cleaned with steel wool

Power was getting to all headlight plugs, so I knew it was a grounding issue. Ground has been sorted.

On with the issue list:
Light switch pushed to off position - off (obviously)
Light switch pulled out once - parking/running lights. Front and back (not running side markers)
Light switch pulled out twice - nothing but parking/running lights

Light switch pulled out once WITH high beam switched ON - parking/running lights with outside lights ON
Light switch pulled out twice WITH high bean switched ON - parking/running lights with outside lights ON.

Inside lights were tested with direct power, so those aren't burnt.

Ground wires coming traced to the relay both tie into each other, and are then grounded. I'm thinking something is shorting somewhere, but can't figure out where. I took the column cover off to et a look at the turn signal/high beam switch, but everything looks to be fine (I'll probably take it apart and clean everything).

Anyone have guesses as to why this is happening?

Also, if I were to buy a new six prong headlight relay, would it work with stock wiring? Or could the wires be in a different configuration from what they need to be in to work with a new relay.

Any help would be appreciated.

Turn signals do not work either. I have tried two different relays for that. Both relays are functional with hazard switch. That at be part of a potential issue with the column switch. If someone could help out on that too, it would be much appreciated.

[shacks510]

I found a relay that works better. High beams now switch on with column switch. Now the problem is that the low beams are constantly on, even when light switch is pushed all the way in. Must be another ground issue, but can't find where it is. Ideas?

[datzenmike]

Can't be a short. A short is a 'short cut to ground' around some electrical device. In this case a short would fry a wire, blow a fuse or turn the light on. (depending where it is) Something that does not work usually has an open connection.

I am using a 13v power inverter that put out 12amp constant, connect directly to the two fuse box power wires; main battery and headlight wire. White wire and red wire w/yellow stripe.

This is part of the problem. Power is supplied to the two headlight fuses through the Red/Yellow wire from the headlight ON switch. You have 12 volts supplied to this wire and shouldn't. No wonder the low beams won't go off. Take it off and connect power only to the WHITE wire from the fusible link.

[shacks510]

This is part of the problem. Power is supplied to the two headlight fuses through the Red/Yellow wire from the headlight ON switch. You have 12 volts supplied to this wire and shouldn't. No wonder the low beams won't go off. Take it off and connect power only to the WHITE wire from the fusible link.

Thank you Mike! That was my solution. I read the fuse box cover and looked at a diagram and read 12v to both wires, so that's what I went with. I hooked my box up to my positive cable connection I have placed at the firewall so the power would go through everything. Everything works as it should! May need new relays for the hazards & turn signals as they're a bit slow, but other than that, everything is settled. Glad I got this electrical mess sorted.

Ratsun has helped a lot too. I was able to read a lot more answers due to the much higher volume of posts.

Thanks again!

[datzenmike]

The hazard and flasher units back then were usually load dependent. In other words the number of bulbs run on it set the flashing speed. Low idle charge rate or a blown bulb and the flasher would slow or fail to flash. If a trailer was towed the falsher would go crazy. You can get electronic flashers that flash at a set speed and will even flash with a low wattage test lamp. Wrecking yards are full of them. They are heavier and often clear plastic and you can see the capacitors and coils inside.