lets talk seam sealers

Paint, body preparation and modification, interior work and electrical
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RMS
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lets talk seam sealers

Post by RMS » 26 Oct 2014 09:28

as I striped my 68 I noticed four different types of seam sealer. there was a hard black and white, a flexible white and a gummy white sealer.
I gather that many advancements have been made in sealers since 68 but what product is right for what area on the car? does the paint system chosen for the car dictate what products can be used? do I put the sealer DTM or on the epoxy primer or the sanding primer? will a 1K sealer do it all or will a self leveling or controlled flow two part epoxy product give a better finale finish?

I have already bought into Sherwin Williams Genesis Paint System starting with two part epoxy primer

any insight is greatly appreciated.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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RMS
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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by RMS » 30 Oct 2014 10:17

never mind I found a site dedicated to painting http://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php just thought I would ask here, 510 guys know best, they drive 510s :D

decided I will use a 2k seam sealer. my paint shop is good they will lend me an applicator :mrgreen:
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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S15DET
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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by S15DET » 30 Oct 2014 10:34

Same seam sealer everywhere?

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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by OUTthere » 30 Oct 2014 11:28

I have been watching this post, waiting for some advice as well. My car came with clear house hold window caulking every where.

3m has some sealer I have used in the past. Some of my friends have mentioned some products made by a company called Lord. POR makes a putty that turns rock hard - don't know why I mentioned that one but its all I know!

Thats my worthless 2 cents of input.

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RMS
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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by RMS » 30 Oct 2014 12:08

S15DET wrote:Same seam sealer everywhere?

I have only read 40 pages so far @ autobody101 and at this time can not say if the the same sealer will be used everywhere. however on some places on the 510 like the rear shock mount to wheel well or door gutter to inner skin does not appear to be sealer but foam.
OUTthere wrote: My car came with clear house hold window caulking every where.
nasty! I got a m37 cab with the same thing. spent months failing to remove the stuff and everywhere it was laid was a line of rust jacks.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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S15DET
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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by S15DET » 30 Oct 2014 12:33

Please share what you learn, I'm interested.
What would one use on the body seam that goes from each rear window lower corner to the trunk corners?

What about a seam from welding in floors, what goes there?

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defdes
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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by defdes » 30 Oct 2014 15:51

S15DET wrote:Please share what you learn, I'm interested.
What would one use on the body seam that goes from each rear window lower corner to the trunk corners?

What about a seam from welding in floors, what goes there?
Yeah....and what about the seam between the bolt on rear fenders and bed panels on my WM300???!!!

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RMS
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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by RMS » 30 Oct 2014 22:11

defdes wrote:
S15DET wrote:Please share what you learn, I'm interested.
What would one use on the body seam that goes from each rear window lower corner to the trunk corners?

What about a seam from welding in floors, what goes there?
Yeah....and what about the seam between the bolt on rear fenders and bed panels on my WM300???!!!
for the first I would think http://www.semproducts.com/automotive-f ... thane-foamImagefrom the factory this area of the 510 get a firm ss. I think it would be better to have something with lots of flex (some one always leans on the 1/4s)
the second I would think http://www.semproducts.com/automotive-s ... eam-sealerImageI think this product would be good for hiding floor repairs and outer body seams like roof to 1/4 /cowl, drip rail.... it is self leveling and would be easy to do in a taped off area. flows more with heat. feather the edges lay on more 2k primer then paint.
I mention this brand only because my local paint shop carries it.


for the wm300 vw bug fender welting and if you want to keep out all the water sealing it tight. use butyl tape works well and is easy to get off but it will leach out oil over time but oil slows rust :mrgreen: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-PV-444-54 ... 28&vxp=mtr Image
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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defdes
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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by defdes » 02 Nov 2014 12:18

^^^^^^Thanks, I like that. I just put the final coat of paint on them.

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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by tycot1 » 02 Nov 2014 13:39

lordco, pro form pf 211. it is paintable after an hour and is great stuff. $12 tube
http://bigtimemotors.ca 1972 datsun 510 220 hp ka "couped", 1971 510 westwood champ gt4 '81& "83, 1979 550 hp trans am, 1962 cadillac hrdtp, 2005 subaru sti, 1999 triumph daytona 955i.

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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by 510rob » 02 Nov 2014 16:14


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RMS
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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by RMS » 02 Nov 2014 22:37

I have used the pro form sealer before as it was the most readily available and recommended product.

I used pro form on my wagon and 6inches of rust it was easy to apply sanded with 80 and balled with 240 even after giving it a week :( . five years on there are a few cracks(minimal shrinkage). harder to say for 6inches as it has 2 gallons of paintable rubberized undercoating on the floor.

I also used it to seal the tool box from the bead floor on a 53 m37 two years ago. just last month we striped the bed and separated the tool box. I was surprised after recommending the pro form that it was as hard as a rock and chipped off with a happer. if we had done some gnarly trails and got the truck all twisted up I bet the tool box would have leaked.
after reading the teck sheets I now know why "THIS PRODUCT REQUIRES MOISTURE IN AIR TO FULLY CURE" so on the m37 it became rock like because it was in a wet environment casing it to over harden. I live in a rain forest below sea level.

"Hazardous polymerization.....Contact with moisture, other materials that react with isocyanates, or temperatures above 177C, may cause polymerization."

I want a sealer that reacts, not a UV kick, moisture cure, or solvent based product. that could be scrape off put in a cup with solvents and reapplied.

im trying to just say no to 1k products. 2k all the way 8) Im even going to try a new 2 pac epoxy clear that according to the rep wont yellow with uv. :lol: don't worry it's only going under the car.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by Three B's Racing » 03 Nov 2014 07:52

When I built my 510 back in `97, I used a 3M automotive seam sealer grey in color and paintable. Don't remember the exact product code but today 17 years later that sealer is as good as the day I applied it, no cracks, shrinkage, peeling or cracking. I got the exact product in my build sheet<--where ever that is :shock:
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Re: lets talk seam sealers

Post by pmaknefob » 28 Mar 2015 18:21

I use the sealer that Mercedes Benz Dealers sell in their parts department. It comes in a cartridge, and is called: Sikaflex 221i It's white, has really good adhesion, and is quite tough, like rubber when dry, and can be painted the next day. It can be smoothed out here and there with a spray of solvent, then brushed if needed. It comes from Germany, and has the usual tapered screw on nozzle that can be cut to make a larger bead if desired, but I have about 12-15 nozzles of all shapes and sizes that I made from metal. I use a large nut that screws onto the cartridge, with one end of the nut capped with a 1mm steel plate silver soldered or welded on to it, with the correct size hole drilled in it to accept various sizes of thin wall brass tubes* soldered to the plate with 60/40 solder. With a tube 2" long, 3/16th" diamater, and the tip flattened to a chisle shape with a slot opening of 1mm, you can lay down an awesome low bead on a door skin jamb, and then only wipe the intersecting corners with a small brush. I solder on a guide to the side of the brass tube made from large paper clip wire that keeps it in line with the edge of the door, trunk lid etc... After useing them I clean them up with Enamel Reducer.

* 12" long tubing bought at hobby/art supply stores.

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