Door Mounting and Alignment ???

Paint, body preparation and modification, interior work and electrical
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Button
Posts: 144
Joined: 25 Jun 2014 14:13
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA..

Door Mounting and Alignment ???

Post by Button » 02 Sep 2018 14:34

Hey guys, after months away from my 510 project I am finally back in the garage and I am now mounting the doors on my 72 two door.

I have no idea how to align the doors. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to get the doors aligned well? Should I remove the front fenders and align those later? I Have searched here but couldn't find anything. I don't understand how laying inverted over the seats, trying to reach impossibly positioned hinge bolts (where you cant get any light to, to see what you are doing) how you you are supposed to get these doors aligned.

I rebuilt the hinges so they aren't sagging. Anyways I already got enough paint chips trying on my own so I thought I would ask here. I am stumped.

Thanks.

Chris

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MikeY
Posts: 415
Joined: 26 Jun 2003 16:25
Location: Qualicum Van Isle

Re: Door Mounting and Alignment ???

Post by MikeY » 02 Sep 2018 16:51

I don't know if there is a trick. If the fender is loose and easily unbolts, I take it off. It's just in the way. You make the door fit the rocker and quarter panel. I like to have the hinges off the door. Bolt them to the car high and forward. It's the rocker I don't want to chip. And with the fender off you don't have to worry about hitting it. I've never hit the top of the window frame on the car body. Then bolt the door to the hinges. By your self it can be trickey. Again with no fender access to the bolts when the door is closed is good to tighten them up. Then you can see where your at, gap wise. Loosen the hinges at the body a bit and wiggle the door into a better fit. Remember the gaps are pretty large. Then lay the fender on to get a look. Nothing is perfect and comprises will be made. Good luck sorry about the chips. Been there done that.

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RMS
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Re: Door Mounting and Alignment ???

Post by RMS » 02 Sep 2018 23:28

I do it opposite to mike. fender on (cowl gap and height set to hood), hinge on door (door side of the hinge has nil for adjustment). you will want the striker plate off if removed or not properly adjusted before removing door. tap and lube threads in hinge, inspect bolts for fitment, apply never seize to mounting surface of hinge, bolts and washers. (allows for easy movement for fine adjust and lets you see how much you have moved the hinge or striker when you get there). place the 6 bolts on the floor pan under the hinge. along with with a 1/4 in ratchet and a short extension or a screw driver with a 12mm socket. I then tape two 2mm/5mm stepped plastic tile spacers on the rocker to set the lower gap @ 5mm and to rest the door on.
* the next operation is done blind and the height of the car will dictate the ease if you dont have the skills get a friend on the inside.*
with the window down or out the door is easily held in place with one hand. facing the door, palm on frame fingers in the gutter. use your left hand on the drivers side gutter and frame to support the door. keep your hand close to the windshield. reach across your body though the window with your right hand pick up the wench with bolt and install the forward most bolt on the top hinge first. make it tight.(it is the easiest. then install the forward most bolt on the lower hinge. with the two bolts snug you can relax your hand (dont remove it) and use a third 5mm thick tile spacer to check the forward and aft gaps. if your out lightly loosen the two bolts and gently squeeze a jamb in the direction you want the door to travel. once satisfied its ruffed in, install the remaining bolts and tighten. clean off the excess never seize and stand back. do all the lines flow together, are the gaps strait, does the door open and close smoothly... if not losses bolts leaving (the forward ones for last)and squeeze a jamb. this job can be laborious if the rockers were put on wrong or lots of welding has taken place around the lower hinge. the door will only move up down forward and back in a single plain. if it looks like its too far in or hitting the gutter when opened a shim will be needed.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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MikeY
Posts: 415
Joined: 26 Jun 2003 16:25
Location: Qualicum Van Isle

Re: Door Mounting and Alignment ???

Post by MikeY » 03 Sep 2018 07:23

I will agree and forgot to mention tapping the threads on the holes and bolts is important. I probably take doors off and on many times throughout a restoration. You should be able to thread them in by hand. And as there is no adjustment from hinge to door you could set the door early in the job and just remove the door and leave the hinges in place. But I like to get paint on the whole car and hinge.

Button
Posts: 144
Joined: 25 Jun 2014 14:13
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA..

Re: Door Mounting and Alignment ???

Post by Button » 03 Sep 2018 12:46

Thank you guys for the help, it is incredibly useful.

I just got my passenger fender off after a lot of work. Man there was a lot of crap under the fender at the top of the frame rail so i'm glad I took it off to clean all of that up. I will start looking around here but does anyone know off hand where to get new rubber or welts for putting the fenders back on?

Anyways I will keep you posted on my progress.

Chris

yenpit
Posts: 1271
Joined: 07 Jul 2006 20:14
Location: Denver Colorado

Re: Door Mounting and Alignment ???

Post by yenpit » 06 Sep 2018 12:24

I just saw the fender rubber seals available reproduction.............

http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-510-parts.html

TJ
72 510 4dr
80 720 pickup
LOTS of parts!
2000 Impreza Outback Sport
2002 Forester

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