New from Sunny South Africa

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bertvorgon
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby bertvorgon » 12 Apr 2016 10:27

For what it is worth, I have never had a balance problem with any of my wheels on studs, and that is to 135MPH.

I had American Racing Libras, Panasports, then RIKEN, and now VTO wheels, 15", so dynamic force is high, and never problem.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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okayfine
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby okayfine » 12 Apr 2016 18:12

If you're still using the stock 510 hubs up front, you won't have any sort of register/boss to be centric to. You mention Primera discs and calipers, but 510 struts, so I assume you're stick with the stock pieces there.

Same for the rear - even the 200SX rear disc conversion that's popular in the US has zero register/boss. If the R30 discs do, then you're in business there. But hub-centric predates the 510 by a fair ways, which is to say plenty of people have put non hub-centric wheels on 510s for plenty of years.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Heinrich » 12 Apr 2016 22:32

Thank you Gentlemen.

i am indeed sticking with 510 struts and hubs.
this un-complicates the brake conversion quite a bit.

only some longer studs, some 4mm spacers and bob's your uncle.

just a note:
the wheels i have is +35 offset, before fitting/trying them on i thought i will need a considerably thicker spacer.
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.

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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Heinrich » 09 May 2016 23:00

Good morning all.

a little update.

finished both rear bottom fenders.
not perfect but a LOT better than it was, and at least it is now metal again, not a combination of poorly applied fiberglass and filler.

this is the new vs old right trunk drop.
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pc screenshot

new right side welded in
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photo hosting sites

left side welded in
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image hoster

this is the start of the boot frame fix
this will be brazed in, i have started doing that although there is no pic yet.
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how do you print screen


once the boot frame is done, all the major rust issues have been adressed.
only a couple of small patches left.

next big task after this is to clean up and modify the rear subframe with the new diff and 100mm hole for the exhaust, then clean, stonechip and paint the underside of the car before bolting the sub back.

i also bought a bunch of stuff over the weekend.basically a complete car minus body, engine and suspension.with an extra frond and rear windshield, and an extra set of rear lights.
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image hosting free no registration

i am quite eager to get the car back on ts wheel so i can fit the engine and gearbox.
Last edited by Heinrich on 09 May 2016 23:53, edited 1 time in total.
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.

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two_68_510s
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby two_68_510s » 09 May 2016 23:24

WOW, what a great load of goodies!! Nice metal work!
Joel

2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
74 Jensen Healey

“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal

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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Heinrich » 02 Jun 2016 01:54

Good morning Gentlemen.

i need some info/advice about under car coatings.

my plan thus far is to clean to bare metal , prime, stone chip and then paint it the same color as the body is going to be.
would prime and paint be OK for underneath without the stone chip?

i would very much like the under side painted, so no polyurethane coatings that can not be painted over.

the stone chip i am referring to.
http://www.duram.co.za/products/duram-88-stone-chip/
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.

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510wizard
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby 510wizard » 02 Jun 2016 07:24

I would see if you can get UPOL Gravitex, it's the stone guard used on German cars, (I was turned on to it by a guy that was the head of the body shop for Porsche North America). It is paintable and is really tuff, can be also tinted. I have used lots of it and its great stuff.

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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Heinrich » 02 Jun 2016 22:48

510wizard, thank you. i will see if i can get some locally.
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.

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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Heinrich » 18 Jul 2016 04:03

time for an update

the rear of the car except for the boot lid is now complete.

i had to cut some pieces from my donor car, the left top of the fender, and a lot from the rear panel.

my previous attempt did not turn out so well for the top left of the boot.
here is my next attempt.
the lip on the inside going in sourced from donor car.

Imagescreen capture windows 7

outside top fender going on.

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cleaning up the donor rear end.

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the donor piece

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all tacked in
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i removed it after this and had it sandblasted.

the finished product

Imagescreen capture windows 7
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.

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Byron510
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Byron510 » 19 Jul 2016 06:09

What did the donor car have for tail lights? That's an interesting panel!

Great work, I would think that lining up the trunk body lines will be quite the chore. Keep the photos coming.

Byron
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because the opposite never works.

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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Heinrich » 20 Jul 2016 05:49

Byron.

the donor had a very crude truck lamp conversion.(the more i take that car apart the more i am glad it is not on the road anymore)
welded plates over the stock light hole and body filler galore.

best pic i have:
Imagefree upload

i was scared of the body line line up, and it is not perfect.but at least it is whole again.
same with the metal that connects the boot lip and the fender.i had to replace both as there was basically nothing on both cars.it is going to need a little bit of filler but i suppose that is fine.

the 2 big things that still has to happen on the car rust repair/body fix wise, is the left rear lip above the wheel needs to be replaced and i need to cut the right traction rod mounting off of the donor and replace mine, i think it was hurt/torn off at some point and very badly welded back on.
i am quite scared of the traction rod mount as it is a very important piece of what keeps the wheel there :shock:
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.

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Byron510
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Byron510 » 20 Jul 2016 09:58

Interesting couple of donor cars. I see the beige car has been converted to the later style couple or GL tail lights with the larger openings.

When I was younger, here in Maple Ridge there was a 4 dr with rear tail lights installed from an early 60's Chevy Impala. It actually looked ok. The car is no longer around.

I like you secured work area, I love red bricks.

Keep up the good work, and do keep us posted.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Heinrich » 20 Jul 2016 22:44

Byron510 wrote:Interesting couple of donor cars. I see the beige car has been converted to the later style couple or GL tail lights with the larger openings.


Byron


the beige car is the one i am building, the green one is the donor.

the above pic was taken at a friends place ,they were only stored there until i had a workshop of my own.
that pic was taken in 2012(iirc)
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.

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Heinrich
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby Heinrich » 15 Aug 2016 02:23

Good morning all.

i need some info regarding how/where exactly i should mount my engine.

i am essentially using a FWD(PULSAR GTIR engine) that has the bottom sump not parallel to the bottom of the engine block.

should the bottom of the sump be parallel to the bottom of the x member?or is it not all that important?
or should i focus on getting the valve cover level with the car?

and also , at what angle should the engine and gearbox be from front to back measured against the side sills of the car?

forgive me for all the questions, but it is my first time.

thanx in advance.
Progress is slow, but it is progress non the less.

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two_68_510s
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Re: New from Sunny South Africa

Postby two_68_510s » 15 Aug 2016 07:00

Are you using the sub-frame from a Pulsar? Or fabricating adapters? Steering packaging? You are ambitious!
Joel

2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
74 Jensen Healey

“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal


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