My island '74 710
Re: My island '74 710
Looks like a possible 23K car....also, that Nichira muffler is OEM
On another note......is there a way to post pics without the right part of it MIA?
On another note......is there a way to post pics without the right part of it MIA?
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Re: My island '74 710
The front left fender looks like it's yellow under the paint chips and the grill has blue over spray on it so both may have been in a small fender bender and replaced. The whole car was repainted with the same matching color so it's hard to find but there is some over spray.
Doug there's nothing wrong with your posting of pictures. It's to do with how they are displayed on the Realm. Nature of the beast.
Doug there's nothing wrong with your posting of pictures. It's to do with how they are displayed on the Realm. Nature of the beast.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
Re: My island '74 710
...."Doug there's nothing wrong with your posting of pictures. It's to do with how they are displayed on the Realm. Nature of the beast....."
I see...but it seems that the most 'important' part of the pic (right) is missing
Looks like your pics are all centered.... ...I shall investigate further
I see...but it seems that the most 'important' part of the pic (right) is missing
Looks like your pics are all centered.... ...I shall investigate further
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Re: My island '74 710
Wow 6 hrs of parts robbing a 710 Thursday. Fri. my back and back of legs are so stiff from leaning in to unbolt stuff!! I got:
front parking light, two sets of tail lights with wiring.
Two grills, and clip that holds the hood prop.
Washer reservoir, wiper motor, wiper arms and cowl.
L20B rad, water pump and three starters with cable.
Clutch master, line and slave.
good tight steering box, complete steering column.
Dash cluster complete and dash pad, glove box,
complete heater assy.
Rear window and trim. ... and more.
I may go back for the headliner, U-67 head, carbs.
Have to ask, does this look like a 510 box to anyone?
front parking light, two sets of tail lights with wiring.
Two grills, and clip that holds the hood prop.
Washer reservoir, wiper motor, wiper arms and cowl.
L20B rad, water pump and three starters with cable.
Clutch master, line and slave.
good tight steering box, complete steering column.
Dash cluster complete and dash pad, glove box,
complete heater assy.
Rear window and trim. ... and more.
I may go back for the headliner, U-67 head, carbs.
Have to ask, does this look like a 510 box to anyone?
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
Re: My island '74 710
Nope, 510's are diffrnt'.... 3 bolts on the cover plate, softer shape and a straighter steering arm.
- bertvorgon
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Re: My island '74 710
Looks like my HL510 box.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
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Re: My island '74 710
Well she's licensed for the road now, so I drove it into the front yard to finish it up. Replaced the 200sx alt with a 720 alt and the light went out and it's now charging at 14.72! I guess that old S110 was no good and my wiring conversion from external to internal regulator was ok.
Bled all for brakes and got all the black fluid out and exchanged for DOT4. Still have only rears and the low pressure warning light comes on when stopping. I have a S110 7/8 master and booster to try. Booster won't quite fit but master does. Bled it this morning and now have front brakes. They were a little stiff to work and the motor ran shitty until I realized that I hadn't hooked up the booster vacuum line. Runs just fine now and took it for a spin to Cumberland. Too bad I couldn't compare the 3/4" master to the 7/8" . All I know is you slam the brakes and the front end almost scrapes the pavement.
Has a huge stutter just above idle and the accelerator pump is not working. After removing it about 8 times I found it was the second ball valve inside the carb just behind the squirter that was stuck open. When the accelerator pump lifts up to suck in more gas from the bowl it was sucking in air instead. Hesitation now gone.
Last week fresh from the back yard
Today I waxed it. Boy it needs a good paint job.
Going to take several polishes to get all the mold off. The paint is shiny under the mold and dull every where else. Must not worry too much about something that won't get me to Canby any quicker, safer or easier. Focus.
Bled all for brakes and got all the black fluid out and exchanged for DOT4. Still have only rears and the low pressure warning light comes on when stopping. I have a S110 7/8 master and booster to try. Booster won't quite fit but master does. Bled it this morning and now have front brakes. They were a little stiff to work and the motor ran shitty until I realized that I hadn't hooked up the booster vacuum line. Runs just fine now and took it for a spin to Cumberland. Too bad I couldn't compare the 3/4" master to the 7/8" . All I know is you slam the brakes and the front end almost scrapes the pavement.
Has a huge stutter just above idle and the accelerator pump is not working. After removing it about 8 times I found it was the second ball valve inside the carb just behind the squirter that was stuck open. When the accelerator pump lifts up to suck in more gas from the bowl it was sucking in air instead. Hesitation now gone.
Last week fresh from the back yard
Today I waxed it. Boy it needs a good paint job.
Going to take several polishes to get all the mold off. The paint is shiny under the mold and dull every where else. Must not worry too much about something that won't get me to Canby any quicker, safer or easier. Focus.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
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Re: My island '74 710
Problem Fri night, I guess it's not charging now. Rather than figure it out to find the 720 alt is bad I spent Sat. converting a 90 amp KA alt to fit. Made a jumper to connect it to the stock system:
The charge wire is massive so I put a lug on it and connected to the starter.
Works perfectly! Swapped newer electronic flashers in to replace the load dependent ones and if flashes much faster. Fixed door. trunk locks and replaced the ignition switch. Usually the mounting bolts need to be drilled out and replaced but I cut slots in them and used a screw driver to remove.
There is a reluctance of the solenoid to 'click in' when the key is turned. Did this with the old switch and I changed the starter (found that I have 8 L starters and one SD) so the voltage on the start wire must be low. Starts perfectly if I short the starter terminals with a wrench. Guess I will have to make a hot start relay up for it.
Got some thin board today and made replacement covers for the gas tank and spare tire well.
The black rubber mat will cover the bottom one.
The charge wire is massive so I put a lug on it and connected to the starter.
Works perfectly! Swapped newer electronic flashers in to replace the load dependent ones and if flashes much faster. Fixed door. trunk locks and replaced the ignition switch. Usually the mounting bolts need to be drilled out and replaced but I cut slots in them and used a screw driver to remove.
There is a reluctance of the solenoid to 'click in' when the key is turned. Did this with the old switch and I changed the starter (found that I have 8 L starters and one SD) so the voltage on the start wire must be low. Starts perfectly if I short the starter terminals with a wrench. Guess I will have to make a hot start relay up for it.
Got some thin board today and made replacement covers for the gas tank and spare tire well.
The black rubber mat will cover the bottom one.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
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Re: My island '74 710
Installed a hot start relay yesterday to cure the click click start problem. Had previously changed the ignition for another problem and also the starter, so this was all that was left. It had only 5-8 volts to the solenoid, now has 12. Starts every time now.
Found the auto trans interlock relay and used the output to energize a second relay. The second relay is normally open. When energized it connects a 12 volt source to the starter solenoid.
Used a Nissan relay from a 720. 1 is the start signal from the key via the interlock and 2 is to ground. 3 is 12 volt supply and 5 goes to the starter solenoid.
Wiring and new relay tucks neatly out of sight with the other relays, well it is when the plastic cover is on.
Temp gauge has only ever risen one or two needle widths, so I pulled the thermostat out, only broke one of the bolts. The thermostat has a rubber seal that was puckered and wouldn't close.
Heat and vise grips and the broken bolt came out, how often does that happen?
All together, and now the rad leaks or it always did and now more apparent. There was a crack around the top rad spout.
Removed it and the grill to do it right and... it soldered up the first try. Replaced the top rad hose as it was a tight fitting home made abortion and likely the cause if the stress crack. Had no time to test it and had to run into town. The gauge jumped to the run range in 3KM and 1/3 of the way into the run range in 4km. Seems to run a bit better too. Swapped in two 'new' horns and now it doesn't sound like a cow.
Found the auto trans interlock relay and used the output to energize a second relay. The second relay is normally open. When energized it connects a 12 volt source to the starter solenoid.
Used a Nissan relay from a 720. 1 is the start signal from the key via the interlock and 2 is to ground. 3 is 12 volt supply and 5 goes to the starter solenoid.
Wiring and new relay tucks neatly out of sight with the other relays, well it is when the plastic cover is on.
Temp gauge has only ever risen one or two needle widths, so I pulled the thermostat out, only broke one of the bolts. The thermostat has a rubber seal that was puckered and wouldn't close.
Heat and vise grips and the broken bolt came out, how often does that happen?
All together, and now the rad leaks or it always did and now more apparent. There was a crack around the top rad spout.
Removed it and the grill to do it right and... it soldered up the first try. Replaced the top rad hose as it was a tight fitting home made abortion and likely the cause if the stress crack. Had no time to test it and had to run into town. The gauge jumped to the run range in 3KM and 1/3 of the way into the run range in 4km. Seems to run a bit better too. Swapped in two 'new' horns and now it doesn't sound like a cow.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
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Re: My island '74 710
This weekend I want to install a high volume oil pump and an EI dizzy. These things are just sitting around so I'll put them to work. I'll harvest the one on my retired L20B from the truck. It's been sitting out on the lawn for almost two years.
Points dizzy out and drive spindle held so it won't fall out when the oil pump is removed. Hokey but worked.
Points coil and ballast removed. I thought EI coils were smaller??? Some might be but this one (left side) from a '78 remote igniter sure looks the same as the points coil it replaces...
Coil installed with home made wire harness to EI dizzy.
Time to swap the oil pump. Two oil pumps... which is which??
Only way I know is to remove and look in the oil inlet port. The inlet is the oval shaped hole beside the shaft. The one below, if you look in you can just see the flat surface of the trochoid rotors.
See the difference? These are 14% taller and much easier to see.
Here is the KA24E high volume oil pump installed. Looks just like the L18 one... no way to tell from the outside. Oddly enough the KA oil pump is now sharing the same motor as it's old friend the 80 amp alternator that came off the same KA.
Okay, for some reason the dizzy does not position properly so I spent an hour mixing and matching bases and flipping plates. Found this one that might be from a Z series dizzy?
I had to enlarge the one slot and oval a hole and it is on a different L pedestal
When mounted the #1 is towards the intake and the matchbox to the rad with the vacuum advance snug to the rad hose. In the thermostat housing there is a temp switch beside the temp gauge sender that tells the EGR when the motor is warm and can start working. It was in the way so I removed and used a bung from an old intake to plug it. So from now on there will be no more ERG.
I'll be damned but with everything that was removed and changed and the custom wire harness and adjustment plate, I stabbed the throttle 3 times and cranked an it fired up and runs just fine. I'll have to drive and fine tune the timing. Would that all things would work the first time.
There is a black wire that was the connection between the points and the coil. Its just to the right of the yellow temp sender wire above. Seeing as how I made my own mini harness and this isn't needed now I plugged the dizzy end into the module ground lug and the other end near the coil I plugged into a spare lug and grounded it. Just a little ground insurance.
Points dizzy out and drive spindle held so it won't fall out when the oil pump is removed. Hokey but worked.
Points coil and ballast removed. I thought EI coils were smaller??? Some might be but this one (left side) from a '78 remote igniter sure looks the same as the points coil it replaces...
Coil installed with home made wire harness to EI dizzy.
Time to swap the oil pump. Two oil pumps... which is which??
Only way I know is to remove and look in the oil inlet port. The inlet is the oval shaped hole beside the shaft. The one below, if you look in you can just see the flat surface of the trochoid rotors.
See the difference? These are 14% taller and much easier to see.
Here is the KA24E high volume oil pump installed. Looks just like the L18 one... no way to tell from the outside. Oddly enough the KA oil pump is now sharing the same motor as it's old friend the 80 amp alternator that came off the same KA.
Okay, for some reason the dizzy does not position properly so I spent an hour mixing and matching bases and flipping plates. Found this one that might be from a Z series dizzy?
I had to enlarge the one slot and oval a hole and it is on a different L pedestal
When mounted the #1 is towards the intake and the matchbox to the rad with the vacuum advance snug to the rad hose. In the thermostat housing there is a temp switch beside the temp gauge sender that tells the EGR when the motor is warm and can start working. It was in the way so I removed and used a bung from an old intake to plug it. So from now on there will be no more ERG.
I'll be damned but with everything that was removed and changed and the custom wire harness and adjustment plate, I stabbed the throttle 3 times and cranked an it fired up and runs just fine. I'll have to drive and fine tune the timing. Would that all things would work the first time.
There is a black wire that was the connection between the points and the coil. Its just to the right of the yellow temp sender wire above. Seeing as how I made my own mini harness and this isn't needed now I plugged the dizzy end into the module ground lug and the other end near the coil I plugged into a spare lug and grounded it. Just a little ground insurance.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
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Re: My island '74 710
That rad hose/vacuum advance is starting to bug me... it's so close. While digging in my parts shed, Jason has seen it, I found an L head with a three bolt thermostat cover and another that didn't come forward but was almost vertical. I'll see if I can find and maybe switch it. Wheeeeee!
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
Re: My island '74 710
That parts shed of yours is like magic Mike ! The most neat improbable parts come out of everywhere !
Jason
Re: My island '74 710
Mike,
I ignore the timing marks when I do the EI swap, and put #1 at the rad (on the dist cap) where it’s supposed to be. This also orients the vacuum advance mechanism out in the open. The motor won't care where #1 is placed, as long as the contacts line up at the right time!
The timing plate that I have found works best is the one used on the Z 6 cyl. cars. No mods required, but you will have to drop the oil pump and time the dist/oil pump shaft until you get it right. I usually place both adjustments in the middle, and line it up best you can. We can usually get away with 10 to 12 degrees advance on premium fuel.
Look forward to seeing the car at Canby.
Byron
I ignore the timing marks when I do the EI swap, and put #1 at the rad (on the dist cap) where it’s supposed to be. This also orients the vacuum advance mechanism out in the open. The motor won't care where #1 is placed, as long as the contacts line up at the right time!
The timing plate that I have found works best is the one used on the Z 6 cyl. cars. No mods required, but you will have to drop the oil pump and time the dist/oil pump shaft until you get it right. I usually place both adjustments in the middle, and line it up best you can. We can usually get away with 10 to 12 degrees advance on premium fuel.
Look forward to seeing the car at Canby.
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.
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Re: My island '74 710
If you dont like the acuum adj near the rad hose move the mount 180 so the housing will move 180 . The rotor will be point ing at the same spot but now need to move the wires sice they will be 180 off.
But you know this already
But you know this already