BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

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RONSLYCHUK
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby RONSLYCHUK » 24 Jul 2012 06:33

Wow Keith,that plane almost has as many gauges as your 510----ha ha!

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two_68_510s
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby two_68_510s » 24 Jul 2012 09:44

Reminds me of my cousins strip in his backyard out in Clarksville Tenn.
Also very bumpy!!
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Joel

2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
74 Jensen Healey

“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal

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okayfine
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby okayfine » 24 Jul 2012 10:28

two_68_510s wrote:Reminds me of my cousins strip in his backyard out in Clarksville Tenn.
Also very bumpy!!


Why don't you just meet him at the station?
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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two_68_510s
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby two_68_510s » 24 Jul 2012 10:44

:lol: :lol:
Joel

2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
74 Jensen Healey

“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal

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bertvorgon
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby bertvorgon » 29 Jul 2012 08:40

Now that I have the modded gas pedal, it points out even more the inconsistent pedal height. RATS, it actually is even worse to drive now.

Thursday this week is tackle the brakes day, bleed, new pads, full visual inspection to try to see what is going on.

I still am leaning to a seal issue, pulling the pads to far back in.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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bertvorgon
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby bertvorgon » 03 Nov 2012 08:37

Been awhile since I updated. In the continuing saga of my brakes, it appears I was right all along. It is taper wear/pad knock back issue.

I put new front hub bearing assembly's in yesterday, having had a "growl" for some time. Seems these cars are known for wheel bearing problems. These have 80,000 KM on them at this point. Funny, my Toyota GTS had 200, 000+ Km on them before I had to put some fresh ones in, and I drove the hell out of it.

I find the lack of use of some sort of Never Seize on components by the factory, really strange. I could tell just from how dry the bolts were, steel in the aluminum upright, that down the road these puppy's could be a bear to get out without galling. Also, because of the hub design and the wheel speed sensor, there was a perfect hole and then a shelf where water has been sitting, again corroding the steel and aluminum, requiring me to have to use a slide hammer to get the hub out.

While we had the hubs out, it gave us a chance to really look at the brakes. Right off the bat, Andy saw that on the inner rotor face, the pad was only contacting about 6/8ths of the surface...no contact near the hub edge of the rotor.. The rotor was taper worn in a radial way, go figure. Then of course, the pad was worn this way too, so there was a lot of slop to be taken by pedal travel, hence the "double" racer style pump to get everything squared up. The master on this car is very small, so any un-squareness will just eat any pedal displacement.
I have new pads ready to in, so I am going to get some new rotors and slam them on. At least a rotor change is dead easy on this car, looking forward to getting this fixed.

To be continued.....
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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bertvorgon
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby bertvorgon » 16 Nov 2012 06:57

FIXED!

So, I pull the car into Specialty last Sunday. Took a few minutes to get the car on the hoist, wheels off, then the caliper. At this point, now that I am on track to change the pads, I knock the outside of the caliper off, to remove the pad assembly. After doing that, I of course check the slider function.........

Guess what.....the bottom slider is beyond FROZEN solid...there is my problem!!!!!!!!!! The caliper is prying itself apart at the top only, hence the radial wear on the rotor and pad...and the huge travel required on the brake pedal.

This car has a very small master, so the .020" here and there added up to the need for the double pump, for the caliper to try and square itself, which was almost impossible.

Fortunately, Nissan put quiet a large bolt head on the slider, so we could put that in the vice jaws, then hammer the caliper mount away from the frozen slider. Then, it was recoverable, that I could wire wheel the slider bolt, and, get inside the caliper mount with a small wire cleaner, and get it down to the bare metal.

The rubber "accordion" was in good shape, but, for whatever reason water was able to get in there. We put so much high temp lube in there, we had trouble getting the bolt back into the caliper mount...it hydraulic'd. I would suggest that it was virtually frozen when I got the car....I should have looked at it myself right from the start I guess.

Lube things up, nice new pads in, throw the rotors on....I now have a high great pedal, height is perfect to the gas pedal, heel and toe is perfect. As a matter of fact, I now have to re-adjust my driving style again, as I had altered the way I down shifted with the stupid excess travel.

This whole exercise points out that I should not have been lazy at the start, if you want it done right....DO IT YOURSELF!!!

Also, I'm really pissed at the Infinity dealer, when I explained the brake issue to them, and OBVIOUSLY NOW, blew me off and never looked at the damn thing. Coincidentally, I got a card in the mail the other day from the dealer, noting that they had NOT seen my car for it's regular checks and oil change. Guess what, I am going to send THEM a letter, with a CC to Nissan Canada, with some CONSTRUCTIVE criticism, as to WHY they will NEVER see my car in their shop.

Car is sure fun to drive now, and, again points out the relationship of having everything set up right, for heel and toeing, and the brakes being consistent.

Now...if I can figure out that crappy drive by wire......
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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proflex
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby proflex » 20 Nov 2012 21:20

Sounds like the PO never did or had the recommended brake services done, probably had the attitude that he was going to save some money and would just let the next guy worry about it. Guess who the next guy was. :wink:
Kidding aside, I know how you feel Keith, I’m glad you found the problem.

Chad
In just two days from now, tomorrow will be yesterday.

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bertvorgon
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby bertvorgon » 21 Nov 2012 05:27

Thanks!

Man, I have had to change my whole driving style, amazing how one adapts to things. With the deep travel, I would have to center my foot way over the brake pedal, so as not to snag the gas. Now, I just just breath on the edge of the brake, which stays above the gas pedal now.

The drive by wire/throttle hang up does present it's own set of issues, but, for the most part it is really good now.

Almost as good as my 40 year old 510....... :lol:
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

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bertvorgon
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby bertvorgon » 07 Dec 2012 17:05

Bonus score..

I stumbled upon the entire FSM for my car online, which I was able to download...now I can get my wire cutters going.....

Car has been so much better to drive now with the brakes fixed, could be a hair firmer, I may just bleed them myself, bit of a procedure to do that due to the ABS.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

HudsonMC
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby HudsonMC » 09 Dec 2012 15:37

bertvorgon wrote:I may just bleed them myself, bit of a procedure to do that due to the ABS.



really? I've always just bled mine the old fashioned way. What's different?

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bertvorgon
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby bertvorgon » 09 Dec 2012 19:12

Ahh, help me out here then. The FSM says I need to disconnect the battery, to disable the ABS system?!

there must be some issue with the ABS sensing the brakes being pumped, during the bleeding process? I got such conflicted information on the G35 site, I just thought I would follow Nissan's recommendation, they put that there for a reason.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

HudsonMC
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby HudsonMC » 10 Dec 2012 07:00

That's interesting. I had never heard that, so never did anything like that. Hope I wasn't messing anything up. I've always bled with the car off, so don't know what the ABS would be doing.

Does it indicate to disconnect the battery to disable ABS, or only to disconnect the battery without any reason?

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rnorrish
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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby rnorrish » 10 Dec 2012 18:22

Could be the typical start to anything found in a Haynes Manual.
Step 1: disconnect the battery.
Step 2: do what you need to fix it.
Step 3: reassemble in reverse order.
Step 4: reconnect battery.
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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shardik wrote:My swap will be made of solid gold and it will run on puppy farts.

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Re: BACK TO MY NISSAN ROOTS

Postby HudsonMC » 11 Dec 2012 07:28

rnorrish wrote:Could be the typical start to anything found in a Haynes Manual.
Step 1: disconnect the battery.
Step 2: do what you need to fix it.
Step 3: reassemble in reverse order.
Step 4: reconnect battery.



Yea, that's what I was thinking.

I remember one time I forgot that step when working on the wiring in my CJ-7. Took a pair of side cutters straight through "hot" and "starter" and my Jeep took off down the driveway and almost into the street with me laying under the dash. I'll never do that again. :oops:


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