WM300 Power Wagon

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defdes
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WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 21 Mar 2013 10:29

This is what has been keeping me off my 510...and other things, for a while. I have purchased a number of cars and trucks sight unseen, this one ended up being less than I'd hoped for. Got anxious, pulled the trigger on an Eastern truck, frame will ultimately need to be replaced. For now, I am just getting it serviceable.
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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 21 Mar 2013 10:33

Replaced all fluids (12 qts gear oil, 7 motor oil!) brake lines, rebuilt the master, and all new shoes and cylinders... just for reference, I started this shortly after Julian started his 3 wheeler :oops: slow going.
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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 21 Mar 2013 10:35

More...
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okayfine
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby okayfine » 21 Mar 2013 10:45

What's parts availability like for something like that?
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby HudsonMC » 21 Mar 2013 11:12

Is that one of those trucks with the swivel frame?

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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby goichi1 » 21 Mar 2013 13:42

Is that an aircraft nose jack hanging off the front bumper?? :D

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 21 Mar 2013 16:22

You can get the swivel as an aftermarket mod but this is plenty of truck as it is for my purposes (PTO take off etc).
Parts are quite available, as with any of the old rigs, such as our own, there is quite a dedicated following and lots of NOS and aftermarket repros for them.
As for the nose...
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okayfine
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby okayfine » 21 Mar 2013 16:40

MR PLOW!
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 21 Mar 2013 16:53

okayfine wrote:MR PLOW!

It's SENOR PLOW to you!

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 03 Oct 2014 04:37

Been doing a little work on the Dodge, pulled out the old rusty 40 gallon tank and replaced it with a spare from the 510.
Fish plated a couple of cracks/holes in the frame, one right behind the rear spring shackle and one in the wheel arch. I really need to get a better frame, but in the meantime I'll just be using it as a farm truck with AG. registration.
The PO also used 1/4" steel plate for the bed, I cut that out along with the bed mounted winch leaving an extra bit of plate for strength.
Just need to re wire the lights and put in a wood bed and I am off to register.
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RMS
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby RMS » 06 Oct 2014 22:57

that's a lot of extra steel on that frame :shock: did it have a backhoe attachment or a wrecker on it?

I hope you have chains if you plan on plowing with NDTs it's like driving on rubber razorblades :lol:
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby 510rob » 07 Oct 2014 17:38

defdes wrote:
okayfine wrote:MR PLOW!

It's SENOR PLOW to you!

Better watch out for PLOW KING!!!

Image

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 07 Oct 2014 17:39

RMS wrote:that's a lot of extra steel on that frame :shock: did it have a backhoe attachment or a wrecker on it?

I hope you have chains if you plan on plowing with NDTs it's like driving on rubber razorblades :lol:

Yeah, it was a wrecker. The back 2' under the snatch block was 1/2" plate. Between that, the winch and the 1/4" plate on the rest of the bed, I have shed about 500# from it. As for the tires, I know....and they are in pretty poor shape at that. I hope to get some Super Lugs or something like that in the coming year, but it's about $1400 in rubber/delivery then finding an old coot who will work with the split rings.
It's a fun project though, and I am almost ready to reassemble the bed, my neighbor has some 8" Locust boards he's going to give me for it.

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RMS
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby RMS » 07 Oct 2014 18:47

defdes wrote:then finding an old coot who will work with the split rings.


there not that bad I can break down patch and resemble in 20-40 min depending on how many decades the tire has been together

here is a post I did on the G741 :
RMS wrote:I'm sure you all have heard horror stories about split rims/ bud wheels and how dangerous they are to service. flats happen, with a tubeless tire its easy as stuffing in a plug. :shock: were as our buds has to be disassembled the tube patched, aired up and seated without flying apart and cutting you in two. so how can we safely complete a field repair and what tools are required to break down a tire?
below is how i service my wheels and the tools I use. it would be great if all of you can share your wisdom and show off your tools.

i have been breaking down and mounting my own tires for eight years now as many shops will no longer give me a flat rate. too many tires vulcanized to the rim i guess :P

i have a tire repair kit in my truck at all times. in my fist aid box I have a four way valve tool, soap patches and glue, spare valve caps and an assortment of vales. in the tool box I carry a jack, short bud wrench, two tire levers, chain with hook, hammer, pump and a shepards hook.
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once the wheel is off the truck and on the ground ring up I carefully remove the Schrader valve and put it in a safe spot. Image

next i soap up the bead then hammer the shepards hook between the bead and the ring.
then i wiggle the hook back and forth making sure the end of the hook is as close to the edge of the bead as possible and work my way around the rim until the bead slips past the ring
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once the bead is clear of the ring I use the hook to push down on the ring exposing the first notch. I then insert the first leaver in to the notch and push down this lifts the ring exposing the second notch. I insert the second leaver push down and the ring is half off. as there are no more notches in the ring it has to be levered off from the edge. I have never had a ring pop off during disassemble however i still wrap a chain around the wheel, I like having teeth :mrgreen: ImageImageImage
with the ring and chain removed i flip the wheel and work on the second bead. Once debeaded i push the valve stem in so i can lift the rim out without pulling on the tube( there could be something stuck in the case like a nail that could tear the tube making it unpatchable.) carefully remove the flap and tube then feel around for any defects. remove any foreign debris and patch the inside of the tire. I will use a plug and a patch if the hole is big. then its time to install the valve then hunt and patch the holes in the tube with the aid of a soapy rag and air.
with the tube patched its time to assemble. I pump up the tube to the point that it will just fit back inside the tire this is very important creases are bad. especially if I'm trying to fit an 1100/16 tube in a 900 tire :roll: . with the tube in the tire I feed the stem through the flap and work the flap in making sure there are no folds or creases then install the plate and nut locking the tube to the flap. with the tire on the ground and valve stem facing down I torque the stem up thread it into the rim and drop the rim onto the bead. with the stem orientated in the center of the slot I flip the wheel and install the ring. I do this by placing the split away from the stem and slipping the low edge of the ring on to the grove then with my foot I stomp the ring into place so as to not wreck the paint. since i dont have a tire cage I wrap my chain around the tire and place it ring down, connect my lock on chuck and air up to 10psi. usually with a clean rim and a new soapy tire the bead will be seat or at least on its way with a rumbling deep squeak. I never take a unseated tire past 20psi. here is a pic of a tire at 20 psi that has not seated. in the second pic you can see how the ring is trying to slip out of the grove as the taper of the bead digs in to the edge of the ring. ImageImage
.................this is danger and death could be near. ..................
valve out aired down and ring off for more cleaning as any kind of bur or gouge will impede the seating of the bead and could case a failure that can cut you in two.
be safe and share the knowledge or horror story's to convey the dangers.

cheers
Robyn
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 08 Oct 2014 06:37

Excellent write up, thanks.


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