WM300 Power Wagon

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 15 Mar 2015 18:02

Finally got it all rewired and registered drove it for a week and couldn't leave well enough alone. Tore the motor open and pulled out the freeze ...*ahem* ...welsh plugs and back flushed the gunk out of the block. Almost have it all back together after about 3 days toil.
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tr6racer21
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby tr6racer21 » 15 Mar 2015 19:32

You'll be glad you did that...nasty in there!

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 15 Mar 2015 19:55

I was kind of shocked (though not that surprised) when I saw it, about 1/2" deep pressed up against both plugs when I pulled them off, but it amounted to only about 4 golf balls of sludge that probably wasn't going anywhere anyway. Still glad I did it and flushed the radiator etc. Now I know that the cooling system is working as good as it can with summer coming.

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RMS
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby RMS » 18 Mar 2015 10:04

how did you get the rad out with out removing all the front sheet metal ? when I tor apart my 49 pw the rad had to be removed(front clip with fenders on the ground) before I could access the 4 bolts securing the nose/ upper rad cover
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two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 18 Mar 2015 14:33

Must be a difference in the later model. Just four bolts from the front behind the radiator grill. I just had to pop off the top cowl that the radiator filler passes thru and lift up and out.
I got it all filled and fired last night. On principal I never use red RTV and used aviation sealant on all of the cooling parts I put back. There was a leak at the thermostat so I redid it with a cork gasket and RTV. Waiting the 24 hours for it to cure has been tiresome. I will refire it tonight and hope that there are no other leaks.
EDIT: I just reread what you wrote. I loosened up the radiator and pushed it forward and down to access those 4 bolts that hold the radiator sheet metal cover down . I did however forget this when I was putting it back together and struggled for about an hour with those four bolts before I gave up and dropped the radiator again to gain access. .

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RMS
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby RMS » 19 Mar 2015 13:48

i knew there was some kind of trick to removing the rad. I could not see our boys back in ww2 having the time to remove the complete front clip just to service the rad on a wc. have you ever serviced the mc? it looks to be a right pain..... being squished between the bell housing and frame.
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 20 Mar 2015 04:49

BMC? I have, and it wasn't too bad, this thing has a mechanical clutch. I rebuilt it and made new brake lines last winter.
After redoing the gasket, I took it for about a 15 mile shake down, no runs, no drips, no errors. I had a bit of a scare when first firing it up, water was not circulating down from the radiator neck and I thought I had gasket obstruction or something. Turns out I had the petcock to the heater core shut off and had air lock in the system.
Still need to service the distributor (I had ordered a Pertronix kit but it was not the right one) and adjust the carb, but pretty happy with looking through the windshield at 40 mph....would like to source a 4.89 rear end.
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RMS
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby RMS » 20 Mar 2015 09:28

is your Pertronix kit 24v for the m37? if so I have a 12v kit for the small cap dizzy...we could trade. 4.89s are nice but they are spendy and hard to set up. a easier way is to switch to 1100r16s (38s) they will give you about 12% were as the 4.89s give 20%. I ran 41s with the 4.89s... 70mph + on 1100r18s ndts with single line brakes ...Oh ya bring on the brown factor :P
two_68_510s wrote:I guess our donkeys are quicker then your sled dogs!

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defdes
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Re: WM300 Power Wagon

Postby defdes » 20 Mar 2015 12:18

I don't know if this will work for you, I have a 1361A (large cap) unit and was told by tech at Pertronix that I need an 1362 for this Canadian made Autolite distributor (small cap) that I have.


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