LZ 23 .... nope KAZ23S

View and post your Nissan/Datsun project(s)
datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) Make that Z24 (E) nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 18 Jun 2012 14:45

jason wrote:Ummm.... Asian Tranny's Mike :shock: :lol: ?


Well the only thing for sure is she's less than ten years old.

FS6R31A year unknown for sure
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

User avatar
kymsun
Posts: 104
Joined: 01 Aug 2011 08:20
Location: S.E. Washington State

Re: LZ 23 (E?) Make that Z24 (E) nope LZ23

Postby kymsun » 18 Jun 2012 17:06

years the trans was used in is 2004 - 2006 (Z33) 350Z.

datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 01 Jul 2013 17:47

Talk about long range plans. Well I have my Z22 block and found a place that will bore to fit my KA pistons. I pulled the block out and gave it a good cleaning this weekend. It has to ride in my goon and I don't want a mess nor a dirty look from the machinist.

Any one else here have a Z22 block? Well I did some homework on this and I think it will work on any L series block too. It was a 280zx turbo that got me thinking of this and thanks to MikeY, what a guy, I have the missing pieces.

The Z22 block has this for an oil filter boss...
Image

I really like this. There are four tapped holes on the boss. Just like the 280zx turbo. So what you say?

Well the 280zx turbo also had a factory oil cooler.
Image

The Z22 also has this tube extension, maybe to better distribute the oil in the filter? I removed it and put this on to try the fit......
Image

Image

The single small bolt just locates the position of the filter, does not hold it on. I tried two positions but you could put it anywhere that doesn't interfere with the alternator, MM or anything else? The large hollow center bolt holds it on so you could just as well hang straight down. Then it would work on any L series even without the bolt holes.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

User avatar
defdes
Supporter
Posts: 4958
Joined: 12 May 2005 14:45
Location: Vermont

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby defdes » 01 Jul 2013 19:37

I used that unit on my race car, worked out nicely, O rings are available from McMaster Carr if you need them.... I am actually pretty sure I have a few spare as they came in packs of 5 from what I remember. Let me know if you want one and I'll poke around my boxes.
oilcooler-2.JPG
oilcooler-2.JPG (169.35 KiB) Viewed 1576 times

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11598
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby Byron510 » 01 Jul 2013 22:52

I agree it's a nice part. I run the Z22 block in the Bronze. I went with an earl’s oil filter remote block in the end, but I see nothing wrong with the 280ZX turbo unit.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 02 Jul 2013 06:36

The location on the z car is laughable.... behind/below the right front headlight. The 'rad' is packed with dirt/sand from the tire. There are two hoses (not shown) that connect the parts shown and they are quite stiff. The braided lines shown by defdes are the way to go. As with all my motors I will be running the KA oil pump.

Still have to sit down and decide if I want the block decked slightly.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 25 Jul 2013 17:50

Block delivered to be over bored to 89mm this week. Will have it decked as well.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 04 Aug 2013 10:36

Getting some head.

Made my own spring compressor in about 2 min. from an old C clamp
Image

Image

Got this huge plastic tank from the re-store for $20. Cut the bottom off with angle grinder, half filled with hot water and dissolved a can of Drano in it. Washed the rockers and the head.
Image

Before
Image

After 1/2 hour
Image

Started fizzing pretty good so wasn't about to leave in there over night. Cleaned up pretty good.

Had a spare bolt
Image

Chased all the threaded holes
Image

Image

You'll like this...

I saw what I thought was a blue elastic band in one of the coolant holes. Pulled it out with my dental pick...
Image

Eventually fished out all this...
Image

Previous owner must have been a Chevy owner :lol: Those guys slather more RTV on shit than you can imagine because of poorly fitting parts. So be warned!!! What ever you put on that squashes out on the outside will be also squeezing out on the inside too. This is where it ends up, or on the oil pump screen. Better to install gaskets without it, just like Nissan goes.

Before
Image

After
Image

Valves were all in good shape.
Ports and chambers are all good with almost no flashing or burrs.. better than the L and WAY better than the Z heads. There were some factory reliefs cut here
Image

...and with nothing better to do I smoother them
Image

There is also a small edge around the outside of the valve seat. I removed and them smoothed it
Image

On the inside of the valve seat there is also an edge before the valve face contact area
Image

I smoothed this down to make a progressive radius just like a velocity stack. If a three angle valve works what wouldn't the corresponding area on the seat not benefit from this also.
Image

Smoothed intake and exhaust ports
Image

Plastic top from my Abba's Greatest Hits CD. Mark cylinder and drill hole near outer edge
Image

Plastic syringe for giving children an oral medicine.
Image

Grease the valves and insert.
Image

Light coat of grease around cylinder top and place plastic on and press down.
Image

Fill counting the amount
Image

Armed with this info I can easily calculate my future compression ratio. The final adjustment will be having the head milled down. Shooting for 8.5


The KA's two intake valves equal a single valve that is 1.9" or 48.25mm across for area. Kind of makes the L series 1.38" intake look small.


The KA exhaust valve is 1.575" to the L's 1.38" or 40mm vs. 35mm

Assuming a 1.5 rocker ratio the valve lift is 0.3975"
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 07 Aug 2013 20:20

Jason Gray info says Z22 and L20B rods can be used for the LZ23. I checked and they are the same part number. I pressed out the pins on a set of L20B rods and one Z22 rod on a tip from someone who said the L20B rods will vibrate more and lower your top end revs.

Here's what I found....

L20B and Z22 rods have the same U20 cast into them.

L20B and Z22 rods weigh the same, give or take a gram or two.

I unbolted the caps and weighed them...


Z22 caps are heavier than L20B caps
Z22 rod uppers are lighter than L20B uppers.

Over all they do weigh the same but the Z22 assembled rods are heavier on the big end compared to the L20B assembled rod. This is very interesting.


edit: Cannot confirm this today. Spent a couple of hrs. doing this right this afternoon. (maybe I overlooked something on the single Z22 rod I used, or the method was faulty, in a hurry?)

Took the four L20B and the four Z22 rods apart and weighed every part separately to the nearest 1/10 of a gram. ALL rod caps were within 4.6 grams of each other. Nuts and bolts were all within several tenths of a gram. The top half of the rods were all close except one which was the heaviest top matched with the lightest cap. All totals were within the 7 gram limit in my FSM. 7 grams is about 1/4 ounce.
Last edited by datzenmike on 08 Aug 2013 18:37, edited 2 times in total.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

User avatar
510wizard
Supporter
Posts: 1003
Joined: 12 Sep 2005 09:50
Location: Reno, Nevada

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby 510wizard » 08 Aug 2013 07:24

It would be interesting to do an end to end weight comparison.

datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 08 Aug 2013 12:20

I assume support the small end and weigh the big end? May try that this afternoon. I carried the last 3 Z22 rods in with me to work. Im using a concrete crush tester to press the pins out. :lol: It is used to compress to fail 4" cylinders of test concrete. I think they have to withstand about 60 tons. Very expensive and I have to be careful with it but it's electric and easy to use, even has a gauge. The L20B pins took a max of 1,500 lbs to press out.

I'll extract the pins and try to rig up something to weigh each end.
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 10 Aug 2013 10:16

FWIW the L20B/Z22 rods caps and bolts average 705.25 grams with a variance of over 8 grams fome heavy to light.
Image

Picked up my 89mm bored Z22 block yesterday. Hot tanked and new core plugs. Decked 1mm.
Image

Dropped of the KA head for milling also
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 17 Aug 2013 19:46

Using a brake cylinder hone (carefully) and some 600 paper as well as repeated test fits I now have four floating rods. Took about an hour each but the pin just pushes in and through with finger pressure.

Image

Image

So today I want to complete them. This is the drilling of an oil hole to splash lube the pin.

Image

Chamfering the hole just like the KA rods.

Image

Remove the bur...
Image

... and provide a groove for the oil. Then polish.
Image

Finished. I'm pretty happy with the results.
Image

Biked into town to our materials testing lab to use their electronic scales. The careful weighing of both rod ends was problematic. When repeatedly weighed I could only get within 2-3 grams each time. Not happy, was expecting to get much closer. I did get all four rods just under 4 grams of each other which is half what I started with.

Picked up a KA head gasket and tomorrow will compare the KA block/head and gasket holes to those on the Z22 block.

KA
Image

Z22
Image
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11598
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby Byron510 » 17 Aug 2013 20:02

Hi Mike,

I've been drilling holes down the (L series) spark plug side of the Z22 blocks for years to line up with the L Series head to make sure water flow was sufficient. It would appear that you will be doing the same. A center punch and pilot hole or center drill when drilling by hand is sufficient. You'll find the cast material beautiful to drill into, the quality of the material is beautiful.

Keep us posted.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

datzenmike
Supporter
Posts: 5187
Joined: 24 May 2006 12:40
Location: Van. Isle.

Re: LZ 23 (E?) .... nope LZ23

Postby datzenmike » 17 Aug 2013 22:28

Like an 1/8th inch first,... then? 1/4 or 1/2inch. I see the KA uses a long slot shape for block and head.... so I was thinking a hole at each end of where the slot is?

Image
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs


Return to “Non PL510 Projects”



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest