610 coupe restoration
610 coupe restoration
Hi all from a fellow enthusiast from "down under" - Australia
Just found your forum whilst searching for custom inlet manifold ideas for my 610, so thought I'd post a bit of info about my project. Its a 180B SSS coupe, or 610 coupe.
Here's a rundown on the project anyway (lifted straight from an Australian forum).
Here's my 1972 180B SSS project. It was a two-owner car before I bought it. The guy I got it from was a friend of my father-in-laws and I had often seen and admired the car over the years. He had passed it on to his son, who then decided to upgrade to a commodore wagon, so one night I got a phone call to see if I was interested in buying it.
Money changed hands, and I then used it as my daily driver for a few years till rust started to take over.
I then tried (unsuccessfully) to sell it for a while, before deciding to do it up a bit.
The plan then changed to be a full restoration to original. Then after datnats 2005, I was inspired to really go all-out with it. I intended to fit a Z18 that I've had for a while.
And then I had yet another change of plan, going with a supercharged L18. This is pretty much set in stone now, as I have acquired most of the bits for the project. Just have to finish the rust repairs, then I can start using all the goodies stashed away in the shed.
At them moment I've nearly finished the rust repairs. Then I'll be building and fitting the mechanical components, before pulling them out again and painting the car. Then refit the mechanicals, fit the interior, and hit the road. I'm hoping to get the car to datnats 2009 - time will tell if I make it.
Anyway, here are the planned specs.
Engine
L18 with
- nitrided crank
- polished and shotpeened rods
- ARP rod and bearing cap bolts
- Flat top, forged 280ZX JE pistons
- A87 head (or possibly U67, depending on compression achieved with each)
- Stainless 44mm inlet and 38mm exhaust valves
- Upgraded valve springs
- undecided on cam specs
- full custom efi inlet manifold, possibly with two smallish throttle bodies. Basically, an efi version of the twin SU setup.
- Eaton M45 supercharger, done less than 50klms since new - off a current model Mini Cooper S
- full custom extractors to clear the supercharger
- Subaru Liberty water-to-air intercooler
- Water injection
- Haltech E6X ecu (Group buy - Thanks Datnet)
- LS1 coils
- CA18 CAS
Drive Line
Skyline 5 speed, or CA18 box fitted to L-series bellhousing (depending on which of the two proves to be in better condition)
Exceedy heavy duty clutch (thanks Mitch !!)
Either 4.11 R160 Subaru clutch type LSD, or R180 LSD, or shortnose 4.375 R32 GTS-T skyline Viscous R200 in a custom rear crossmember, using CV joints. Final choice will depend on how much work I feel like doing and how much money I have when I get to that stage !! I already have the R160 and R200's, so it'll most likely be one of those
Brakes
Front
Z32 4 spot calipers
Z32 rotors
Datsport caliper adapters
Rear
R31 rotors and calipers
15/16" master on stock SSS booster (or no booster at all, if the engineer likes that idea)
Wilwood proportioning valve
Suspension
Front
R31 struts with home-made coilover kit and adjustable strut tops
S12 hubs
Tokico Prodra-G Green rally shocks ( NOS from the USA via eBay !!)
Modded caster rod to increase the caster (as much as possible without having to mod the guard for clearance)
Modified 200B x-member, using slightly extended LCA's to get required camber in a 180B (as the strut towers are further apart than a 1600)
Rear
Home-made adjustable x-member (or full custom x-member if I go with short-nose diff)
Tokico Prodra-G Gold shocks (also NOS from eBay)
Adjustable ride height
Interior
Original trim and seats, with a race seat for the driver for competition use.
Seat belt bolts to be replaced with harness eyelet-style bolts so I can fit harness for the track, but retain the original seatbelts for the road.
Original '72 model dash with full instrumentation and round guages
Real Australian Red Cedar timber veneer to replace the tacky plastic wood in the dash
Fire Extinguisher
Wheels & Tyres
Road
16 x 7 +35mm offset ASA rims (BBS copies)
215/45/16 Falken RT215 Azenis
Track
Most likely wil share 15" wheels / semi-slicks with my 1600 (if they clear the brakes)
Body
1972 180B SSS
Has a fair amount of rust, which is gradually being repaired
Colour will be Angel Blue, off a Proton Gen 2
Will retain all badges and chrome trim
All nuts and bolts to be replated.
All lights to be replaced with NOS ones (only 1 more to find !!)
Undercarriage will be fully detailed and painted in same colour as the rest of the car
All extra holes in engine bay have been welded up
As it was before starting work
As I started stripping the paint, the rust started to appear
Rear corner finished
Back to bare metal everywhere
Don't need these holes anymore
Back to bare metal inside as well, the finished with POR-15 rustproofing paint
Underside gets the same treatment - it'll be painted the same as the rest of the car
One option for the gearbox - CA18
And the Subaru R160 LSD
The wheels and tyres
Rust in the rear 1/4
Rust all round the rear screen
All welded up
Hand polishing gives the diff a bit of shine
Just found your forum whilst searching for custom inlet manifold ideas for my 610, so thought I'd post a bit of info about my project. Its a 180B SSS coupe, or 610 coupe.
Here's a rundown on the project anyway (lifted straight from an Australian forum).
Here's my 1972 180B SSS project. It was a two-owner car before I bought it. The guy I got it from was a friend of my father-in-laws and I had often seen and admired the car over the years. He had passed it on to his son, who then decided to upgrade to a commodore wagon, so one night I got a phone call to see if I was interested in buying it.
Money changed hands, and I then used it as my daily driver for a few years till rust started to take over.
I then tried (unsuccessfully) to sell it for a while, before deciding to do it up a bit.
The plan then changed to be a full restoration to original. Then after datnats 2005, I was inspired to really go all-out with it. I intended to fit a Z18 that I've had for a while.
And then I had yet another change of plan, going with a supercharged L18. This is pretty much set in stone now, as I have acquired most of the bits for the project. Just have to finish the rust repairs, then I can start using all the goodies stashed away in the shed.
At them moment I've nearly finished the rust repairs. Then I'll be building and fitting the mechanical components, before pulling them out again and painting the car. Then refit the mechanicals, fit the interior, and hit the road. I'm hoping to get the car to datnats 2009 - time will tell if I make it.
Anyway, here are the planned specs.
Engine
L18 with
- nitrided crank
- polished and shotpeened rods
- ARP rod and bearing cap bolts
- Flat top, forged 280ZX JE pistons
- A87 head (or possibly U67, depending on compression achieved with each)
- Stainless 44mm inlet and 38mm exhaust valves
- Upgraded valve springs
- undecided on cam specs
- full custom efi inlet manifold, possibly with two smallish throttle bodies. Basically, an efi version of the twin SU setup.
- Eaton M45 supercharger, done less than 50klms since new - off a current model Mini Cooper S
- full custom extractors to clear the supercharger
- Subaru Liberty water-to-air intercooler
- Water injection
- Haltech E6X ecu (Group buy - Thanks Datnet)
- LS1 coils
- CA18 CAS
Drive Line
Skyline 5 speed, or CA18 box fitted to L-series bellhousing (depending on which of the two proves to be in better condition)
Exceedy heavy duty clutch (thanks Mitch !!)
Either 4.11 R160 Subaru clutch type LSD, or R180 LSD, or shortnose 4.375 R32 GTS-T skyline Viscous R200 in a custom rear crossmember, using CV joints. Final choice will depend on how much work I feel like doing and how much money I have when I get to that stage !! I already have the R160 and R200's, so it'll most likely be one of those
Brakes
Front
Z32 4 spot calipers
Z32 rotors
Datsport caliper adapters
Rear
R31 rotors and calipers
15/16" master on stock SSS booster (or no booster at all, if the engineer likes that idea)
Wilwood proportioning valve
Suspension
Front
R31 struts with home-made coilover kit and adjustable strut tops
S12 hubs
Tokico Prodra-G Green rally shocks ( NOS from the USA via eBay !!)
Modded caster rod to increase the caster (as much as possible without having to mod the guard for clearance)
Modified 200B x-member, using slightly extended LCA's to get required camber in a 180B (as the strut towers are further apart than a 1600)
Rear
Home-made adjustable x-member (or full custom x-member if I go with short-nose diff)
Tokico Prodra-G Gold shocks (also NOS from eBay)
Adjustable ride height
Interior
Original trim and seats, with a race seat for the driver for competition use.
Seat belt bolts to be replaced with harness eyelet-style bolts so I can fit harness for the track, but retain the original seatbelts for the road.
Original '72 model dash with full instrumentation and round guages
Real Australian Red Cedar timber veneer to replace the tacky plastic wood in the dash
Fire Extinguisher
Wheels & Tyres
Road
16 x 7 +35mm offset ASA rims (BBS copies)
215/45/16 Falken RT215 Azenis
Track
Most likely wil share 15" wheels / semi-slicks with my 1600 (if they clear the brakes)
Body
1972 180B SSS
Has a fair amount of rust, which is gradually being repaired
Colour will be Angel Blue, off a Proton Gen 2
Will retain all badges and chrome trim
All nuts and bolts to be replated.
All lights to be replaced with NOS ones (only 1 more to find !!)
Undercarriage will be fully detailed and painted in same colour as the rest of the car
All extra holes in engine bay have been welded up
As it was before starting work
As I started stripping the paint, the rust started to appear
Rear corner finished
Back to bare metal everywhere
Don't need these holes anymore
Back to bare metal inside as well, the finished with POR-15 rustproofing paint
Underside gets the same treatment - it'll be painted the same as the rest of the car
One option for the gearbox - CA18
And the Subaru R160 LSD
The wheels and tyres
Rust in the rear 1/4
Rust all round the rear screen
All welded up
Hand polishing gives the diff a bit of shine
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
The bit I'm currently working on. It has already had a really dodgy repair carried out in the past, with someone welding on some 3mm plate to fix the rust in the guard.
Ended up having to remove the complete inner guard section up to the boot floor level, and the outer guard to a few inches above the boot floor.
There's only this piece, the rust in the roof on the drivers side, and the rust in this guard in front of the rear wheel to go
Ended up having to remove the complete inner guard section up to the boot floor level, and the outer guard to a few inches above the boot floor.
There's only this piece, the rust in the roof on the drivers side, and the rust in this guard in front of the rear wheel to go
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
Starting to get somewhere with the rear guard - here's the almost completed inner section, all folded up by hand from new sheetmetal. To get the pattern that's pressed into the flat section, I got a bit of hardwood and routered the pattern into it. Then used appropriate shaped bits of metal to hammer the pattern into it (an old drill did nicely for the round groove )
I haven't cut the bottom to size, as there was nothing left of the original to work out were to cut it . I'll have to make up a template from the other side and go from there.
Old and new
Shot with FinePix S3000 at 2007-07-26
Trial fitment
Shot with FinePix S3000 at 2007-07-26
I haven't cut the bottom to size, as there was nothing left of the original to work out were to cut it . I'll have to make up a template from the other side and go from there.
Old and new
Shot with FinePix S3000 at 2007-07-26
Trial fitment
Shot with FinePix S3000 at 2007-07-26
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
Here's some of the good gear I've accumulated for the SSS over the years.
Selection of NOS lights - anyone have a NOS chrome surround for the left hand taillight ?? Everything else is new, but the left hand light was off a sedan so the outer trim was different to the SSS. I just need the chrome surround to make up a new set of taillights
Plenty of brake stuff, even a pair of Datsport brackets hiding in there !!
Numerous gasket sets, bearing sets, water pumps and other random engine stuff - I love a good swap meet !!
All new 200B steering components (except drag link), plus a selection of NOS shocks. Interestingly, the genuine Nissan ones are identical to the Tokico Prodra-G ones - same markings and they feel the same. Only difference is the black paint and a Nissan part number stamped into them
Anyone have a new 200B drag link ??? Can't find one anywhere.
Forged pistons, ARP bolts, stainless oversized valves, new guides, CA18 CAS, LS1 coils and an L18 efi manifold (which I probably won't use)
Water-to-air intercooler and random manifold stuff that may become part of a custom inlet manifold setup
The heart of the project - near new Eaton M45 blower, plus throttle body and genuine BMW / mini cooper S blower bypass valve
Selection of NOS lights - anyone have a NOS chrome surround for the left hand taillight ?? Everything else is new, but the left hand light was off a sedan so the outer trim was different to the SSS. I just need the chrome surround to make up a new set of taillights
Plenty of brake stuff, even a pair of Datsport brackets hiding in there !!
Numerous gasket sets, bearing sets, water pumps and other random engine stuff - I love a good swap meet !!
All new 200B steering components (except drag link), plus a selection of NOS shocks. Interestingly, the genuine Nissan ones are identical to the Tokico Prodra-G ones - same markings and they feel the same. Only difference is the black paint and a Nissan part number stamped into them
Anyone have a new 200B drag link ??? Can't find one anywhere.
Forged pistons, ARP bolts, stainless oversized valves, new guides, CA18 CAS, LS1 coils and an L18 efi manifold (which I probably won't use)
Water-to-air intercooler and random manifold stuff that may become part of a custom inlet manifold setup
The heart of the project - near new Eaton M45 blower, plus throttle body and genuine BMW / mini cooper S blower bypass valve
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
Rear guard is starting to take shape. Outer section is made up from a Repco repair section (which wasn't complete as you can see where I've had to reshape it - the back end wasn't formed at all ), the original piece that has the bumper bar recess, plus a few other bits beaten out of flat sheet.
Its a worry when a commercial rust repair section isn't big enough to repair the rust in your car I'll need to add another two inch strip above the repair panel.
Its a worry when a commercial rust repair section isn't big enough to repair the rust in your car I'll need to add another two inch strip above the repair panel.
1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
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- Supporter
- Posts: 322
- Joined: 27 Jul 2006 14:15
- Location: Salem, Oregon
Wow! After seeing the amount of rust in this 610 body I have one question... Why? I guess once you get started you just cannot finish until ALL of the rust is gone. You are a craftman. I know what it takes to do these kinds of repairs. You must feel this car is a full time job! I had some small rust holes behind the wheels and on the driver's side floorboard. My 510 is clean other then that. A buddy of mine repaired the rust. Isn;t it nice to know the car is free of rust? POR is our buddy!
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- Posts: 82
- Joined: 31 Jul 2005 21:36
- Location: Coquitlam BC
610 coupe restoration
You have done a great job. I'm curious why there is so much rust on a car from "down under"? My in-laws live in Adelaide where it is hot and dry. What part of "Oz" do you live in.
Btw, I saw the F1 race at Adelaide in 91. Right now I'm watching a V8 Supercar race on Speed channel - great racing.
Robert Barg
Btw, I saw the F1 race at Adelaide in 91. Right now I'm watching a V8 Supercar race on Speed channel - great racing.
Robert Barg
Having done similar, but not nearly as extensive work on my own 510, I feel I know what you are up against in this project.
It takes a dedicated person to do this, and follow through. To be honest, very few people would even try, less would finish a project like this.
I'm curious about one thing.
How available would the bumpers be from a car like yours?
Here in North America, we got huge, ugly bumpers that take so much away from these cars. I was just currious if one could buy them from an Aussie or Jap spec car? And what they would be worth.
i saw a 2dr 610 couple in Seattle last week when I was there. I had to really hold back leaving a note on the windshield. But I now know where the car is, at least during business hours! Quite cool, look forward to seeing your updates.
Here's a link to my project.
http://www.the510realm.com/PNphpBB2-vie ... art-0.html
Byron
It takes a dedicated person to do this, and follow through. To be honest, very few people would even try, less would finish a project like this.
I'm curious about one thing.
How available would the bumpers be from a car like yours?
Here in North America, we got huge, ugly bumpers that take so much away from these cars. I was just currious if one could buy them from an Aussie or Jap spec car? And what they would be worth.
i saw a 2dr 610 couple in Seattle last week when I was there. I had to really hold back leaving a note on the windshield. But I now know where the car is, at least during business hours! Quite cool, look forward to seeing your updates.
Here's a link to my project.
http://www.the510realm.com/PNphpBB2-vie ... art-0.html
Byron