Whitebird

[okayfine]

How do you know when your project is getting closer to being completed?

When you have a bunch of these laying around:



I just have to bleed the brakes now that I've replaced the front shoes. Then I can set the car back on the ground for the first time in six months. That'll be a big day. Most of the heavy lifting is done and there are only two big projects remaining - the SU manifold (and associated SU carb purchase) and the distributor modifications.

[okayfine]

Have you tried to find a brake shop that can resurface the shoe you have?
Just a thought I believe there is a shop in Vancouver that does that for the local racers.

I hadn't, but mainly because until this new set of shoes came in, I only had the original set of shoes for the front drums. If I sent them off without backup and the brake shop lost the shoes or otherwise damaged them during the process, I'd be screwed.

As I now have the original set as a spare, I can look into this. I've seen quotes for ~$100 per axle for relining, which isn't bad. However the Roadster shoes were $75 for NOS bits.

[dat16v]

How do you guys run your battery cables past the back seat?

Iggy

[okayfine]

How do you guys run your battery cables past the back seat?

Iggy

I ran mine under the bottom cushion, with that section of cable inside some 5/8" heater hose.

I don't expect to have anyone sitting in the rear seats, really, so it's not a big issue. Still, it would be stupid to have the car burn down because someone did sit in the back seat (which is what they're there for). The hose should be all the protection the cable will need. Also helps protect where it comes through the rear bulkhead framing.

Also, the welding cable I used has an inner and an outer insulator.

[goichi1]

really cool!! but i guess I will be the first to ask.....why didn't you go with a good disk brake setup?? way better and with that motor set you really should consider better brakes/suspension, IMO.......

[dat16v]

I ran mine under the bottom cushion, with that section of cable inside some 5/8" heater hose.

I don't expect to have anyone sitting in the rear seats, really, so it's not a big issue. Still, it would be stupid to have the car burn down because someone did sit in the back seat (which is what they're there for). The hose should be all the protection the cable will need. Also helps protect where it comes through the rear bulkhead framing.

Also, the welding cable I used has an inner and an outer insulator.

cool thanks!

[Byron510]

okayfine,
I’ve really enjoyed reading though this thread, thanks for posting all your details. It’s taken me over a month to find the time to really read through all the posts, and I’ve enjoyed your project.
I like the direction you’ve taken with your project, this really is your car.
Keep up the good work, and I do look forward to your posts.

Byron

[okayfine]

really cool!! but i guess I will be the first to ask.....why didn't you go with a good disk brake setup?? way better and with that motor set you really should consider better brakes/suspension, IMO.......

Because they were there. Besides, how many all-drum 510s have you seen? I'd already done the big brake/fast car bit and this car is different. Drums will be fine. I've driven it before I did all the work and the drums worked fine. No, they won't stand up to a fast canyon run, but I'm not really about fast canyon runs these days. I like to go out driving and have a good time, but I never really used the last 20% of my blue KA510. That was beyond my confort zone on public roads.

Knowing I have drum brakes at all four corners, even if I go for an enthusiastic drive, I can still get the job done. You just have to drive differently than if you have big anchors at each corner. Whitebird certainly won't be a point-and-squirt car, it'll be all about keeping the momentum up.

If someone new to 510s, or someone wanting a real canyon burner, was building a car like Whitebird, I'd ask the same questions you did above. But I've had a fast 510 and, as I said, I didn't really take advantage of it for the most part. This car is built differently for specific reasons, as have been outlined in this thread.

As to the suspension, it's only slightly softer than my KA510 (150in/lb springs versus 175). Still has Tokicos. Slotted rear to correct toe and camber, EE tension rod kit to keep caster/brake dive under control.

And, if anything should present an issue once the car's running, it's not like I can't upgrade.

[okayfine]

okayfine,
I’ve really enjoyed reading though this thread, thanks for posting all your details. It’s taken me over a month to find the time to really read through all the posts, and I’ve enjoyed your project.
I like the direction you’ve taken with your project, this really is your car.
Keep up the good work, and I do look forward to your posts.

Byron

Danke, Byron. I really appreciate that.

[goichi1]

Yea, I kinda figured you weren't building a canyon car....it's kinda cool that you are keeping it close to stock too...it's funny how you say you didn't use the last 20% of your KA car, I have yet to really blast on mine, but then again I have only seen it a few weeks out of the year so far.....so sometimes I kinda feel like I built it for no real reason...hopefully soon I can enjoy it a little before winter....

here's an idea, on your wiring....build a small box to fit the battery tray, to house all the relays....make a trick cover with the relay layout printed on the top....make it look kinda factory, at least how the newer cars look??? maybe....

[okayfine]

it's funny how you say you didn't use the last 20% of your KA car, I have yet to really blast on mine,

I built it to drive, but most of the time I was driving to work, or long freeway slogs to car shows. Onramps were fun, though

here's an idea, on your wiring....build a small box to fit the battery tray, to house all the relays....make a trick cover with the relay layout printed on the top....make it look kinda factory, at least how the newer cars look??? maybe....

I like it. It won't make Whitebird 1.0, but I'll look into building/modifying something to do that. I used the factory holes in the battery tray to mount the relay bar that's there, so I can easily change it.

I did make a new sticker for the Nissan box-o-relays I pulled from a 240 and used in my KA510. It was helpful, though probably moreso for the next owners.

[F8d2Blk]

Looks good. I may still go this route but we shall see. I was also curious if you would ever go to a dyno just to see what numbers you have with the carbs. It also looks like your engine is different then mine. Mine has the VTC valve cover.

[okayfine]

Looks good. I may still go this route but we shall see. I was also curious if you would ever go to a dyno just to see what numbers you have with the carbs. It also looks like your engine is different then mine. Mine has the VTC valve cover.

A dyno trip is in the plans once I have the carbs set up. Unfortunately I won't have an EFI SR baseline to compare against, but you can't have everything.

S13 SRs don't have variable cam timing.

[okayfine]

Update:

The SU manifold for the SR has been fully welded.



Now I need to clean up inside the runners and sand down the weld puddles on the outside. The goal is to get it looking factory-ish, so the finish will likely see a coarse media blast to try to replicate that "as cast" finish. The manifold will still need a balance tube installed, as well as something for the stock linkage to turn in.

But it's closer to being done.

[okayfine]

Update:

Finally shortened the eBay extended-spline axles. The axles are hardened, so the carbide bits on the lathe weren't doing much to it. Ended up using a tool-post grinder to cut new c-clip slots, then parting off the excess with my trusty Harbor Freight angle grinder with cut-off wheel.