My dime is too low

[hang_510]

The material that you use as a spacer/bushing would be determined by what you are looking for in a spacer/bushing.

dunno what the PO was thinking in mine, but tried to (re)use the coil that was cut off as a spacer...


arent the dodge D50 F coils supposed to work well???

[okayfine]

arent the dodge D50 F coils supposed to work well???

Depends on what you're looking for WRT spring rate. I wouldn't suggest pairing D50 coils in the rear with stock front coils. That's a recipie for a five-minute drift machine.

[Byron510]

Depends on what you're looking for WRT spring rate. I wouldn't suggest pairing D50 coils in the rear with stock front coils. That's a recipie for a five-minute drift machine.

So, just to quantify this - has anyone ever measued the spring rate of the D50 uncut front springs that you are speaking of?
Byron

[okayfine]

I have, yes. Documented here:

DQ 9.2 - Tech How-To: Dodge D50 Coil Springs -- Dodge D50 front coil springs are commonly suggested for use in the rear of a 510 sedan. DQ documents one specific D50 spring for length, rate, and resulting ride height.

The D50 was produced over a number of years with a number of drivetrain configurations. In the article quoted above I specify the part number I used to obtain the ride heights and spring rates described.

[maldat]

It was a nice day outside, and since I'm giving some thought about changing the ride height, I figured I'd take a couple of photos.

The rear end is really too low. I know that some people like the smammed look, but I'm actually bottoming out on hard acceleration. My rear sway bar and exhaust are taking a POUNDING on the pavement.

So, I know there's a lot of resources on how to LOWER (lowering springs, cutting springs, etc.), but apart from swapping out springs, is there a simple way to raise the car? At least, as a temporary solution until I get my hand on some springs? Also, I know that with the front struts, lowering the car may involve shortening the strut. Is there a rear-analog to this? Ie., apart from the springs, is there anything else that may have been done to the rear end to lower the car that I should look at before proceeding?

ITS NOT TOO LOW , YOUR SPRINGS ARE TOO SOFT..

A lot of good people on here will give you very good advise to fix your car..

But .. If you got a set of springs for a C110 or a C111 (skyline, 240KGT)from Japan and then cut them down as they are way too long but right outer size. you will have your car sitting the same as it is now but with no body roll and no bum drop on take off..

Get the C110 front struts as well they are about 200mm shorter than 510 legs and have bigger wheel bearings and bigger brakes and bolt straight in..C110 struts are 350mm long from bottom of leg to bottom of spring perch..
C110 is the heaviest datsun made with IRS also the beefest spring rate..

(from what I've found and worked with)

As above is a great factory upgrade..but you will have to do some car body work as some seams will probley open up ..mine did front and rear, but great fun..big upgrade, factory parts..carnt be beaten..

[okayfine]

ITS NOT TOO LOW , YOUR SPRINGS ARE TOO SOFT..

Without knowing what the OP has, there's no way to come to that conclusion. OP has also stated his car is too low, so regardless of rate he wants to raise it up. It is likely the OP has cut stock springs, in which case it is too low and too soft, but, again...

There are plenty of good domestic sources for rear springs, again depending on the desired rate. Attempting to source JDM parts is probably not worth the effort. A spring is a spring, find the OD/ID, length, and rate and that's all you need.

[maldat]

ITS NOT TOO LOW , YOUR SPRINGS ARE TOO SOFT..

Without knowing what the OP has, there's no way to come to that conclusion. OP has also stated his car is too low, so regardless of rate he wants to raise it up. It is likely the OP has cut stock springs, in which case it is too low and too soft, but, again...

There are plenty of good domestic sources for rear springs, again depending on the desired rate. Attempting to source JDM parts is probably not worth the effort. A spring is a spring, find the OD/ID, length, and rate and that's all you need.

Sorry forgot you didnt get that model, havnt found any info in the rates of nissan springs.
Just going by the part about the rear dropping says the rear end is very soft, cut factory springs for sure.

Only big rear problems I seen with that happening with the P910T bluebird,,fitting 510 rear springs into the 910 rear struts fixed that problem.

[jovial_cynic]

From the bblist conversation, I do *not* have stock springs which have been cut, but without yanking the springs out (which I'll do as soon as my insulators arrive), I don't have a way of measuring it all out yet.

And yeah - while dragging on the ground is a concern, I also want to increase the ride height in the rear anyway. I don't prefer it to sit that low, regardless if how soft or stiff the rear suspension may be.

[okayfine]

I stopped following the BB list thread once Bob kept on his engineer-speak. FWIW, replacing even a missing isolator is not going to do much regarding ride height. It's about 1/4" thick where the spring sits. Its function is to reduce NVH.

I have a set of stock rear springs, but they don't ship cheaply. As a place holder, they'd do, but I'd advice doing the R&R once with your desired spring rate.

[jovial_cynic]

I stopped following the BB list thread once Bob kept on his engineer-speak. FWIW, replacing even a missing isolator is not going to do much regarding ride height. It's about 1/4" thick where the spring sits. Its function is to reduce NVH.

Ah, good to know about the isolator size. Timely, too - I called and had them switch out the order before sending it to me. Thanks!

Also, I was wondering why you weren't piping up on the bb-list about this topic. Interesting.

[thisismatt]

I stopped following the BB list thread once Bob kept on his engineer-speak. FWIW, replacing even a missing isolator is not going to do much regarding ride height. It's about 1/4" thick where the spring sits. Its function is to reduce NVH.

I have a set of stock rear springs, but they don't ship cheaply. As a place holder, they'd do, but I'd advice doing the R&R once with your desired spring rate.

I think you mean "engrisheer" speak, Julian. I've tried to explain multiple times to him how much of a moron he comes off as, but the simple matter of the fact is that he just likes to hear himself talk. I think he writes things illegibly the first few times just so he has more to talk about when you can't figure out wtf he's saying.

[arkitekz]

Jovial,

Did you buy those wheels recently from someone on club4ag.com? I had my eye on some that sold not too long ago. Are they 15's?

[jovial_cynic]

Jovial,

Did you buy those wheels recently from someone on club4ag.com? I had my eye on some that sold not too long ago. Are they 15's?

The seller may have had them listed a few places; I'm not familiar with club4ag. I saw an ad on ratsun from a guy who goes by "pineapple express."

[///FiveOneOh]

go buy a plastic cuttign board , use a jig saw and cut out 2 dounuts the size of your spring, cut a relief across the spacer so it can flex. place the the spacer in the CTR arm between the spring and arm.

costs about 4 bucks, works fine..just kinda ghetto but great temp solution. this is how we raised the back of tobies car when he was pounding the ground with his exhaust till new springs were srouced.