Exhaust question

Engine, Transmission and related drivetrain.
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thisismatt
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Re: Exhaust question

Post by thisismatt »

510rob wrote:
thisismatt wrote:
defdes wrote:...and solid mount it if it is not already done.
...then throw it in the trash and put in an IRS without all the problems of a lowered semi-trailing arm :P
...oh maaaaaaan! :cry:
hehehe
spoolinitup33 wrote:
510rob wrote: If the exhaust touches the crossmember, at all, even in the slightest bit, it will cause no end of NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) problems on the highway.
How is the exhaust pipe not going to touch the crossmember if it's going through the middle of it?
By using a piece of pipe through the crossmember with a larger ID than the OD of your exhaust pipe. Which is why people put in a 4" piece of pipe so that they have ample room around the exhaust for it to move around a bit without contacting the crossmember.
I'm your huckleberry.
510rob
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Re: Exhaust question

Post by 510rob »

spoolinitup33 wrote:
510rob wrote: If the exhaust touches the crossmember, at all, even in the slightest bit, it will cause no end of NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) problems on the highway.
How is the exhaust pipe not going to touch the crossmember if it's going through the middle of it?
Have you ever played the game "Operation"?
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defdes
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Re: Exhaust question

Post by defdes »

510rob wrote:
spoolinitup33 wrote:
510rob wrote: If the exhaust touches the crossmember, at all, even in the slightest bit, it will cause no end of NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) problems on the highway.
How is the exhaust pipe not going to touch the crossmember if it's going through the middle of it?
Have you ever played the game "Operation"?
"If you touch the sides...."BEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHH!""
Datsunnismo
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Re: Exhaust question

Post by Datsunnismo »

I just did the 4" mod to my rear crossmember....
Datsunnismo wrote:Well this weekend i got a little bit done. My weekends have been crazy busy.
I started the rear crossmember.
Step One: Modification for 3 inch exhaust.

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So what i did was find a Pipe with an inner diameter of 4 inches. Fortunately i had this laying around from when i did my last rear crossmember.

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So first thing I had to do was remove the old exhaust hanger bracket.

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I used a 4 1/4 inch hole saw set.

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I welded some square tubing into the existing whole. Then i just centered my hole saw and marked it and sawed away.

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then cleaned it up and tacked.

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then finally welded.

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It came out decent, im happy with it.
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rnorrish
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Re: Exhaust question

Post by rnorrish »

Datsunnismo wrote:I just did the 4" mod to my rear crossmember....
Datsunnismo wrote:Well this weekend i got a little bit done. My weekends have been crazy busy.
I started the rear crossmember.

Image

It came out decent, im happy with it.
and that is now the strongest part of the car!

great work. great step-by-step.
richard norrish
'68 'goon resto / '71 ice racer / '72 'goon project / '70 4-door rust pile / '67 520 project
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spoolinitup33
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Re: Exhaust question

Post by spoolinitup33 »

Gotcha. For some reason I was thinking the exhaust going through the crossmember would be a tight fit, idk why. And Datsunismo, thanks for the post, that will help a lot.
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S15DET
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Re: Exhaust question

Post by S15DET »

I also used 4" thin-wall exhaust tubing. Then I ended up running all 2 1/2" exhaust, plenty of flow for my target HP numbers, stock-ish boost on a stock-ish SR. Don't forget that it's good to install a flex section in the downpipe to remove the stress from the turbine and manifold bolts.
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