- The power unit is out of a (HN11S) Suzuki Kei, I think late 90's to early 2000, this is a small yellow plate (less than 550cc engine size) car in Japan.
- I stripped the unit of all the junk and left only the motor and shaft, cut off the original mounting brackets and key assembly.
- Icehouse sent me a spare late model (collapsible) column and I removed the inner shaft and cut it short, all I needed was the bottom section with the u-joint that mounts to the steering box, I have an H510 box in my car.
- I trimmed the collar that mounts the original shaft in the car so it would fit around the EPS unit, just kind of notched the sides. I don't have a pic of this...sorry, and made a brace for one side to keep the unit from twisting under torque.
- I mocked up the install and figured out how long to cut the spare shaft to it would mate up with the EPS U-joint, first I had to check that I had enough shaft for the steering wheel, turn signal switch and original column cover to fit, then removed the EPS unit and welded the cut shaft end to the EPS U-joint. It would have been better to have the correct splines cut in this end, but I just found it easier to weld it in the U-joint.
- once that was done, I installed it all in the car, and installed the key switch, turn signal switch and column cover, I had to trim out or clearance the signal switch a little to get it to fit over the EPS shaft as was the case with the key switch too, but I have and ealry model key switch it's a little smaller than the collapsible key switch assy.
- I didn't cut an opening for the wheel lock pin in the EPS column, just didn't feel the need to have the wheel lock.
- then I drove it for about 6 to 8 months with no power, so without power it drives like a normal hard to steer 510.
- next I sourced a speed signal generator, this one is used for older cars that want to have navigation install, it screws to the end of the speed o cable and then into the transmission, this sends the signal to the EPS to work less the faster the car goes.
- next I set about trying to figure out the power, it has a constant 30A positive connection and a standard ground, a trigger 12v switched. this was easy....the hard part was the RPM signal to tell the EPS unit that the car is running.
-RPM signal: not sure what type it is, but it's a 12v pulse of some type, so I found a guy selling a signal generator for this type installation, it wasn't cheap at about $100.00 but it worked. I had previously tried everything, on the SR ECU, and the cars tach signal too, from the coils and everything, just no joy, later I found that the relay I was using was bad, that's another story....but I got that figured out and the $100.00 black box works.
So, in short this is the costs I incurred over the project:
-EPS unit = $100
-RPM signal generator = $100
-suzuki steering wheel boss (hub)= $25.00
-wiring harness = $20.00
-research (wasted money on spare units and EPS ECU's that I thought I fried in the process = $200.00
-spare original steering shaft $100.00??? cant remember if or what I paid Jeff for this or not??
So this can be had for cheap now that I know how to do it.....
