Electronic ignition - what's the best option
Electronic ignition - what's the best option
Hello all, we would like to convert our '73 Datsun 510 over to electronic ignition. What's the best recommendation?
Pertronix does not have an option for the dual points - has anyone purchased and installed their complete distributor with success?
What other options are recommended?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Alex
Pertronix does not have an option for the dual points - has anyone purchased and installed their complete distributor with success?
What other options are recommended?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
Alex
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Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
Do a search for matchbox or dizzy this will get you started.
1972 4dr 510 (Turbo KA24E build in progress)
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Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
The easiest is the '79 L20B distributors on all cars and trucks, the last being the '80 720 trucks (with L20B motor) the '80 S10 200sx and the '80 A10 (later HL510) Both the S10 and the A10 have the Z20 motor but the EI dizzy will work on the L series motors. All had the EI distributors and it is a bolt in swap with a few adjustments.
Two things if you find one, be absolutely sure you unbolt it from the timing cover (2 X 10mm bolts) and keep the base pedestal with it, and be sure to get the matching coil. If you use your old coil and ballast resistor you won't be able to take advantage of the higher voltage output. There are only two wires to connect to it.
Look for 4 plug wires and a small black box on the side.
Under the cap will look like this...
Two things if you find one, be absolutely sure you unbolt it from the timing cover (2 X 10mm bolts) and keep the base pedestal with it, and be sure to get the matching coil. If you use your old coil and ballast resistor you won't be able to take advantage of the higher voltage output. There are only two wires to connect to it.
Look for 4 plug wires and a small black box on the side.
Under the cap will look like this...
"Nissan 'shit the bed' when they made these, plain and simple." McShagger510 on flattop SUs
Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
You can also find a L20Bish single point dizzy and convert that with Pertronix if you can't find the OE EI.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
Threadjack...datzenmike wrote:
My dizzy does not have that little "always grounded" terminal. The car runs, but timing is a little inconsistent. Might this be the cause? It just gets a body ground?
Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
Body ground, check. But it doesn't have to be right there. I usually run an eyelet sandwiched between the black box and the dizzy body, then run to a good ground on the block.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
I have a question, not to jack this thread but it relates.....I just installed the EI dizzy from a S10 200sx, 1980. got it in the L16 motor and it's running fine, when I drive it, it seems to have low performance then after a few seconds something "kicks in" and it just takes off good.. Could this just be a carb/fuel problem?, or do I need to do something else after the install? I used the wires off the 200sx and the plug, wired them to the coil that I also got off the 200sx, I used the black/white stripe wire from the ignition that originally went to the resistor thing (white bar with a thin coiled wire) and connected it straight to the + on the coil.
When I set the timing to what I think is about 12 deg, my L16 has the pointer on the block with 5 notches on the crank pully, I tried to unplug the vacuum line to the canister on the dizzy and the motor just dies. I was reading the DQ article and it talks about advance curve, which I don't really know much about. So I'm wondering what, if anything is wrong. I also read that I should re-gap the plugs to .041 to take advantage of the hotter spark, I'll try that later too. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Also, a big thank you to DatzenMike for posting the EI dizzy reference info, had I not seen that I would have walked right by the car in the junk yard and not thought twice about checking it.
When I set the timing to what I think is about 12 deg, my L16 has the pointer on the block with 5 notches on the crank pully, I tried to unplug the vacuum line to the canister on the dizzy and the motor just dies. I was reading the DQ article and it talks about advance curve, which I don't really know much about. So I'm wondering what, if anything is wrong. I also read that I should re-gap the plugs to .041 to take advantage of the hotter spark, I'll try that later too. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
Also, a big thank you to DatzenMike for posting the EI dizzy reference info, had I not seen that I would have walked right by the car in the junk yard and not thought twice about checking it.
- bertvorgon
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Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
In my opinion, be careful with the wide plug gap...if you get some missing, set at a lower gap, .032 - .035.
We had a club member this past drive, who had some missing and other problems, turned out his plugs where way too wide.
I have found that our dizzy's work best in that gap range.
We had a club member this past drive, who had some missing and other problems, turned out his plugs where way too wide.
I have found that our dizzy's work best in that gap range.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Keith Law
1973 2 Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer
Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
Also be sure to check the mechanical advance is working property. There is a plastic retainer that holds three small ball bearings that cracks and won't allow the advance plate to move freely.
Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
This may also be an issue. The vac line should connect to the ported vacuum on the carb. That should have no vac signal at idle, i.e. closed. If it's open at idle, then you're adding in the vac advance at idle/off idle.goichi1 wrote:I tried to unplug the vacuum line to the canister on the dizzy and the motor just dies.
As suggested above, I'd verify proper mech advance operation, and also make sure your vac cannister arm moves and that it will hold a vacuum.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
Cool! good to know, thanks and I will check all this out. I think the vac line is coming from the base plate on the manifold. So I'll see if I can find the right one to connect it to. Thanks again!!
Also, there is a valve looking thing mounted on the left strut tower that has a fuel line going to it, it then routes to the bottom of the breather to a port, fuel is coming up and entering the breather, if I tap on it sometimes it spits fuel out....strange....
Also, there is a valve looking thing mounted on the left strut tower that has a fuel line going to it, it then routes to the bottom of the breather to a port, fuel is coming up and entering the breather, if I tap on it sometimes it spits fuel out....strange....
Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
I have a dual point distributor and I just thought I would resurrect this thread to see if there is anything new on this subject.
ice D
ice D
Re: Electronic ignition - what's the best option
Large-cap L20B points distributors are still preferred, to reduce any instance of cross arching. Depends on if you have a problem or not. Would also recommend looking at the advance curve and adjusting if necessary, since you'll have it somewhat apart.
Factory EI has always worked, though, and would remain my recommendation.
Factory EI has always worked, though, and would remain my recommendation.
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson