The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up.

Only the most active and interesting projects from our members. Projects must be approved to be in this forum
User avatar
two_68_510s
Supporter
Posts: 3668
Joined: 18 Apr 2010 11:20
Location: Ben Lomond California
Contact:

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby two_68_510s » 26 Aug 2013 07:56

From the rules.....

"There are two exemptions from the annual vehicle inspection: 1) Vehicles less than six months old and with less than 5,000 kilometres. 2) Vehicles driven by first time participants.

Yay! Off the hook....except for the on the spot inspection.
Joel

2 '68 510 2 door sedans
'95 240SX
74 Jensen Healey

“We will either find a way, or make one.” – Hannibal

User avatar
okayfine
Supporter
Posts: 14128
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 23:02
Location: Newbury Park, CA

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby okayfine » 26 Aug 2013 08:36

#2 would seem highly illogical (to me).
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson

User avatar
bertvorgon
Supporter
Posts: 10018
Joined: 04 Aug 2003 20:45
Location: White Rock, B.C. Canada

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby bertvorgon » 26 Aug 2013 17:10

I'm just waiting for Byron to give us the run down on the real B.S. factor, or, it could just be the cat's delight.

I'm such a weather guy..IE...I did my racing in the rain many years ago, that their cancellation policy is 1 week, so if it pours with rain.......250.00 bucks is a huge wash in my opinion, and, Mission is lined with concrete, not my idea of fun in the rain, I'm just a wimp now I guess.
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11684
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby Byron510 » 22 Sep 2013 22:21

Wow, I sure have a lot of updating to do...

So going back to our last run though the Cascades earlier in the summer, the Bronze developed a clutch issue, lost a bit of pedal pressure and she started slipping on the way home on the harder pulls. That progressed into slipping at medium load as we got closer to home...
Fault... dead PP! - Cracked and sprung.
There really hasn't been much excessive abuse for this to occur, and I thought about it for some time, while scuffing the surface of the flywheel down. Then it dawned on me that my low ratio Tilton pedal bax could be the problem. For the braked you trade off effort and feel for pedal travel - OK for race cars, but I have to admit it sucks on the street. You need both legs and your left hand to slow the damn thing down on cold brakes. But for the clutch, it means that I am traveling the slave cyl further than the stock MC and pedal combo would have. There for I may be over extending the diaphragm. The fix is either a smaller MC on the pedal box, or a larger slave cyl on the transmission.

The smaller masters right across the pedal box is something I've wanted to do for some time as I have zero pedal feel. I can't even feel it when a front wheel locks up - no pedal drop at all!

Anyways, some photos of the broken clutch...

Byron
Attachments
DSC09384 (Small).JPG
DSC09384 (Small).JPG (41.65 KiB) Viewed 2379 times
DSC09387 (Small).JPG
DSC09387 (Small).JPG (52.37 KiB) Viewed 2379 times
DSC09405 (Small).JPG
DSC09405 (Small).JPG (47.14 KiB) Viewed 2379 times
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11684
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby Byron510 » 22 Sep 2013 22:24

Notice some changes in the design of the new Nissan clutch plate - also plastic parts and fewer (larger) springs are now utilized. Hope they stand up to the same abuse the old ones always did. Also this clutch disc must have been a tsunami special. But since the rust wasn’t very deep, I felt it was not an issue.

Also, a shot of the world’s best alignment tool . Some 4 speed donated itself to this cause years ago, it's been used on many a 510 since.

Byron
Attachments
DSC09396 (Small).JPG
DSC09396 (Small).JPG (48.1 KiB) Viewed 2379 times
DSC09397 (Small).JPG
DSC09397 (Small).JPG (58.47 KiB) Viewed 2379 times
DSC09409 (Small).JPG
DSC09409 (Small).JPG (46.52 KiB) Viewed 2379 times
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11684
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby Byron510 » 22 Sep 2013 22:44

The following weekend, it was time to address the rear wheel bearing on the driver’s side. Again on out last cruise, you could hear it making noise on right handers that was not present on left handers. There was also a little more play, so time to get at 'er.

I procured the bearings at a local bearing house. Originally I bought bearings though an auto parts store, but the same SKF bearings though a bearing supplier (Kaman) were less than half the cost. I also ordered a nut shaft nut through Southside, and I was ready to tackle this project.

I removed the CV joint, and noticed that the stub shaft nut was not peaned over - bonus I guess. I brought home a 4:1 torque multiplier and an appropriate 27mm 3/4" drive socket. The nut came off with very little effort this way. Years ago when I worked for the navy (early 90's) I machined up some tools to remove the bearings from the control arm without damaging them (only pressing on the outer race), I think this was only the 3rd time I've utilized these tools. At any rate the bearings were out in no time. I had to make an extension to the arms on the puller to make that one work (photo of the mod bleow) - and of course this bearing could never be removed this way and reused. But I was replacing them anyways, so it didn't matter.

I did machine up a tube to tape the new bearing onto the shaft with, pressing only on the inner race - a piece of 1 1/2" X .120 DOM worked prefect for sizing. I was going to heat up the bearing, but I was running low on oxy/act so press on was the method.
Also, when utilizing the 6206 – 2RS1/C3 bearing, you need to remove the inner seals from the bearings on the side which will face each other. This allows the grease you pack into the hub to lubricate the bearing over its life. Some guys don’t do this, but if my bearing went 40 years this factory way, that sounds good enough for me. Here’s the tool I used, the seal popped right off.
Attachments
DSC09755 (Small).JPG
DSC09755 (Small).JPG (48.63 KiB) Viewed 2378 times
DSC09753 (Small).JPG
DSC09753 (Small).JPG (48.03 KiB) Viewed 2378 times
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11684
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby Byron510 » 22 Sep 2013 22:53

I'd also received from Todd at Wolf Creek another set of CV joints with less play in them. The joints that came with my CV kit have slightly undersize bearings to allow for greater angularity but inherently have some play in the joint. Todd explained to me that the tighter joints were "only" good for 200 HP. Well, that's just not an issue, so I preferred the tighter joints to eliminate the noise and harshness with the LSD.
Since I had the one CV off, I decided that now was the time to change them all. Well I'm happy to say that the axles are much better now…much, much better. Not only is the noise cut down, but I don’t get the wind up and release when the LSD does its thing. I'm quite happy with the package as it sits. I recommend this kit as a plug and play package for those not wanting to build their own sets. CV numbers below. The EMPI N5 joint is the one that came off, the other PN went on. More on this later with a track day write up.
Attachments
DSC09756 (Small).JPG
DSC09756 (Small).JPG (40.96 KiB) Viewed 2375 times
DSC09757 (Small).JPG
DSC09757 (Small).JPG (35.38 KiB) Viewed 2375 times
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

goichi1
Supporter
Posts: 4021
Joined: 22 Jan 2008 21:57
Location: Oak harbor, WA 98277
Contact:

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby goichi1 » 23 Sep 2013 14:19

I use a kit very similar to this one, works very well and if you do it right they look new again. Technique varies between people, but I start with the grit that will remove the worst scratch, working each grit in a different direction, north to south and then east to west, no circles. continue with each grit until all the scratches are gone from the previous grit. This is why you change directions with each grit (it's easier to see that you have removed all previous sanding marks). Keep the piece wet and you can also use a detergent to make it slippery, it seems to work better that way :shock: ,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-Mesh-JB-6 ... _661wt_904

Tips: Don't leave any marks from the previous grit, if you do they will still be there when you are finished with the last polish. Use a medium density sponge under the sanding film, press just enought to get an even contact on the plastic. Plastic scratches easy enough. You'll get the hang of it pretty quick, it's a lot of sanding. DON'T try to rush it, hit each grade of sanding film, ddon't skip a grit to speed it up. It's best to use a deep sink so you can leave the water dripping on the part as you sand it, keeping it nice and wet. This also keeps your film clean.

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11684
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby Byron510 » 23 Sep 2013 15:47

Thanks Rich, I'll asume this is for the Greg Terry build - I'll look into it.
I brought home a spare lens and the plastic polishing kit to proactice on, and I'll go from there.

I'll asume a good sanding block helps to, trying ot keep the surface flat.

It's amazing when we do for a resto....

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

goichi1
Supporter
Posts: 4021
Joined: 22 Jan 2008 21:57
Location: Oak harbor, WA 98277
Contact:

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby goichi1 » 23 Sep 2013 22:29

Don't use a hard sanding block, you want the sanding film to form to the surface, so you get even contact on the lens. most lenses are curved a little, so it will sand it more even.

tr6racer21
Supporter
Posts: 306
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 10:18
Location: Richmond, VA
Contact:

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby tr6racer21 » 30 Jan 2014 18:22

Byron,

Been following the Bronze for several years now. Great well done project and a wealth of knowledge passed on in the thread for the rest of us.

Going back a bit to page 48 I had a question as to why you went back to the stock type front end steering equipment, and gave up on being able to bump steer the front end with the heim jointed steering tie rods and knuckles. Is there less road noise or NVH with the stock stuff? What is your current ride height at the crossmember...and more importantly what is the angle of your LCA's at rest. Have you still retained the adjustable LCA's and T/C rods?

Thanks

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11684
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby Byron510 » 06 Apr 2014 23:58

TR6....I completely missed your post some how.

The stock tie rods went in simply because it's one less illegal item on the car as far as a vehicle inspection goes. Here in BC our illustrious motor vehicle act wrote in a number of years ago a section which is very open to interpretation and would lead all but the best to conclude that any spherical joint which is not OEM is suspect and condemned accordingly.
Basically we can thank the bloody Chinese knock off crap and the idiots dumb enough to install them on cars leading to failures for this wonderful legislation.
It's certainly not the only spherical bearing in the car, as nearly every single pivot and mounting point on my car is a spherical bushed, but it's an obvious one and it was a place to start as they had a few miles on them.

The bump steer spacers are still in the car, as are the adjustable LCA'S.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

User avatar
Byron510
Moderator
Posts: 11684
Joined: 01 Jul 2003 23:06
Location: Maple Ridge, BC

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby Byron510 » 07 Apr 2014 00:13

I put insurance on the Bronze today, gave it a much needed wash from sitting all winter. I made a huge error last fall, I left brake dust from the Wilwood Polymatrix pads on the front rims after these gotten wet. It's completely etched into the clearcoat on the relatively new VTO's I bought from Dave. These bloody rate ingredients brake pads. I'll be honest, I've just about had enough of so called "racing" gear. The calipers suck as far as design and engineering are concerned , the pads suck correct street use. You guys that have adapted well engineered OEM calipers are way further ahead for street use. Obviously I have more work to do in the future.

And my LD16 is reading E-4, meaning that either the O2 sensor packed it in, the cable is damaged or there is an issue at the plug to the controller. Great. Park the car for the winter and out come the gremlins.

On top of the above, it won't idle, nor would it do any steady state cruising. Had I thought about it for a few minutes, no O2, we'll I'd better disable the closed loop function....

So I guess I have a few things to add to the spring nut and bolt check on the Bronze. UT it was good to hear the car again. Even running poorly at times, it still puts a smile on my face.

Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.

User avatar
bertvorgon
Supporter
Posts: 10018
Joined: 04 Aug 2003 20:45
Location: White Rock, B.C. Canada

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby bertvorgon » 07 Apr 2014 05:33

Sorry that happened Byron!

After skimming around under my car...and this is AFTER power washing the thing in the fall...I cannot believe how much road salt/grime we got on that last drive, specially on that Logan lake section. This stuff is too hard on our cars now, and, I'm like you when it comes to the stupid race stuff on street cars. With no seals on the calipers, at least on my fronts, I worry about how much corrosion I got on the pistons. There is fine sand in all the nooks and crannies, where I did not get into with power washing. I know there was a salt component to that too, as Matt commented a few times on the snowy section, how it was built up on the side of the road. I did pull the wheels off and washed them separately, and let them dry in the sun, so they seemed to survive ok.

Those Wilwoods were the early copy of the JFZ Mini GN ones and I never liked how they opened up on braking, just too flexy. I'm trying some new brake pad coming up, and if they dust at all...they are out of there.

I'm going back to being my usual whiny self and not leaving if it is not 100% weather window.

Maybe you have corrosion in that plug......?
"Racing makes heroin addiction look like a vague wish for something salty" - Peter Egan

Keith Law
1973 2Door Slalom/hill climb/road race / canyon carver /Giant Killer 510
1968 Vintage 3HP Mini Bike
1971 Vintage 13' BOLER trailer

510rob
Moderator
Posts: 4575
Joined: 09 Oct 2003 23:37
Location: Vancouver, BC
Contact:

Re: The Bronze - '69er Resto Project and continuing build-up

Postby 510rob » 07 Apr 2014 15:00

Is it not possible to get OEM style street braking material bonded/riveted to a Wilwood type backing plate?


Return to “Featured Project Builds”



Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest