Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Thanks for posting the part numbers.
Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Thanks very much
Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Before I got side tracked a few weeks ago with 280ZX suspension development (which is also still progressing), house mods at Christmas, and a wiring expedition on this car (also still an ongoing project) – I was working on upgrading the heater assembly.
As Mike pointed out, making sure the valve opens, and that the rest of the cooling system is up to the task, I have concluded that the original 68 heater needed replacement if I am to continue fair weather use this winter with the car (no snow days and as few rainy days as possible). I can appreciate the rather cool look of the 68 small heaters – which I believe is the same “preferred” one used in the Coupes. However, that heater assembly as delivered in 68 just doesn’t cut it, no matter how you slice it. So a donor heater was pressed into action. I have to thank Mike Yarn for pulling this assembly out of a wasp infested 69 sedan a number of years back – Mike I probably still owe you something for this!
A photo below is what the “new” heater looked like inside – pretty scary, but everything looked in working order. The core was boiled out extra long at a local rad shop – just to be sure it was going to be good. A pressure test gave the old original core a clean bill of health so I felt it was good to continue with the project…
As Mike pointed out, making sure the valve opens, and that the rest of the cooling system is up to the task, I have concluded that the original 68 heater needed replacement if I am to continue fair weather use this winter with the car (no snow days and as few rainy days as possible). I can appreciate the rather cool look of the 68 small heaters – which I believe is the same “preferred” one used in the Coupes. However, that heater assembly as delivered in 68 just doesn’t cut it, no matter how you slice it. So a donor heater was pressed into action. I have to thank Mike Yarn for pulling this assembly out of a wasp infested 69 sedan a number of years back – Mike I probably still owe you something for this!
A photo below is what the “new” heater looked like inside – pretty scary, but everything looked in working order. The core was boiled out extra long at a local rad shop – just to be sure it was going to be good. A pressure test gave the old original core a clean bill of health so I felt it was good to continue with the project…
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Love people and use things,
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because the opposite never works.
Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Fast fwd a month or so, and I finally got down to blasting the paint off the sheet metal parts, and repainting everything. The motor and the core got the treatment as well.
It was a bit cold in the shop, so 2000 watts of light did the heating in a radiant fashion – worked well! And somehow that 16/3 extension cord did not melt…must have been due to the low ambient temps!
It was a bit cold in the shop, so 2000 watts of light did the heating in a radiant fashion – worked well! And somehow that 16/3 extension cord did not melt…must have been due to the low ambient temps!
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Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.
Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Last Friday I took pleasure in assembling the new unit, aside for the obvious new paint, all seals were also replaced. On the room air flap, I initially placed a layer of 3/8X1/8” thick foam rubber tape around the perimeter, but I needed to double this up to make the right installed height for a good seal. The foam tape is regular hardware store variety, seems to have a very good adhesive on it.
I had to get a bit inventive for the seal between the air box to heater assemble joint. This circle entry into the heater core required me cutting many pie shaped cuts into the tape as shown below, this allowed me to make a circle out of the tape itself as it does not like to bend at all. Here I used 3/8X3/16 foam tape.
Just a note, on the fire wall, square side of the air box I needed to place two layers of 3/16” thick foam tape to make a good air tight seal against the fire wall.
The last photo in this post shows the highly technical, supper precision resistors for the low and medium fan speeds…
I had to get a bit inventive for the seal between the air box to heater assemble joint. This circle entry into the heater core required me cutting many pie shaped cuts into the tape as shown below, this allowed me to make a circle out of the tape itself as it does not like to bend at all. Here I used 3/8X3/16 foam tape.
Just a note, on the fire wall, square side of the air box I needed to place two layers of 3/16” thick foam tape to make a good air tight seal against the fire wall.
The last photo in this post shows the highly technical, supper precision resistors for the low and medium fan speeds…
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Love people and use things,
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because the opposite never works.
Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
The outgoing 68 assembly and the incoming 69 assembly for comparison…
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Love people and use things,
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Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
There are quite a few differences/ I use the 68 switch assembly as it worked fine without modification; the 68 unit is pictured on the left and below the 69 unit. However 69 heater ducts were "borrowed" until I can find another serviceable pair - differences shown below with the 68 ones also on the left…
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Love people and use things,
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Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
And the final installation is below. The later assembly is certainly bigger, and I would agree that the earlier unit does have more aesthetic appeal. However on my drive home, with the ambient temperature only a degree or two above freezing, I am REALLY appreciating the amount of heat flowing from this later heater unit. The performance without the fan is incredible. The addition of the squirrel cage fan itself feels like the air flow is 10 fold in volume. Previously you could barely feel air movement out of the core over the tunnel, and now it blows air past your hand. I enjoyed the familiar baking of the right calf on the drive home with the heater on full. And for anyone who drove a 510 in the winter, you know exactly what I mean
So with this heater assembly installed, all rubber hoses in the heating system have been replaced, and I have good heat in the car. Now let’s bring on spring so I don’t need it any more
Byron
So with this heater assembly installed, all rubber hoses in the heating system have been replaced, and I have good heat in the car. Now let’s bring on spring so I don’t need it any more
Byron
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Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
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Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
byron does this mean you have the defrost hoses for the 68 box that you wont be useing. i could really use these for the 68 i will be reassembling soon.
Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
In some applications you might find that the closed cell foam is too resiliant and pushes stuff apart or doesn't make a good seal so you can also use the open cell foam tape. Home Depot carries both - the open celled was white when I got mine. I used a lot of the open celled stuff rebuilding the climate control on the 280ZXT (and a few placed with the closed cell) - blew like a hurricane after that treatmentByron510 wrote:Last Friday I took pleasure in assembling the new unit, aside for the obvious new paint, all seals were also replaced. On the room air flap, I initially placed a layer of 3/8X1/8” thick foam rubber tape around the perimeter, but I needed to double this up to make the right installed height for a good seal. The foam tape is regular hardware store variety, seems to have a very good adhesive on it.
I had to get a bit inventive for the seal between the air box to heater assemble joint. This circle entry into the heater core required me cutting many pie shaped cuts into the tape as shown below, this allowed me to make a circle out of the tape itself as it does not like to bend at all. Here I used 3/8X3/16 foam tape.
Just a note, on the fire wall, square side of the air box I needed to place two layers of 3/16” thick foam tape to make a good air tight seal against the fire wall.
The last photo in this post shows the highly technical, supper precision resistors for the low and medium fan speeds…
Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
I made a run for the border in 'Ole Blue early this morning, fittingly, to pick up the spare diff Julian sold and shipped to me. BTW Julian - awesome job on the shipping crate, a complete A++ for effort there, worked awesome; picture below for the rest of us. And I also put in the 5th tank of gas this year while across the line, and was back in the homeland by 8am, happily on my way to the workshop. Didn’t see Paul at Peace Arch, but I asked.
‘Ole Blue passed a neat milestone just before reaching the workshop, mileage => 39393.9 miles. Should have taken a photo, had a good chuckle at any rate.
It was a cool morning up here in the Pacific North West; I'm sure liking that later model leg cooker I installed, works pretty darn well.
And since I was feeling energetic - a bit - I pulled her into this shop, dried off the windows and applied a nice coat of Rain-X on the windshield. It would have been nice to have some for the trip this morning; it'll be there for next time. Also the back window as in a bed need of a clean. It was looking a bit hazy the last couple months in the rear view, but I actually had a black cloth in my hand after wiping it down… can we say a bit over due! Funny how these things creep up on you
And lastly, James dropped by the other night with the Big Bopper car - very cool. Light was fading fast when I took this shot, but you get the drift. Thanks for coming by James, very cool car to say the least.
Byron
‘Ole Blue passed a neat milestone just before reaching the workshop, mileage => 39393.9 miles. Should have taken a photo, had a good chuckle at any rate.
It was a cool morning up here in the Pacific North West; I'm sure liking that later model leg cooker I installed, works pretty darn well.
And since I was feeling energetic - a bit - I pulled her into this shop, dried off the windows and applied a nice coat of Rain-X on the windshield. It would have been nice to have some for the trip this morning; it'll be there for next time. Also the back window as in a bed need of a clean. It was looking a bit hazy the last couple months in the rear view, but I actually had a black cloth in my hand after wiping it down… can we say a bit over due! Funny how these things creep up on you
And lastly, James dropped by the other night with the Big Bopper car - very cool. Light was fading fast when I took this shot, but you get the drift. Thanks for coming by James, very cool car to say the least.
Byron
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Love people and use things,
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Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Ha! The diff looks to have survived the UPS trip unscathed. How is that possible?!
Because when you spend a silly amount of money on a silly, trivial thing that will help you not one jot, you are demonstrating that you have a soul and a heart and that you are the sort of person who has no time for Which? magazine. – Jeremy Clarkson
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Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Easily!! It was crated like a spend Radiated fuel bundle. Ok well not even close but you could have dropped that a few times off the Brown truck with no problems Nice package,,ingokayfine wrote:Ha! The diff looks to have survived the UPS trip unscathed. How is that possible?!
"Lastnight the wife said oh boy when your dead you can't take nothing with you but your soul oh "Think"
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Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Interesting, I always thought old blue's heater was outstanding, never felt like it wasn't adequate.....probably have a bunch of stuff in the heater core making it less
efficient.
I'm kind of disappointed, I thought old blue was going to be restored to original...it's far too rare around here to be performing upgrades for the sake of upgrading....but it's not my car anymore so what can I say really.....just kind of bummed I guess.
efficient.
I'm kind of disappointed, I thought old blue was going to be restored to original...it's far too rare around here to be performing upgrades for the sake of upgrading....but it's not my car anymore so what can I say really.....just kind of bummed I guess.
Denis Gagné
AKA VGwagon
69 510 VG30e swapped
73 240z VG30et swapped
86 300zx na2t VG30et converted
AKA VGwagon
69 510 VG30e swapped
73 240z VG30et swapped
86 300zx na2t VG30et converted
Re: Byron's 1968 L13-3 on the Tree L510
Don't worry Denis - I'm keeping the original heater core, and it will go back in the car. the heat was ok from the original core, it was the lack of air movement that was the real issue. Two people get in on a cool rainy day, and the windows are fogged solid with no chance of recovery with the stock 68 core. The 70+ one has no issue at all - and it's especially good at cooking your right calf!vgwagon wrote:Interesting, I always thought old blue's heater was outstanding, never felt like it wasn't adequate.....probably have a bunch of stuff in the heater core making it less
efficient.
I'm kind of disappointed, I thought old blue was going to be restored to original...it's far too rare around here to be performing upgrades for the sake of upgrading....but it's not my car anymore so what can I say really.....just kind of bummed I guess.
I don't intend on modifying much on this car, and I've worked to preserve it in stock form. That will always be in intention. The heater though became a safety issue.
I do want to get the body work done in a big way, and then I can get collector plates for it. But not until the Greg Terry car is finished...
Byron
Love people and use things,
because the opposite never works.
because the opposite never works.